Edie MacKenzie

Edie MacKenzie is a published author, traveler, dog lover, and tortoise enthusiast. Passionate about what she does, her books provide peopel a firm grounding in the dog breed and their unique characteristics with a nice touch of humor.

Feeding Your Labrador Retriever: Part 1

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Selecting the right food for your Labrador Retriever should not be a random choice, as no other decision will have a greater impact on the overall well-being of your dog. What the dog eats affects his nutrition, and nutrition directly relates to overall health and longevity. A dog’s diet should be high in protein, with an ample supply of carbohydrates, fat, vitamins, and minerals. These requirements are easily met by selecting nutritionally complete products.

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Most single-pet households purchase their Labrador Retriever food from the supermarket. Often, pet owners are swayed into trying certain brands by price, packaging, and advertising. But the most popular brands may not be the best buys for your dog.

There are three main types of dog food: canned, semi-moist, and dry; with the occasional table scraps.  Each of these used as the sole diet presents problems. A diet consisting exclusively of canned and semi-moist foods can wreak havoc with a dog’s digestive system, teeth, and gums.

Some dry foods must be taken in massive amounts to obtain all of the nutrients that are essential. And table scraps can throw a well-balanced diet right out of order. However, in spite of these pitfalls, there is no reason to despair. With a little research  such as reading the  labels and comparing and perhaps some trial and error, you should be able to work out the proper balanced diet for your Labrador Retriever.

Canned dog food should never be served as the only food. First of all, it is very high in water content (approximately 75%) and you end up paying hefty prices for little real substance. The meat used in canned food is certainly not from choice cuts, either, so do not let evasive television commercials fool you into thinking canned food is optimal.

In addition, the additives that are commonly used in canned foods, such as coloring and preservatives, are basically non digestible by the dog and can have a diuretic effect. Add this to the high water content and you will understand why a dog eating primarily canned food will have an increased need for urination and potential housebreaking problems.

However, there are some canned foods that are better for a Labrador Retriever than others, notably the ones designed for the different stages of a dog’s life. But even these should make up no more than ¼  of the Labrador Retriever daily intake and should be used in conjunction with a quality meat/meal-based dry food.
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Description Of A Labrador Retriever: Part 3

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A Labrador Retriever is either a solid black, a solid yellow, or a solid chocolate. A white spot on the chest is permissible. All the colors should have the correct double coat. The thick undercoat lies under the topcoat. The topcoat should be a bit rough to the touch and does not have to lie flat. In fact, if the coat is too slick, the dog  probably does not have a good undercoat and would not be useful as a retriever in cold waters.

The Labrador Retriever undercoat acts as insulation and, working in conjunction with the coat’s natural oil, helps to repel water. The Labrador Retriever does not feel the cold the way a single-coated dog does. Another aspect of this coat is the special look that it gives the breed.

All four legs should have good, thick bone, the front legs coming straight down from the shoulders.  The rear legs should be well bent at the knee or stifle. The hind quarters should be thick with well-muscled thighs.  The hocks should not be too long and should also be well bent and well let down (not one continuous line from buttocks to the foot). Picture about a six-inch section from the foot to the hock joint and then a little jog, toward the front, and on up to the stifle. The view from behind the dog should not be narrow but rather hefty.

The tail should be set right off the back. In other words, you should see one straight line from the withers to the tip of the tail. If the tail is set too low or if the tail is set too high, the picture will be spoiled.  As a Labrador Retriever moves, the tail usually wags happily from side to side. It should never be carried curled up over the back like a hound’s tail. A tail that is carried too low or between the legs will give the appearance of timidity.

Timidity is a word that is not in the Labrador dictionary.  This very important tail, which should not be too long (not below the hock), acts like a rudder when the dog is swimming. It is sometimes called an otter tail because it is thick at the base and tapers down to a tip, like the tail of an otter. The tail should be well covered with a very distinctive short, dense coat. The underside of the Labrador Retriever tail should never have any long feathery hair on it.

Description Of A Labrador Retriever: Part 2

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It is important for the Labrador Retriever to be well balanced. He should  not be as tall and thin as a pointer, and he should not be as short and fat as a potbellied pig. No one feature should be so prominent as to detract from the total picture. If you look at a Labrador and notice only his huge head, the dog is probably unbalanced. If you look at a Labrador and see only his big feet or a long scraggly tail,  you are probably not looking at a good specimen of the breed.

The Labrador Retriever ears should be set off the side of the skull, not too high and not too low. They should be of medium size, hanging so that the bottom tips are about two inches below the eyes. The ears should not be so big or so small that they draw attention to themselves. And they should never be long or folded as they are on many hounds.

The Labrador Retriever eyes are where we see that irresistible, sweet, kind and alert expression. Some are shaped like a rounded diamond.  Although some round eyes can be attractive, they should not resemble the round eyes of a Cocker Spaniel, nor should they be too almond-shaped. A good color would be a warm brown-eye on all three colors (black, yellow or chocolate), maybe a bit darker on a yellow Labrador Retriever. If the eyes are too light, the dog’s expression will be ruined.

There should never be a harsh or mean look about a Labrador. When you look into a Lab’s eyes, you should feel instant friendliness. Usually, the moment your eyes meet, the Lab’s powerful tail starts wagging automatically.

The desirable Labrador Retriever head should sit on a strong neck of medium length. If the neck is too short, the dog looks as if his head is sitting on his shoulders; if the neck is too long, the dog appears elegant, like a setter, which is not correct. There is nothing elegant about this dog. He is agile, strong, and sturdy. As you continue down the neck, past the withers, the top line (the back) should be rather level, never sway-back or sloping to the degree that a Setter’s back does from the neck to the rump.

The Labrador Retriever chest should be deep with well-sprung ribs like a barrel. The shoulders should be long and sloping. The correct look requires long bones that form a ninety-degree angle as you look at the dog from the side, from the withers, to the sternum, to the elbow.

The front legs of a Labrador Retriever are well underneath the dog, allowing a prominent breastbone to show and creating the picture of a powerful chest.

Description Of A Labrador Retriever: Part 1

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The Labrador Retriever standard was changed recently. The new standard describes the Labrador Retriever as a medium-sized dog, giving the appearance of a dog that is strong, muscular and active. The head, which includes a very specific kind and friendly expression, the coat and the tail are the breed’s three outstanding characteristics.

However, the head, coat, tail and temperament, all worn on the correct body or frame, are what give you the complete Labrador Retriever. Though temperament is not a physical trait, it is the essence of this breed. The Labrador’s kindly temperament is visible in his warm eyes as well as in his body language. If any of these things is missing, you do not have a Labrador.

The head of a Labrador Retriever is one of the breed’s most distinguishing characteristics. It should not remind you of any other breed. If it reminds you of a Coonhound, a Great Dane or some kind of Terrier, then it is not a correct Labrador head. The Lab has a fairly broad back skull and a nice stop. The stop connects the skull to the muzzle, and the eyes are set into the stop.

The skull and muzzle run on practically parallel planes. The head should not have big, heavy, apple cheeks or flews that are too pendulous. The head should have a neat, clean appearance unlike the sloppy or drooling look that is appropriate for a Saint Bernard. The muzzle should be strong and never snipey looking. The nose should be wide with well-developed nostrils, for that keen sense of smell.

A Labrador Retriever should have what is called a “scissors bite,” where the top front teeth come down right over (actually touching) the bottom front teeth, just as the blades of a pair of scissors cross each other to cut something. A level bite, where the top and bottom meet at exactly the same place, is acceptable but not desirable. Labradors should have full dentition and should not be overshot or undershot, where there is a gap of one-eighth to one-quarter inch or more between the top and bottom jaw.

Either of these conditions or a wry mouth (crooked jaw) would make it harder for the dog to carry game. However, if your dog is a family pet, it probably will not matter if his bite is not perfect. A Labrador Retriever will probably never miss a meal.

Caring For The Labrador Retriever Face & Ears

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After a day of hunting or a run in overgrown terrain, a Labrador Retriever should have their eyes and ears inspected for signs of embedded objects or scratches. The ear can be easily inspected with the aid of a small flashlight to help you see the upper interior.

It is quite easy for burrs to become entangled in or around the ear canal, or for tiny seeds to work their way under the eyelids and irritate the eye. The Labrador Retriever will react to such irritants by pawing at the spot, often causing more damage by scraping the surface raw and inviting infection.

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If the Labrador Retriever is continuously rubbing these areas and no cut or embedded object is visible, there may be an abrasion that will require a salve to remove the sting and aid in healing.

Ear troubles are also indicated when a Labrador Retriever constantly shakes its head, rubs its head against the ground, produces an excessive amount of visible ear wax, or if there is a foul odor from the ear’s interior.

If the dog reacts violently to an inspection of the ear or if there is redness or swelling, it probably is suffering from an inflammation that must be treated topically by your veterinarian (antibiotics are sometimes required also). Such inflammations can be the result of a variety of causes, such as parasitic mites or bacterial infections, so an accurate diagnosis is imperative.

You can help to alleviate the normal buildup of wax and dirt in the ear by routinely swabbing the easily accessible areas of the ear with a cotton ball wet with a little warm water. Ointments made specifically for cleaning the outer ear can be purchased from pet shops, grooming parlors, or your veterinarian if cleanliness is a continual problem.

Avoid oily compounds, as they may leave a sticky residue that will retain dirt. Do not probe into the ear canal during cleaning, as this can be very damaging and extremely painful for the dog. Clean only the exposed area. If you suspect that the ear is becoming clogged, bring the dog to the veterinarian for a more thorough cleaning. You should ask for instructions on how to perform this procedure at home if the problem is chronic.

To remove small amounts of discharge that may collect around the corners of the eye, carefully dab it away with a damp, clean, lint-free cloth. If the dog continues to blink excessively or if the eye is red, consult your veterinarian. Minor irritations can quickly become serious on a Labrador Retriever, so special attention must be paid to any tearing or discharge from these sensitive areas.

Caring For The Labrador Retriever Coat

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Caring for the coat of a Labrador Retriever is not much of a problem. The short, dense hair is easily groomed with a daily application of a hound glove or bristle brush. The coat is basically dirt and water repellent, and seldom becomes offensive.

There is little shedding, even though the Labrador Retriever loses its undercoat once or twice yearly. Coat trimming is unnecessary (although sometimes resorted to by show competitors who feel tidying is necessary to highlight this or downplay that aspect of conformation).

Bathing should not be a routine matter, but should only be undertaken when absolutely necessary (such as that unexpected meeting with a local skunk, a roll in the mud, or the presence of an accumulated “doggy odor” from the oils in the coat). Washing a Labrador Retrievertoo frequently eliminates too much of the natural oils that give the outer coat its desired harshness. Soap residue can also dry out the skin and be irritating to the dog.

Yellows may need to be bathed a little more frequently than blacks or chocolates, as their coat may pick up some discoloration from grass and dirt. This can often be taken care of by spot washing only the main contact points – the lower legs and thighs.

When bathing is needed, be sure to use a very mild soap designed especially for the dog’s coat – not commercial products for humans, which are much too drying for a dog. When bathing the dog, work the water down through the dense outer coat to the skin. Afterward, be very careful to dry the dog thoroughly.

It may sound silly to worry about a Labrador Retriever getting a chill from a bath, when a hunting Labrador often spends many hours diving in and out of icy waters without so much as a shiver. However, the bathing process temporarily removes some of the dog’s natural water-repellent oils and gets the dog wet at the skin. At this point, even a water dog is vulnerable to temperature extremes, so be cautious.

A word of caution: Should you notice a change in coat appearance, such as a dulling of the normal sheen, inspect the skin closely for signs of parasite infestation or other skin disorders.

If the dog begins to scratch incessantly or chew its coat and skin, there is an irritation present that must be diagnosed by a competent veterinarian. Recent nutritional studies have shown that many such skin problems can be ‘traced to allergic reactions to food additives or other substances. A change in the natural oils of the coat’ may point to metabolic problems involving the liver, kidneys, or the digestive tract.

The loss of hair may be tied to hormonal imbalances, or could be due to infectious mange. The point is that the coat is often an indicator of general health and should not be overlooked just because the Labrador Retriever is lucky enough not to need much attention paid to it.

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