Dog Information Archives - Page 56 of 62

Comfortable Bedding For Your Precious Puppy

May 11, 2010 by admin Leave a Comment

A puppy or dog will take great comfort in discovering there is a warm, soft sleeping space all ready for her in her new home. Once you choose the type of bed she will be sleeping in, be sure to place the bed in a place free of loud noise and distraction – a new dog needs to sleep in relative calm.

The most popular commercially made beds are made of wicker. One of the advantages of a wicker bed is that movement causes it to creak, a sound that seems to calm dogs. However, dirt and crumbs get easily lodged in wicker. Wicker also is an easy target for teething and destructive puppies. Not only is it prone to damage, it can break off and wind up inside your puppy’s body. Therefore, avoid wicker beds for young dogs.

Another type of bed available in pet stores is constructed of hard plastic. This will both indulge and survive dogs that relieve their anxiety by chewing on their beds. Beanbag chairs can also
work as long as the cover is very sturdy and can be easily removed and washed.

Of all beds, the one that makes the most sense is a collapsible crate or cage-like enclosure. A cage can be used for housebreaking purposes and often gives a new dog a sense of security. In essence, the new dog will “own” this structure, and consider it to be her very own space in the house. Standard crates suitable for dogs that never exceed thirty pounds are about two by four feet and stand three feet high. Larger enclosures are available to fit bigger breeds.

When She First Comes Home

When the puppy first enters your home, place her in her cage and leave her alone there. After ten or fifteen minutes, return and release her. While the puppy is in the cage, do your best
to resist her mournful howls, which should subside after a few minutes. Try to ease her fear by placing a light blanket over the cage to transform it into a cozy enclosure. Of course, the puppy’s world should in no way be confined to the cage. Supervised ventures throughout the house are crucial to her becoming fully acclimated to her new environment. A puppy probably longs for the snug camaraderie of sleeping with her litter-mates. To reproduce the warmth a mother and litter provides, wrap a lukewarm hot water bottle in a towel and place it in the bed.

Puppies need gentle discipline to give them a sense of order. When it comes to bedtime, they need to learn early that sleep usually means temporarily leaving the fun and attention people provide. A puppy should be confined to her “room” when her natural sleeping time occurs. Stick to this schedule so that it becomes routine. A good way to ease the trauma of these nightly separations is to place a piece of your clothing in the puppy’s bed. The scent that emanates from the garment will be calming.

Choosing A Mixed-Bred Dog

May 3, 2010 by admin Leave a Comment

Any dog with two or more ancestors of different breeds is called a mixed-breed. There are probably as many mixed-breed dogs in this country as there are purebreds, largely the result of failure to alter or contain pets properly. However, it is important to realize, of course, that each of today’s purebred dogs began as a calculated experiment in selective breeding by a fancier with a definite purpose in mind, to engineer a new breed to suit a specific need.

Mixed-breed dogs are normally no better or worse than purebred dogs with regard to temperament and physiology. Keep in mind that a mixed-breed dog is simply the product of purebred animals. There is no process occurring that would make mixed-breed dogs far better or far worse than purebreds. Some people insist that mixed breeds are hardier than purebreds because they come from a larger gene pool, but this is not generally true. If today’s mixed breeds were farther removed from their purebred ancestors – say, ten or twenty generations – there might be validity to that claim. But this is not the case. The vast majority of mixed breeds had a purebred parent or grandparent and will therefore approximate their physiology and temperament, albeit with some minor and often interesting variations.

Mixed-breed dogs are always available, unlike purebreds, which often require a search and then a waiting period. Shelters in this country are filled with mixed breeds of all ages, as a result of the irresponsibility of owners. They are also very affordable, usually costing only the price of altering, licensing, and vaccinations. Purebred dogs on the other hand can cost anywhere from three hundred dollars for a pet-quality puppy of a popular breed to well over a thousand dollars for a large or rare show-quality dog. In addition, if you get a mixed breed through a shelter, you will most likely be provided with some educational material, and you may also be given an opportunity to enroll in an obedience class.

There are drawbacks to acquiring a mixed breed dog, however. It is hard to predict the size that a mixed breed pup will attain when fully grown. In a year you could end up with a two-hundred-pound pet. Even more important, you will usually know little or nothing about the dog’s history or breeding. Was the dog abused? Hit by a car? What were his parent and litter-mates like?

To All Dog Owners: Are You Guilty Of Anthropomorphism?

May 1, 2010 by admin Leave a Comment

For years Hollywood has portrayed motion-picture canines as animals whose motivations are based on human perceptions and values. Lassie saves a rabbit from death, for example, or Benji solves a crime, or Rin Tin Tin protects the fort from outlaws. These animal films are very entertaining, and the canine actors are extremely well trained, but they tend to give the viewer a distorted, unrealistic picture of a dog’s ability to think and reason.

This misrepresentation of canine behavior is the do wnfall of many dog owners and their unfortunate pets. A person who has never taken a dog training course or read a good training manual containing information on canine behavior very often expects from his or her dog things that canines are unable to do. Such a person may teach even those behaviors that the dog is capable of carrying out in a confusing and haphazard manner. Many poor dogs are then unjustly labeled, spiteful, stupid, stubborn, and sometimes just plain bad. The proper label is ignorant, and it belongs to the owner, not the dog. Whenever you try to evaluate canine behaviors through a human point of view, you will misinterpret them.

All but the very worst anthropomorphic dog owners can be helped if they make a valid effort to understand their dogs. It is not a crime to be anthropomorphic, but it should be a crime if you own a dog and make no effort to understand him. Some aspects of anthropomorphism are harmless to the dog – and can even be enjoyable. For example, giving your dog a special dinner on his birthday or filling a Christmas stocking with dog toys and treats is not detrimental; What dog owners should learn about anthropomorphism should directly concern the dog’s training, especially when it comes to good timing and fair corrections. For example, owners often correct their dog based on a “guilty look” on the dog’s face, assuming he “knows” he was wrong. The dog doesn’t know, any more than he knows it is his birthday or Christmas.

Here is another good example of anthropomorphism. Many dog owners – especially owners of younger dogs – experience a chewing problem at some point. Many calls come in on a regular basis from frustrated owners who say that their dogs chew furniture, rugs, shoes, and the like when left alone in the house. They say that they have tried everything. “He knows he has done wrong,” they say. When asked what they have done to correct the dog, they say, “I holler at him and show him what he chewed. I tell him he is bad, and I smack him with the newspaper.”

This procedure is usually repeated many times while the dog continues to destroy the house. Eventually the time arrives when the owner comes home and the dog runs and hides. Some dogs may even stand and shiver with a terribly “guilty look” on their face. Then, periodically, the owner will come home and not find a mess. The owner will be happy and will praise and pet the dog. The dog will respond to the happy sound and good-feeling rubs with a wagging tail and a happy appearance.

This cheerful behavior, unfortunately, reinforces in the owner’s mind that the dog knows that avoiding chewing is “right” and that chewing up the house is “wrong.” “He’s just a bad dog,” the owner thinks or “He’s really spiteful. He wants to get even with me for leaving him home.” These statements are all based strictly on human emotions and a human perspective. Owners such as these are being anthropocentric. They view everything in terms of human experience and human values.

Dog Care Tips for Grooming Your Dog

April 30, 2010 by admin 1 Comment

The best way is start grooming your puppy is when he first comes home with you, but if you have an adult dog who balks at grooming here are a few dog care tips.

The first time you bring out the nail clippers hold the clippers in your hand next to the dog’s paw and give him a treat with praise. The next time hold the dog’s paw and place his nail in the nail clipper but don’t cut. Again praise him and reward with treats. When the dog calmly accepts you holding his paw and bringing the clipper to his nail, and placing the nail in the clipper, then cut the nail quickly and confidently. Don’t be nervous because your dog will pick up on that emotion. Praise your dog and give him a treat.

Do this with the other dog grooming tools as well. The dog will associate being groomed with praise and treats. Keep your first grooming sessions short. Right before his dinner is a good time. Your dog will be alert and hungry which means he’ll be more motivated. He’ll start to associate grooming with dinner as well as treats.

Don’t lose your temper. Keep a smile on your face and the sessions as pleasant as possible.

Most dogs don’t mind having their teeth brushed and actually like it. If your dog struggles, use the same method with the toothbrush as you did with the nail clippers. Your first session, hold a treat in one hand and the toothbrush with a bit of dog toothpaste by his mouth. Give him the treat and lots of praise. Then gently lift his lip, again reward with a treat and praise. Finally lift his lip and gently scrub his side teeth. The dog should get a taste of the toothpaste and your struggles will be over. Don’t overdo the toothpaste, a little is enough.

Veterinarians say that the most common pet health care problem is their teeth. If your dog has tarter it could turn into a serious problem resulting in infection, loss of teeth, and at the very least, very bad breath. Tarter is that yellowish soon to turn brownish hard build up next to the gum line. Prevention by brushing is much easier than getting rid of tarter. Most of the time that means a professional cleaning and it’s expensive. Dogs don’t sit still to have their teeth cleaned like people do, so they have to be under a general anesthetic and that’s costly.

One method that seems to work with some dogs to get rid of a mild case of tarter is gently swapping their teeth with a piece of gauze soaked in medicinal strength (not hair bleach strength) hydrogen peroxide every day.

When brushing your dog’s coat, hold the hair with one hand on the skin side of a tangle and use the brush with your other hand to brush out the tangle. That way your dog won’t feel the pull of the brush as much. Use a people hair detangling spray to make the brushing even easier.

Use these dog care tips for grooming your dog and the sessions should be fun for both of you.

Find more about dog grooming tools. Dee Power is the author of several nonfiction books and the novel “Over Time.” She is the proud companion of Rose, the Irish Setter, and Kate the English Springer Spaniel. Read Rose and Kate’s blog.

Article Source: ArticleSpan

Understanding Your Dog’s Chewing Problems

April 19, 2010 by admin Leave a Comment

Chewing is usually a developmental phase that puppies pass through to relieve the itch and pain of cutting new teeth. The majority of dogs stop chewing everything in sight once their new teeth are fully erupted, at about 9 months old. The few dogs that do not cease chewing by age 1, either have acquired the habit of chewing from boredom, anxiety, and frustration, or have acquired an unusual gourmet appetite.

Regardless of the reason a dog chews, the behavior of chewing can be very expensive and very dangerous to the dog’s physical well being. Correcting chewing, or any other behavior problem, requires that someone be present to catch the dog in the act. Showing the dog a shoe that was chewed several hours earlier and yelling at him may make you feel better, but there is little chance that he will connect the correction with the idea that chewing shoes is wrong. An unsupervised puppy left to roam the house may develop a taste for dangerous chew toys such as electrical cords, cleaning supplies, and other toxic items. The landscaped yard filled with possibly toxic plants, or rocks and wood that can obstruct the dog’s intestines is a similarly dangerous environment for the unsupervised puppy. Dogs that chew and swallow rocks or other sharp objects often require costly and risky emergency surgery.

To avoid mishaps when you cannot keep a watchful eye on the dog, confine him in an area where only appropriate chew items such as dog toys, rawhides, or knuckle bones are available. You must exercise caution in which chew toys are left in the crate, because dogs have been reported to choke on some toys and rawhides. If you confine your dog to a crate during unsupervised periods, you don’t have to worry about him chewing up prized possessions and furniture, or doing himself harm. You may choose to dog proof the house by removing any prize possessions until the dog has passed through the chewing stage. Products such as Bitter Apple or Tabasco sauce may be sprayed on furniture and possessions to keep the dog from chewing, but check for staining before using them. Ninety-nine percent of the dogs find the taste of these products repulsive, but a few dogs think they are a gourmet delight.

One product that may not be attractive to any dog is ammonia. Be careful not to spray the ammonia when the dog is close by; it could damage his olfactory system and eyes. Read the instructions carefully to determine what is safe to spray on valuable possessions. Your dog should be well supplied with acceptable chew items such as old socks, safe dog toys, rawhides, chew hooves, and knuckle bones. Only knuckle bones are safe; other bones will splinter and get caught in the dog’s throat or intestines. If you are worried that your dog will not discriminate between an old chewable sock and a new sock, you may want to take time to play fetch with the dog and an old sock so the item will become his favorite toy. The old sock will carry the scent of the dog, whereas the new sock has your scent. The dog quickly learns the difference between the socks when you praise him for playing with and chewing the old sock and reprimand him for chewing on socks with your scent.

Dog Supplements May Not Be Necessary After All

April 18, 2010 by admin Leave a Comment

If you use a good quality meat-meal based food you usually do not have to supplement your dog’s ration. In fact, it is very easy to throw the formulation of some of the specialty foods out
of kilter if you play with supplements. Unfortunately, adding a little bit of this and a little bit of that is a cultural mentality handed down from the time when pet foods weren’t complete
and needed supplementation. Breeders often advocate supplements and many send their clients home with long lists of additives – vitamins, minerals, dairy products, oils and other
lotions and potions. Many breeders will turn an absolutely deaf ear to entreaties from veterinarians or canine nutritionists who suggest a good basic ration and a minimum of supplementation.

Supplement supporters aren’t usually thinking along behavioral lines and, since they themselves rarely have difficulty house-training their dogs, don’t realize that not everyone is so knowledgeable and over-supplementation can easily produce loose stools and make good control difficult for the dog. Coat conditioners, for instance, can easily be withheld from the diet until the puppy is house-trained. The puppy doesn’t need them if he or she is eating a good quality food, and (in most breeds) the puppy coat has to grow out naturally anyway. Oils and people foods, especially those high in fat (like steak trimmings) easily “oil up” the intestines and in many cases cause stools to “slide out” quite unexpectedly.

If your breeder or pet store operator gives you a list of supplements and binds you under pain of mortal sin to use them, start asking some questions. Ask whether these supplements are necessary if you use a high-quality specialty food. Ask how these supplements will affect your house-training progress. Ask if it is absolutely necessary to add the supplements right away or if this can wait until house-training is accomplished. For instance, although the jury is definitely out on the relationship between mega doses of vitamin C and hip dysplasia (a congenital ailment that plagues many larger breeds), many breeders are routinely recommending giving the vitamin. Whether or not the vitamin helps ward off hip dysplasia, we do know that it can have a diarrheic effect on many dogs, complicating the house-training process.

Dairy products are also dangerous additives and produce runny stools in some dogs. People food should be avoided as a matter of good behavioral policy, lest the dog turn to begging at the table, but it should be especially taboo during house-training. Dog treats that are full of preservatives or dyes (often to keep a “meat center” bright red) can also throw many dogs’ innards for a loop and complicate cleanliness. Good general advice is to stay away from supplements during the house-training process and use only minimal or no additives later on, but do use a quality daily ration.

Recent Blog Posts