Edie MacKenzie

Edie MacKenzie is a published author, traveler, dog lover, and tortoise enthusiast. Passionate about what she does, her books provide peopel a firm grounding in the dog breed and their unique characteristics with a nice touch of humor.

Puppy Socialization: The Best Way To Socialize Your Puppy With Other Dogs

June 15, 2009 by admin Leave a Comment

Knowing how to behave properly when around other dogs represents a skill vital for any canine to enjoy his venture beyond his own yard. However, this aspect of socialization harbors more serious risks than meeting people. Dogs possess a defined set of rules in greeting each other, and though most adults grant leeway for ill-mannered puppies, not all do.

For this reason, puppy kindergarten classes provides the safest venue for socializing your puppy around other dogs. Kindergarten restricts classes to puppies who have completed vaccinations and helps owners train basic manners. A good class recognizes the value of letting puppies interact.

Also important, but not always part of every puppy class, is the inclusion of structured play sessions. Many puppy classes allow general playtime with all the puppies turned loose at once. This frequently results in smaller or timid puppies getting “beat up” by larger or more dominant pups. Because unpleasant encounters can initiate fear or aggression toward other dogs, find a class where the instructor supervises all puppy interaction.

Look for kindergarten classes at training clubs or private trainers via your local phone directory under “pets” or “dog training”. Your potential instructor should have experience in teaching assorted breeds from the various groups. Ask if they use treats, toys, praise and play to encourage canine cooperation rather than forcing compliance. It is best to observe a class in progress. If both people and puppies appear to be doing well and having fun, consider signing up.

As mentioned, not all dogs look kindly on puppies. If your kindergarten class takes place at a busy training club, keep your pup away from dogs that are not in your group. Ignore the often heard assurance of “Oh, he’s friendly” unless it comes from your instructor. A well-meaning but misguided student from another class may offer this statement before understanding exactly how their dog feels about puppies.

“Monsters” That Your Dog May Have To Deal With

A few years ago, when walking one of my young dogs along a city sidewalk in my brother’s neighborhood, my dog stopped dead, staring nervously ahead. Following her gaze, I realized she had spotted a potential monster: a fire hydrant.

Though I have always worked hard to socialize my dogs well, Cocoa, my Ibizan Hound, was cautious in nature and country living had excluded a prior encounter with this common city fixture.

Knowing Cocoa would largely key off my own reaction, I “kidded” her about being silly and walked another route. After crossing the street, we again headed in the “monster’s” direction, but this time there was a street width between us. As Cocoa started eyeing the hydrant, I pretended to be oblivious, chatting happily to her until well past it. On the way back, she was fine.

Later, I decided to see how she would respond if we again walked on the side where the monster lay in wait. This time I armed myself with some treats. When we neared the spot where she first noticed the hydrant, I started talking cheerfully and gave her a few goodies. This distracted her from worrying and assured her I had no concerns.

Within a minute or two, we were beyond the hydrant. She gave a short backward glance to make sure it wasn’t following us, but paid it little mind on our return trip.

The point of the story is that you should expect odd or unfamiliar objects to alarm your puppy or young dog. And when they do, don’t soothe him with a pat on the back to make him feel better. He’ll take this as a reward for being afraid. Instead, work to face the “danger” head on so in time he becomes used to whatever it is that was scaring him in the first place.

Filed Under: Dog Information Tagged With: Aggression, Basic Manners, Having Fun, Kindergarten Class, Leeway, Meeting People, Phone Directory, Playtime, Private Trainers, Pup, Puppies, Puppy Class, Puppy Classes, Puppy Dogs, Puppy Kindergarten Classes, Puppy Socialization, Structured Play, Training Clubs, Unpleasant Encounters, Well Meaning

Nutrition For Active Dogs – Proper Nutrition For Your Working Dog

June 13, 2009 by admin Leave a Comment

Dogs that lead a very active lifestyle demand a more comprehensive diet than average dogs require. Examples of these hard-working dogs are those that participate in agility competitions as well as those that team up with law enforcement on a search-and-rescue mission.

These dogs require nutritional needs that are different from an average household pet. Most of these sporting and working dogs participate in intermediate activities as well. These are activities that require low to moderate duration and intensity. Examples include: Competition or agility, service, search and rescue, tracking or hunting, police or guarding, detection, and even managing livestock.

Essential Nutrients For Your Busy Canine Athlete

Because your dog is always on the go, you need to provide him with larger doses of food and certain types of nutrients. This is especially important in times when they are most active. A typical working dog would need about 2 ? 5 times more calories than a sedentary dog. These extra calories are converted into energy that helps our canine athletes perform better.

Below are four key nutrients for busy dogs.

1. Carbohydrate: Once your dog reaches adulthood, he has no need for carbohydrates in his diet, although he is able to absorb this nutrient if eaten. Less carbohydrates in the adult dog’s diet creates better performance. Therefore, minimum amount of carbohydrates is required for the working dog or any dog that participates in any kind of activity that lasts for more than two minutes.

2. Protein: Protein contains amino acids, which are the building blocks for hormones, tissues, and enzymes. This nutrient provides energy and helps develop muscle mass for extra size and strength. Keep in mind, however, that too much protein in your dog’s diet can lead to excessive protein breakdown. A busy dog should have a diet that includes high-quality protein, enough to provide for muscle and structural repair.

3. Fats: The main source of energy for intermediate athletic dogs comes from fats. This nutrient contains about twice as much energy as carbohydrates and protein provides. Adding more fat to your dog’s diet is the best way to increase his energy and strength. A diet high in fat is more appealing to your dog while at the same time providing him with better endurance. Therefore, it is very important to supply him with adequate amount of essential fatty acids along with saturated and unsaturated fats.

4. Water: A hard-working dog normally loses more water during laborious activity so it is very important to provide him with an ample supply of water to keep him hydrated. This is even more important when your dog is under extreme temperatures (both hot and cold weather).

Filed Under: Dog Information Tagged With: Agility Competitions, Amino Acids, Canine Athlete, Canine Athletes, Essential Nutrients, Household Pet, Intermediate Activities, Main Source, Moderate Duration, Muscle Mass, nutrition for active dogs, Proper Nutrition, Protein Breakdown, Protein Diet, Quality Protein, Search And Rescue, Search And Rescue Mission, These Dogs, Types Of Nutrients, Working Dog, Working Dogs

Puppy Socialization: How To Help Your Pup With Positive Experiences

June 11, 2009 by admin Leave a Comment

Naturally, not every puppy comes from responsible beginnings. For the shelter puppy, one from a rescue group, or perhaps even a stray from completely unknown origins, your immediate attention to socialization can work wonders. This is the moments of your puppy’s life that can make or break his behavior and reaction to the outside world (as well as inside the house), for years to come.

However, keep in mind that, whether a few weeks or a few months old, coming home with you is a scary experience for a puppy. Give him a few days to adapt before taking him anywhere else.

Home soon provides a wonderful, secure environment for beginning socialization. The television, radio, blender and other appliances prepare your puppy for “strange” noises he may encounter later. Allowing him on different floorings, like vinyl, tile, wood and carpet, readies him for walking at the veterinarian’s office, pet supply store, friend’s homes, and more.

Of course every puppy is an individual and this fact greatly affects how you socialize your particular canine. Study your new addition, noting how he approaches unfamiliar objects and scenarios. A bold, fearless puppy frequently requires redirection to prevent him from jumping in headfirst, while a slightly timid or cautious youngster might need encouragement even in perfectly safe situations.

Professional trainers suggest that when your puppy shows hesitation towards something, don’t baby him. For instance, if your pup dislikes the slippery feel of vinyl, place a few pieces in or near his play area during supervised times. As you interact with him, purposefully disregard it when he “accidentally” places a foot on the vinyl. Your matter-of-fact attitude helps allay his concerns.

Alternatively, you can try throwing a favorite toy or treats onto the vinyl floor, enough so your pup’s feet make contact. This places his focus on having fun rather than worrying where he steps. As his confidence grows, sitting yourself on the vinyl floor further helps him forget his fears in order to join his favorite person.

These examples of positive, non-force methods illustrates how giving your puppy the time he needs builds confidence in his own abilities. Conversely, forcing a dog to confront and deal with something he is uncomfortable with, often called “flooding”, can be successful, but much depends on the dog, the issue, and application of the method. Done incorrectly, fears increase rather than decrease. For other than experienced trainers, positive works best.

Filed Under: Dog Information Tagged With: Blender, Floorings, Having Fun, Hesitation, Matter Of Fact, New Addition, Pet Supply Store, Play Area, Professional Trainers, Pup, Puppy Socialization, Rescue Group, Scary Experience, Strange Noises, Television Radio, Unknown Origins, Veterinarian, Vinyl Floor, Vinyl Tile, Youngster

Housetraining: The Link Between Medications & Your Dog’s House-Wetting Accidents

June 9, 2009 by admin Leave a Comment

Some medications cause a dog to drink more and thus produce such copious amounts of urine that the dog can’t wait as long between outdoor breaks or leaks while relaxed. If wetting accidents occur shortly after a dog starts a new medicine, double-check with your veterinarian to see if increased thirst or urination are side effects.

Warning: Don’t abruptly halt the use of a medication without first consulting your dog’s veterinarian. Abrupt cessation could be dangerous.

The most commonly used medications that cause these side effects include:

1) Cortisone-type Medications

This includes prednisone. Veterinarians routinely use cortisones for their anti-allergy and anti-inflammatory effects in a wide variety of conditions. Injectable, oral and topical cortisones such as ear medications or eye drops can cause increased thirst and urination.

2) Phenobarbital

This is the most commonly used anti-seizure medication in veterinary medicine. Side effects may be either temporary or permanent. There has been almost a 90% decrease in urination problems once this medication was stopped. But if your dog must have it to stop seizures then the house-wetting is just something you will have to live with.

3) Thyroid Supplements

If a dog receives more thyroid replacement than needed (their requirements may actually change over time), the dog may experience increased thirst and urination, as well as other side effects, such as GI upset (gastrointestinal), vomiting and/or diarrhea, hyperactivity, restlessness, or weight loss.

How To Take The Correct Steps

Obtaining the accurate diagnosis is an important factor for a successful outcome, regardless of the reason for your dog’s soiling in the house. Treatment and prognosis depend, of course, upon the cause of inappropriate elimination and how severely affected the dog is. Sometimes, finding and addressing the cause is pretty simple and straightforward; other times, it can be challenging and take some time.

The bottom line: If your puppy’s housetraining isn’t going as it should or your adult dog has begun having repeat accidents, before you begin remedial housetraining, check with your veterinarian to make sure there is nothing medically wrong with your pooch.

What will your dog’s veterinarian look for if you come to him or her with a housetraining complaint? A thorough examination and history and checking of a fecal sample. With a young dog, your veterinarian might not do blood work or urinalysis right away unless there are other abnormal signs.

Filed Under: Dog Information Tagged With: Abrupt Cessation, Accurate Diagnosis, Anti Seizure Medication, Copious Amounts, Correct Steps, Cortisone, Eye Drops, Hyperactivity, Inappropriate Elimination, Increased Thirst, Medicine Side Effects, New Medicine, Outdoor Breaks, Phenobarbital, Prednisone, Restlessness, Thyroid Replacement, Urination Problems, Veterinary Medicine, Wetting Accidents

Housetraining: The 3 Most Common Reasons Why Your Dog Is Having Trouble

June 7, 2009 by admin Leave a Comment

Housetraining your dog quickly and easily can only be done by understanding what is causing him to use the bathroom inside the house in the first place. Many times the issues are not what they seem, and in fact the problems are typically connected to behavioral reasons.

Dogs can eliminate inappropriately for a number of behavior-based reasons. However, clinical signs vary for these types of issues and are not always distinguishable between medical problems or housetraining relapses.

For example, urine found on upright objects or in a place out of sight of the owner suggests an intentional marking of a surface. Urine found only in a bed at night could suggest unintentional incontinence, although there are plenty of dogs that make a point of urinating on their beds. And diarrhea could be from a physiological problem but could also be from internal stress in the animal.

A recent poll taken from experts in canine behavior problems around the country, identified the following tips as the most common causes of behavioral elimination:

1) Submissive & Excitement Urination

Submissive and excitement urination may not be under the dog’s control as it is a reaction to a social stimulus. There are lots of submissive and excitement urination in dogs younger than 1 year of age. With this behavior, dogs tend to dribble or wet when their owners come home, when they’re scolded or petted, or in the presence of other dogs.

2) Territorial Marking

Territory marking in the house occurs most often in intact (unneutered) male dogs older than six months of age, although spayed females and neutered males sometimes exhibit this behavior.

Usually, areas are marked with small squirts of urine (seldom feces) in response to a need to claim or reaffirm a territory in the presence of other dogs (including neighborhood dogs and cats seen through a window) or involving household changes (like a new baby or a new spouse).

3) Anxiety

Arousal or increased activity of the dog caused by anxiety can bring about defecation and urination. Dogs with separation anxiety may eliminate with regularity whenever the person to whom the dog is attached is physically separated from the dog.

Fear of noises, novel objects outside or an attack by another animal outside can cause a dog to refuse to go outdoors to eliminate. Some dogs refuse to leave the porch if it is raining or snowing, thus not eliminating when given the opportunity. Some dogs refuse to go in the presence of the owner.

Filed Under: Dog Information Tagged With: Canine Behavior Problems, Clinical Signs, Diarrhea, Dogs And Cats, Dribble, Excitement Urination, Incontinence, Internal Stress, Male Dogs, Medical Problems, Neighborhood Dogs, Out Of Sight, Physiological Problem, Reasons Dogs, Recent Poll, Relapses, Spayed Females, Squirts, Stimulus, Urinating

Puppy Socialization: Introduce Your Dog To The World!

June 5, 2009 by admin Leave a Comment

New puppies soak up information and experiences like a sponge – especially those between the ages of 8 to 12 weeks. This is the ideal time to get your pup out into the open and absorbing positive experiences to help with his socialization.

Say Hello To The Neighbors

Your neighbors and friends are all dying to meet your new precocious pooch. By all means, take your puppy for a walk around the neighborhood. He’ll learn to walk on a loose leash and run into new people and situations. The faster you can introduce your puppy to leash walking the better. That way they see the world on their own four paws, so to speak.

Ask people to meet to gently pet and feed a treat to your pup. Limit interactions to cordial children, good-natured dogs, and responsible adults. It teaches the pup that strangers are good people.

Be careful, though. Until your pup’s immune system has been cranked up by his third set of vaccinations (at 16 to 20 weeks) he’ll be vulnerable to diseases, some potentially deadly.

Another great way to expand your puppy’s circle of friends without making a big scene is to invite a few select dog-savvy adults and children over to greet your puppy. Keep everything low-key and nurturing ? no running, squealing, teasing, tussling or poking. Provide treats liberally.

Field Trips Are Great

From the time you get your puppy until he’s about 16 weeks old, socialization is a high priority. Socialization simply means introducing your puppy to new people, places, experiences and other dogs in a positive way. Well-socialized pups grow up to be happy, well-mannered adults.

Keep in mind that your pup’s sociability and outlook depend on a lot of factors. For instance, recent worming or vaccinations, cutting teeth and a recent, long airplane flight can make your pup tired and grumpy. Exposing your pup to too much at these times can cause him to be overwhelmed and taxed rather than enriched by the experience.

Take your puppy to places where dogs are welcome (don’t forget to bring your cleanup supplies). Try to do five to seven new things each week, like experience stairs, bicycles, people with facial hair or glasses, garbage cans, loud noises, new walking surfaces and work trucks, etc. It’s also a great time to introduce your pup to a grooming routine.

And even when your puppy is older than 16 weeks, it’s still a good idea to continue to actively socialize him until he reaches 12 months of age.

Filed Under: Dog Information Tagged With: Airplane Flight, Circle Of Friends, Diseases, Field Trips, Four Paws, High Priority, Immune System, Loose Leash, Low Key, Neighbors, Pooch, Pup, Puppies, Puppy Dog, Puppy Dogs, Puppy Socialization, Responsible Adults, Sociability, Sponge, Vaccinations

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