Edie MacKenzie

Edie MacKenzie is a published author, traveler, dog lover, and tortoise enthusiast. Passionate about what she does, her books provide peopel a firm grounding in the dog breed and their unique characteristics with a nice touch of humor.

A Brief History Of The Dalmatian

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Since the mid 18th century, historians have found references to the breed of dog known as the Dalmatian.  The breeds’ first established home, for which the breed was also named after was Dalmatia.  It is a place in the Western Yugoslavian area which at one time was part of Austria, located on the Adriatic.  However, these dogs were well-known throughout many parts of the world long before that time.  The breed was shown in various types of antique art including engravings, paintings, models, and early writings which have accounted for the presence of spotted dogs of the same size and type in wide-ranging areas including early Africa, Asia, and Europe.  As history tells us, several bands of ancient gypsies (Romanies) were accompanied by the dogs in their wanderings around the world, which explains the vast widespread and popularity of the breed.

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The Dalmatian quickly became a favorite and established some of their best known claims to fame in Great Britain.  They were brought there by members of the British upper classes who in those days often made tours to Europe and would often come back  accompanied by some of the striking spotted dogs.  Right after they were adopted by the English aristocracy who used them to accompany their horse-drawn carriages, the charming dog soon became a feature of these processions.  The dogs were taught to station themselves beneath the rear axle of the coach, and in some cases to trot underneath the pole separating the horses.  They were also taught to lead the procession, trotting along ahead of the first horse, which was an impressive sight to see!

Another type of activity with which the Dalmatian became known for, which also said to have started in Great Britain, is his very famous role of being a “firehouse dog.”  This was said to have started with the dogs being used as ratters, for the function of killing vermin in London’s stables and firehouses, which they did with expertise.   But these dogs loved the horses and the fire engine, so it was almost inevitable that they soon were racing ahead of them through the streets whenever the alarm was sounded.  In the present days, many Dalmatians can still be seen riding on the fire trucks with their masters.  Dalmatians are still considered as the mascot and are often found in firehouses, not only in Great Britain but in the United States and other countries as well.

In addition to being a “firehouse dog,” Dalmatians have also worked in war times; done sentinel duty; served as shepherd’s dogs; and as draft dogs.  The Dalmatian has been seen in many circus shows, especially enjoying popularity with the clowns as “assistants,” their intelligence, aptitude, and showy appearance having fitted them particularly well for this activity.

Step By Step Instructions For Bathing Your Poodle

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How To Bathe Your Poodle

1. Only after completing the brushing should you move on to the bath. This is so because if the Poodle coat is not tangle-free, the accumulated dirt will not shampoo out and any mats will be even harder to remove.

2. Secure a hose to the bathtub faucet so that ample free-flowing water is available at all times.

3. Have all your necessary supplies close at hand, for once you have started the bath you should remain by the Poodle side to reassure him and to make sure he does not jump out of the tub. A dog shampoo (preferably “tearless”), sponge, brush, and towel will be needed.

4. Until you are adept at giving proper baths to your pet, place cotton plugs in your dog’s ears to avoid any water getting into the ear canal.

5. The dog must be thoroughly soaked with warm water before he is soaped. Once you have worked the water down to his skin, soap and cleanse the coat along the spine; move next to the legs and the underside.

6. Be especially careful when cleaning the head and ears to avoid direct contact with the sensitive areas. Unless you have a special “no tear” shampoo, it would be wise to apply several drops of mineral oil into the dog’s eyes to avoid stinging.

7. Since a dog’s coat naturally repels water, you must actively massage the shampoo down through the layers to the skin. Rub vigorously and work the shampoo into a lather. Depending on the condition of the coat, you may have to shampoo the dog twice to get out all accumulated dirt and oil.

8. It is imperative that all traces of soap be removed from the coat after the bath. Several rinses with warm water, again working your fingers down to the skin, will ensure that no soapy residue will remain on the skin to cause irritation.

9. Once you are satisfied that all soap has been washed out, rinse him once more for good measure!

10. Squeeze as much water as possible from the coat before you lift him out of the tub. This will considerably shorten the drying time. Rub him briskly with a towel to blot up as much excess water as possible and to prevent him from getting a chill. If you have an enclosed area such as a drying cage, put him in and direct your hot air blower over him. You can leave him in the cage until he is dry, and then brush him to make sure he is dry down to the skin. However, if you have a show dog you can leave him in the cage only until he is partially dry, and then proceed to “fluff” dry him by brushing the coat while having the stream of air directed at your work area.

This produces the powder puff look for the Poodle needed for competition.

Grooming The Nails On Your Poodle

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At least once a month for an adult Poodle and once a week for pups, you must tackle the grooming chore of nail trimming. Failing to trim your dog’s nails can result in sore, splayed feet. How can you tell if your Poodle’s nails are too long? Well, simply listen. Do you hear a click-click when she walks across the tile or linoleum floor? If you do, that means the nails are touching the floor – and they shouldn’t be. Or, take a look at your Poodle s feet while she’s standing. Do you see the nails touching the floor? The idea is to keep your Poodles nails trimmed back short enough so they don’t touch.

There are two basic types of nail clippers: the scissors and the guillotine. You also can use a nail grinder, but it may take some time to get your dog used to the noise. If you use scissors or guillotine clippers, keep them sharp and clean. Dull clippers won’t make a clean cut, and rusty, dirty ones can infect your dog if you cut too quick and your pet bleeds. The objective when clipping nails is to trim as close to the quick as possible without accidentally nicking it. Dark nails are more difficult to cut than light-colored ones, since it is impossible to see the pink vein.

Remove the dry looking hook at the tip of the nail, cutting off small bits of nail at a time. As you cut the nail shorter, you’ll notice it becomes softer and you’ll see a small grayish-white dot under the nail, which is the end of the quick. When you reach this point, the nail is short enough; you can now move on to the next one. Keep in mind that the more often you trim, the shorter you can get the nail, since the quick actually recedes with frequent trimming. Cut each nail as quickly and cleanly as possible; cutting slowly tends to pinch the nail and cause your dog discomfort.

To trim your Poodle’s nails, hold one paw firmly in your left hand (if you’re right-handed) and place your thumb on top of the foot. Place your fingers underneath the pads so you can spread the toes. With the clippers in your right hand, clip each nail right below the quick with short, decisive strokes. Don’t forget the dewclaws if they were not removed when your Poodle was a pup.

Finish trimming the first paw, then file each nail with a metal file to remove sharp, rough edges that could scratch your legs if your Poodle is naughty and jumps up on you. DO NOT file any nails that have bled. Work your way to the next paw, trim each nail, then file.

If you accidentally cut too close, don’t panic. Apply a styptic powder to staunch the bleeding and continue clipping the other nails. Don’t stop and make a big fuss over your mistake, as it may make your dog even more apprehensive the next time you attempt to clip his nails.

A word of advice: start early. Poodles, like all dogs, must learn to accept new experiences. Begin nail trimming while your dog is a pup and do it every week. Between trimmings, handle the dogs feet to accustom her to being touched. The Poodle doesn’t usually make a fuss about trimming, but it’s still wise to-teach your dog to accept it from a young age. Before attempting to clip your Poodle s nails yourself, you may want to observe your groomer or veterinarian the first time.

Poodle Grooming Tips

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Because of the quickly growing a coat of the Poodle, a trim and bath are usually necessary every six to eight weeks. If you have decided that you are going to be the one to take care of the coat, rather than a professional groomer, certain supplies must be on hand.

For basic brushing, the pin-bristled brush does the best job.

Make sure that the bristles are straight, not curved, and set fairly widely apart on a rubber base. Brushes with curved, widely spaced bristles can damage the Poodle coat. A slicker brush that is long in shape and has fine, closely set wires with a slight bend at the tips is recommended for ridding the coat of mats and tangles.

A coarse-toothed steel comb and a fine-toothed comb complete the list of tools needed to keep the coat unsnarled.

Clipping the coat requires the use of an electric clipper, preferably one with interchangeable blades. A small animal clipper is highly recommended by professional groomers as it is lightweight and easily handled.

The blades vary in size according to the area of the Poodle body that is to be clipped, with the number of the blade designating how much hair it removes. The higher the number, the more hair it clips off.

It must be noted that these blades can get quite hot during clipping and burn the dog’s skin, so it is recommended that you also purchase a spray lubricant designed to cool and lube the blades. Of course, you could also use hand clippers, but they are much more difficult than the electric to operate, and the entire clipping procedure will take quite a bit longer. Several sharp scissors will also be needed to apply the finishing touches to the look of the coat.

When you begin grooming your poodle, his hindquarter region is a good place to start. By beginning here, the dog cannot see what is occurring behind him, and he should not become nervous or annoyed. Remember, it is a very good rule to accustom your dog to the entire grooming procedure prior to attempting any major clipping.

He should be well trained enough so that he will obey your “stay” commands while he is on the grooming table. Make it clear from the start that grooming is to be taken seriously. The procedure should neither be a game nor a wrestling match for either of you.

Begin your grooming routine by first looking for any mats or tangles. Carefully work your fingers through the coat, then repeat the procedure using the fine-toothed comb.

If you should find a mat, use your slicker brush or a matting comb. The coat should be brushed up and then down to loosen the matted hairs. Applying a tangle remover to the coat may also help to ease the problem.

In any case, mats must be removed prior to the bath to avoid further tightening.

Once you have finished brushing the hindquarters, begin brushing out the hind legs with quick, short, up and down strokes. Repeat the procedure with the front legs.

After the legs are completely tangle-free, begin brushing the body, starting at the back end and working up to the neck region.

Brush underneath the body, making sure you give this area a proper amount of attention as it is a prime area for matting.

The head and ears should be done with great care, as these delicate areas provide much of the Poodle beauty if groomed properly.

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Why Does A Poodle Have Those Interesting Haircuts?

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The Poodle coat consists of two types of hair. The outer coat should be thick, wiry and curly. The undercoat must be soft and woolly to provide warmth. Puppies, however, are exceptions. Poodle puppy coats are soft and fine with little or no curl, but often with a slight wave.

As the dog matures into adulthood, the coat develops a thick, curly quality. The best way to judge a puppy’s potential adult coat is to look at the parents. If they carry good coats, their
puppies will likely possess them too.

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Ever since the first hunters trimmed their retrieving dogs to prevent drowning, the Poodle hairstyle has been a favorite topic of conversation among dog people. Initially, Poodles sported either a Continental clip or an English Saddle clip. Now, hundreds of years later, these are still popular as they are required clips for show dogs.

Puppies under one year of age are shown in a simple trim known as a “Puppy clip”. Only the face, throat, feet and base of tail are clipped. The tail displays the characteristic pompom at its end. The body coat is lightly trimmed to give it a neat unbroken line for a pleasant appearance.

The “Continental clip” has full hair around the chest and rib cage, with shaved hindquarters and legs. Large pompons are sculpted over each hip above the area of the kidneys (optional) and around the ankles for protection from the cold.

The “English Saddle clip” permits a short mantle of hair over the hindquarters and full
coat from the waist to the topknot and ears. The ankle and knee joints are also protected with pompons.

All Poodles are given a topknot of hair over the skull that is brushed out and groomed to stand erect in a rounded pompon. Adult dogs must be shown in either the English Saddle or Continental clip; the only exception being competitors in Stud Dog classes, for which a Sporting clip is permitted. The English Saddle and Continental are the clips of choice for the conformation ring around the world, except in the UK, where the Lion clip is preferred.

Pet Poodles and those not being shown in breed conformation classes at dog shows are usually groomed in styles designed for ease of maintenance. Often the body hair is clipped short, with the legs trimmed a bit longer. Some male Poodles sport tiny mustaches around the muzzles. The pet style is usually determined by the owner’s willingness and capability to maintain the coat in a well-groomed fashion. In addition. a Poodle that spend a lot of time outdoors are usually kept shorter because it’s easier to keep the coat clean when the hair isn’t too long.

Potential Skin & Eye Health Concerns Of The Poodle

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Poodle Health Issues

Well-bred Poodles are hardy, long-lived dogs who enjoy good health all their days. However, Poodles can be subject to certain health conditions, and the wise Poodle puppy buyer should be aware of these problems and avoid them whenever possible.

As with humans, Poodles have many health concerns that are hereditary in nature. Many of these can be avoided by careful investigation on the new owner’s part by asking the breeder about the health background of the Poodle puppy’s parents.

For example, have the parents been tested for such conditions as cataracts that can cause blindness?

Does either of the parents have epilepsy and, if so, how is it controlled?

Has either parent experienced orthopedic problems and, if so, how serious were they?

Here we take a closer look at some health conditions that have been found in Poodles as well as many other breeds of dog. Please note that not all Poodles experience these conditions. However, it behooves the puppy buyer to be well informed regarding potential health concerns of the breed under consideration. Also note that responsible breeders do not breed from any dog that is known to have or carry any hereditary problems.

Poodle Eye Problems: A cataract is a cloudiness or film over the lens of the eye, categorized by age of onset, location on the eye and stage of the cloudiness. This condition is hereditary, and parents should be tested before breeding takes place to prevent this condition from being passed on.

Glaucoma, a leading cause of blindness, is caused by an increase in fluid pressure within the eye. It can be hereditary, and parents should be tested prior to breeding. Miniature Poodles are prone to narrow-angle glaucoma, which produces pain and redness in the eyes. The treatment is medical and/or surgical.

Progressive retinal atrophy, or PRA, refers to inherited disorders affecting the retina of the eye. Visual impairment is slow but progressive. Night blindness can be the first signal of trouble, and there is no known way to stop onset.

Poodle Skin Problems: Atopic dermatitis refers to an unusual or atypical condition of the derma or skin. It can be difficult to diagnose.

Sebaceous adenitis is inflammatory damage to hair follicles and sebaceous glands. It is most often seen in Standard Poodles but also seen in Toys and Miniatures. It is a hereditary condition. There is no known cure, but treatment to control it includes frequent bathing to reduce surface scale and to increase moisture to the skin.

Color dilution alopecia is an anomaly that usually occurs in dogs bred for unusual coat colors, such as those described as “blue,” which is a diluted form of black. The condition, when it occurs, is not curable. Moisturizers and frequent shampooing can lessen the incidence of dry, scaly skin.

Seborrhea is an abnormal and excessive discharge from the sebaceous glands in the skin for your Poodle it must be treated medically.

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