Edie MacKenzie

Edie MacKenzie is a published author, traveler, dog lover, and tortoise enthusiast. Passionate about what she does, her books provide peopel a firm grounding in the dog breed and their unique characteristics with a nice touch of humor.

Did You Know Your Dog Would Love A Massage?

May 30, 2010 by admin Leave a Comment

Every culture that allows domestic pets teaches its members ways to relate physically with those pets. In some countries, dogs live a dog’s life, and are rarely held or petted. We’ve noticed that some German dogs that we import do not seem to like our “American” way of petting. After investigation with our German contacts, we have learned that Germans have a slightly different approach to their dogs. They pet and stroke them in a different way and in different places than do many Americans. In our culture, petting a dog is very important. Most people tend to pet dogs around the head and shoulder regions and stop there. Others literally trounce their dogs, pounding their sides and ruffling their fur.

Sometimes there is little method to the physical display. The dog is expected to “take it” whether or not it is the kind of physical affection it enjoys. Few dog owners stop to read their dog’s needs and desires. A dog owner may find that the dog does not enjoy being petted – if by petting we mean rough jostling or pounding. Instead, like many humans, they greatly
enjoy a more extended type of body contact – a kind of massage.

Massage can be a beneficial technique when used as an aid to relaxation. The first principle of dog massage is to stop thinking of your dog solely from the shoulders up. Contact can be made with almost any part of the dog’s body if it is sensitive contact. Skilled veterinarians know this from treating unapproachable patients. They often have to devise creative ways of lifting the animal up onto an examination table, or treating injuries all over a pet’s body.

To begin a dog massage, make a list of all the areas where a given dog likes body contact. If you are the dog’s owner, you know. If you are not, ask the owner. Then list the areas where
the dog is sensitive to touch. Begin your first massage with the areas on your first list, but include one area on the second. Gradually include more “forbidden” areas as you give massages.

It’s best to begin on the head, gently massaging the eyelids, muzzle, and nose. Always keep one hand in contact with the dog during the entire massage. It’s best to have the dog in the sitting position. From the head area, work down the neck to the chest and pectoral muscle. Some dogs will automatically offer a paw. Take hold of it, but gently place it down if the dog seems to be losing balance.

Choose a leg and work up and down on it very gently. If your dog decides to lie down, you will have better access to its rear legs. Try to avoid forcing the dog down. If your dog knows the command for down, you can use it in massage work, but don’t force the issue. Make your
strokes long and firm. Try to distinguish massage from regular petting. The massage should be more extended and pliable in its movement than regular petting. Avoid all slapping, pinching, and pulling motions. These will break the mood of the massage. Many dogs will communicate quite clearly what they like and dislike.

Filed Under: Dog Health Tagged With: Body Contact, Body Massage, Different Places, Dog Massage, Dog Owner, Dog Owners, Domestic Pets, First Principle, Fur, German Dogs, Germans, Head And Shoulder, Jostling, Massage Massage, Massage Technique, Massages, Pet Dogs, Physical Affection, Relaxation, Shoulders, Veterinarians

Is Carsickness A Problem For Your Dog?

May 23, 2010 by admin Leave a Comment

Some puppies get carsick just the same as many small children do. If you depend on a car for most of your transportation, you will want to help your puppy overcome carsickness as quickly and easily as possible. You can do a number of things to help your puppy avoid or overcome carsickness.

From the start, help your puppy form a positive association with the car. Without starting the engine, sit in the car with your puppy on your lap for a few minutes every day. Praise and pet your pup. After a week of this, start the motor. Place your pup on the seat next to you. Pet and praise him, making the experience agreeable. After a week of repeating this once a day, get a friend or relative to go in the car with you for a daily ride. Be sure that your puppy has an empty stomach and has had the chance to eliminate before getting into the car. Have your helper sit the dog on his or her lap. The helper must not allow the pup to squirm and wiggle around.

Take a short ride around the block. Each week increase slightly the distance that you travel. (One-week intervals for each of these steps are not cast in stone. Shorten or lengthen the time depending on your pup’s reaction.) Be sure that when you ride with your puppy, you have someone in the car to help control him. If that’s not possible, put the puppy in a crate in the car.

Do not let your puppy ride on the driver’s lap or crawl under his or her legs. This can become a bad habit and is very dangerous. Once your puppy begins obedience training and understands to lie down and stay, employ this exercise in the car when traveling. Associate trips in the car with fun. Every car ride should not end up at the veterinarian, groomer, or boarding kennel. Use the car to take your dog to the beach, park, or woods.

Most puppies, like most children, outgrow carsickness. In the interim, doing the right things can minimize messes, limit nervousness, and shorten the time it takes for your dog to learn that car rides can be a lot of fun. If none of the above steps seems to help, contact your veterinarian. He or she can provide medical solutions, such as mild tranquilizers, that will help avert sickness when the dog must travel in the car.

Filed Under: Dog Health Tagged With: Bad Habit, Boarding Kennel, Car Ride, Car Rides, Empty Stomach, Exercise, Few Minutes, Groomer, Interim, Intervals, Legs, Messes, Nervousness, Obedience Training, Pup, Puppies, Puppy Obedience, Sit, Travel One, Veterinarian

Why Dogs Roll Around In The Dirtiest Of Things

May 20, 2010 by admin Leave a Comment

No one really knows for sure why dogs love to roll in stinky things, but people who study animal behavior have some pretty good idea. Some experts believe that dogs like to mark themselves with their territory. A dog wearing a bit of woodchuck carcass or horse poop on his neck and shoulders is a lot like a man wearing a big gold chain around his neck. It says something about him and where he lives, something like, ‘I am a dog of means; I own the territory with all this nice stuff.”

It is hard for people to understand how anyone, even a dog, could rate the value of his territory according to its riches of cow pies. This is one of those situations that illustrates how
completely different dogs and people are. People appreciate things that are clean and fresh, while dogs like things that are old and smelly.

There may be a good reason for their off-putting tastes. Since the beginning of their existence, dogs have spent their lives scrounging for food. It is possible that even the hint of a good meal triggers a sense of elation. Out of necessity, they may have developed a unique appreciation for anything that is remotely edible. A week-old carcass certainly qualifies. So does a fish washed up on shore. Even the presence of deer or cow dung suggests that there is a potential meal somewhere in the neighborhood.

Then again, there may be a simpler reason why dogs enjoy coating themselves with horrid
things, one that has nothing to do with survival and everything to do with taste. Other experts believe that they roll in dung, carcasses, and pond scum simply because they like the smell. Not just a little, but enough to want to carry it around with them, just as people enjoy dabbing themselves with their favorite perfume or cologne.

Smell is a primal sense and it is hard to account for who likes what. Just as some people enjoy the smell of cheese, dogs may revel in smells that most of us find objectionable. It is hard to criticize their tastes, because they have millions more scent receptors than we do. Our own senses of smell are barely functional compared to theirs. Therefore, It is possible that they detect pleasing odors of which people are completely unaware of .

Filed Under: Dog Health Tagged With: Animal Behavior, Carcass, Carcasses, Cheese Dogs, Cologne, Cow Dung, Cow Pies, Different Dogs, Gold Chain, Good Reason, Horse Poop, Nice Stuff, Perfume, Pond Scum, Primal Sense, Sense Of Elation, Shoulders, Stinky, Tastes, Woodchuck

4 Important Tips When Feeding Your Dog

May 13, 2010 by admin Leave a Comment

Rule 1: A dog should be fed by the same person at every feeding. This rule is not nearly as important where a couple of house pets are being fed by several members of the same family, as it is where large numbers of dogs are being fed by numerous different kennel personnel.

It is particularly applicable where dogs are in strange environments such as boarding kennels, veterinary hospitals, or show arenas. Dogs that have become accustomed to one feeder may exhibit all sorts of erratic eating behavior if that person is changed.

Rule 2: Every dog should have its own food and water container. This precaution is not only sound behavioral psychology, it also is just plain good hygiene. It is especially wise to assign food bowls on an individual basis when your feeding containers are noticeably different from one another.

Besides improved feeding technique, certain practical benefits are to be gained from following this rule.

In racing stables, for example, where maintenance of body weight is so important, feeding instructions can be written on the bottom or the side of each dog’s feeding container, right next to its name or number.

Rule 3: A dog should be fed in the same place every time it is fed. Whether it be the corner of the kitchen, beside the back-door steps, at the rear of a kennel run, or along the left-side wall of a cage, the site where the food container is placed should remain the same every day.

In fact, everything that’s done with the food container should be identical at each feeding. lf you use a push cart or wagon to carry the tub of food to the dogs, always use the same cart and tub. lf you pre-fill food bowls in the diet kitchen and carry them on the cart, don’t decide one day to carry the tub of food on the cart and fill each bowl as you reach the dog.

It may have become boring to you, but to your dog it has become the way of life. A change only serves to disrupt his way of life and to create cause for insecurity.

Rule 4: No dog should ever have its food changed without a good reason. Contrary to popular opinion, dogs do not need a change in food from time to time to keep them from growing tired of the same food all the time.

Many dogs have lived normal, healthy lives by eating the same food throughout their entire lifetimes. In many instances where a dog owner thinks a dog has gotten sick and tired of a food, the dog has just gotten sick from the food. Not so sick, perhaps, that it really showed, but sick enough to stop eating.

When a dog food is deficient, it is not uncommon for a dog eating that food to lose its appetite. Of course, nutritional deficiencies are not the only thing that will cause a dog to lose its appetite.

Filed Under: Dog Health Tagged With: All Sorts, Arenas, Back Door, Behavioral Psychology, Containers, Diet Kitchen, Dogs, Feeder, Food Bowls, Food Container, Hygiene, Insecurity, Large Numbers, Precaution, Push Cart, Racing Stables, Strange Environments, Veterinary Hospitals, Water Container, Way Of Life

Dog Care Products For The Long Haired Dog

May 10, 2010 by admin Leave a Comment

Regardless of their coat any long haired dog requires special care. Regular brushing is an essential task but there are also other products on the market which focus on long haired dogs, these products have been designed and created especially for dogs with long hair.

Shampoo and Conditioner

There are dog care products such as shampoos and conditioners that have been especially designed to control matting and tangles in long haired dogs. Both the shampoo and conditioner in most cases need to be used. The shampoo removes the grime and dirt from the hair as it acts as a cleanser while the conditioner helps to prevent tangles by smoothing the hair.

Brushes, Combs and Rakes

Some other useful items are for long haired dogs are brushes, combs and rakes they are useful in helping detangling and dematting the coat and they help prevent future tangles in the dogs hair.

Brushing is a necessary part of grooming particularly for long haired breeds. Brushing removes dust, dead skin, loose hairs, grass seeds and tangles. It also assists to shorten the coat moult, which occurs each autumn and spring.

You can find specialized brushed and combs designed to help in sorting out the dogs matted hair and tangles. The brushed have short, sharp bristles that can cover a large matted area. These products are normally used in a dog grooming saloon or by pet owners who enjoy going through the grooming process.

Hair Dryers

You may not think that a dog hair dries is a handy product to have but when regular grooming your dog its actually an essential item to have. Hair driers are a very handy when it comes to dog grooming. They allow the dogs coat to dry quickly avoiding the chance of the fur matting and tangling whilst it is still wet. Wet hair mats and tangles more quickly than dried hair.

Scissors

To remove excess hair around your dog’s eyes and ears, good grooming scissors are a necessary item. Some dogs have discharge around the eyes and the fur mats frequently in this area. Using the right dog care products for your long haired dog can ensure that your dog is more comfortable and preventing problems occurring in these areas

The right dog care product will not only help you maintaining your dogs beautiful long hair coat but will also make life easier for you. Ensure that the products are the correct ones for the hair length and size of your dog.

For more information and products to take care of your dog please visit: http://www.dogsreviewed.com

Article Source: ArticleSpan

Filed Under: Dog Health Tagged With: Bristles, Dead Skin, Excess Hair, Eyes And Ears, Grass Seeds, Grime, Hair Brushes, Hair Driers, Hair Scissors, Hair Shampoo And Conditioner, Handy Product, Long Haired Dogs, Loose Hairs, Matted Area, Moult, Rakes, Shampoo And Conditioner, Shampoos And Conditioners, Tangles, Wet Hair

Setting Good Eating Habits

May 9, 2010 by admin Leave a Comment

A dog’s eating habits are controlled by three things: its brain, its experiences, and its environment. The very first experiment in behavioral psychology was done by a scientist named Pavlov who taught dogs to get ready to eat when they heard a certain sound. Since that initial experiment, scientists have observed over and over how important the things happening around, and to, a dog are when it comes to affecting the dog’s eating habits.

Once, when dogs were wild, most of their daily activity was devoted to obtaining a meal. While the need for this activity has practically disappeared, mealtime still constitutes one of the most important events in a dog’s life. And, many of a dog’s behavioral responses are still linked to its eating routine.

Today’s dogs have become creatures of habit. They thrive on monotony and are most comfortable when things remain the same. Few dogs appreciate a sudden change in their sleeping quarters or the surprise of a new food in their bowl. The more that can be done to prevent change in a dog’s feeding program, the better it will be for both the dog and its owner. Regularity in feeding promotes good appetite, good digestion and regular eliminations. Therefore, the first general consideration to be made when feeding any dog should be the establishment of a regular feeding schedule and should stay that way without being altered.

Puppies have conventionally been fed small portions of their daily diet at frequent intervals during the day. The rationalization behind this is sound, but the frequency of feedings often is too high. Even newborn puppies do quite well when fed only four times daily. Some breeders even reduce this to three times daily, but unless your schedule absolutely prohibits it, a minimum of four feedings should be the limit. The feedings need not be separated exactly six hours apart, but it is desirable to space the feedings as evenly as possible throughout the 24-hour time period. For example, my own schedule usually works out best when I feed around 7:00 A.M., 12:00 Noon, 6:00 P.M., and 1:00 P.M. Yours may be different.

The frequency of feedings should not be reduced to three a day until the puppies are weaned. Whether you are feeding newborn puppies four times daily, or older puppies three times, once the pattern of feedings has been set, it should not be changed, but should occur at the same time every day.

Filed Under: Dog Health Tagged With: Behavioral Psychology, Behavioral Responses, Creatures Of Habit, Digestion, Eliminations, Frequent Intervals, Good Appetite, Good Eating Habits, Important Events, Initial Experiment, Mealtime, Monotony, New Food, Newborn Puppies, Pavlov, Rationalization, Regularity, Six Hours, Sudden Change, Time Period

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