Edie MacKenzie

Edie MacKenzie is a published author, traveler, dog lover, and tortoise enthusiast. Passionate about what she does, her books provide peopel a firm grounding in the dog breed and their unique characteristics with a nice touch of humor.

What Type Of Leash Is Best For Your Dog?

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What type of leashes are best for your dog? Well personally, I prefer leather leashes. Nylon leashes have a tendency to cut and burn your hand. They also slip through your hands more easily if your dog suddenly pulls at you. A leather leash gives you more comfortable control. A good dog trainer can look at a leather leash and tell how much the dog owners are working with their puppies. The more they practice, the softer the leash becomes.

Some owners don’t like leather leads because they are more expensive and puppies have a tendency to chew on them during a walk. There is nothing more cute than a puppy carrying his leash while you walk him. If your puppy puts the leash in his mouth during a walk, then let him carry it for a while, but maintain control of it. If he bites too hard on it or really starts to chew, then this is a good time to practice the “Drop it” command. With a firm voice say, “Drop it,” and substitute a stronger motivator to satisfy his needs.

I do not favor chain link leashes. They are hard on your hands when you move up and down the leash to control your dog. The only good purpose to link leashes is if you’re tying your dog outside for a while – dogs can’t chew through them.

I am also not a fan of retractable leads. I feel the owner has little control over a dog or puppy with such a lead. Some owners feel they are giving their dog more exercise and freedom with a retractable lead, since the dog can move ten to fifteen feet ahead of the owner. But accidents easily happen – a biker or runner can quickly go by and if your dog moves toward them, a person can trip on this long lead. Also, it is very difficult to control a dog and gain back the leash quickly if someone is coming toward your dog or if your dog is moving toward them.

A retractable lead is made of wire and you cannot grab on to it. I think the best use for a retractable lead is when you are in a field and want to give some extra lead to your pup so he can run about with a little more freedom. Otherwise, on city streets, I only see it as a nuisance for other people.

Retractable leads also create a problem if your dog gets loose from you. The plastic housing at the end of the lead will bounce along as it trails behind the dog. This can frighten some dogs, particularly noise-sensitive dogs, and they will run that much further away trying to flee from the very sound that they can’t escape.

House Breaking Your Golden Retriever

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Basic Golden Retriever Training

To properly train house break your Golden Retriever, you must stick to a routine regarding your crate, and ensure that he doesn’t spend additional time outside of his crate.  When he is outside of his crate, you should watch him at all times.  If you don’t keep an eye on him when he is outside of the crate and he has an accident inside the house, you can’t blame no one but yourself as you didn’t correct him the second it happened.

To help your dog learn the right way to relieve himself, you should always praise him when he goes to the right location.  You can crate him at night, then take him out when he wakes up in the morning and show him the correct spot.  Give him some time, then praise himself once he starts to go.  If you avoid accidents, you should be able to train your Golden without any problems.  Once accidents begin to happen though, it can be extremely hard to break the pattern.

When you house break your dog, you should never give him any freedom.  Getting it right is a lot of work for him, and chances are he’d rather be doing something else.  If you are tolerant with him and allow him to make mistakes, you’ll find yourself needing to be a lot more stern to break him of the bad habits that you have tolerated and allowed.  If you start when your Golden is young and enforce the rules, he’ll be a happy member of your family in no time at all.

When you house break, you should use confinement as much as possible.  Confinement basically means that until you have housebroken your Golden Retriever, he isn’t allowed to freely move around the house.  You should always keep a watchful eye on him and make sure that if he’s outside the crate – you know where he is at all times and what he is doing.

If you happen to take your eyes off of him even for a second, he could easily relieve himself on the floor.  Once he starts to go on the floor, it can be really hard to break him of this habit.  The smell will be there, and he will smell it the next time he is in that area.  Each time he smells it, he will instantly go to the bathroom in that same area.  The best way to prevent this from happening is to watch him at all times and ensure that he only goes in the area you have for him.

To housebreak your Golden Retriever, you should also allow him a way outside.  Normally, a doggy door is the best way to do this, as your puppy can go outside and relieve himself when the time comes, without disturbing you.  You should also use puppy pads or a litter box inside as well, so that he always has somewhere to relive himself.  During times when he can’t make it outside, he needs somewhere else that he can go.

Housebreaking your Golden Retriever can take you some time, although it will be well worth it once your Golden is properly trained.  He’ll be an essential member of your family, and not use the bathroom anywhere he takes a notion.  He will only relieve himself outside or in an area that you have trained him. Golden Retriever’s need interaction with people, and if you are going to keep them inside – you’ll need to ensure that they have been properly house broken.
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The Best Basic Training
For Your Golden Retriever

If you’d love to discover EXACTLY how to get your dog to stop urinating on
your carpet and actually ring a bell when he needs to potty. . .

Train Golden puppies to NEVER chew on furniture or expensive rugs – even when
you aren’t there to supervise. . .

Learn simple techniques for getting any Golden Retriever to stop barking at
strangers or from begging you to let him back inside – Plus a TON more
step-by-step dog obedience strategies THOUSANDS of regular people are
already using.

Check out Chet Womach & Bauer the Golden Retriever’s-
Hands Off Dog Training

Making Your Home Friendly For Dogs

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Dogs have sharp claws, sharp teeth, and unlimited amount of energy and curiosity.  The combination can be very dangerous, especially when they are left unsupervised.  The following are recommendations that you can take to prevent accidents from happening and to keep your dogs safe around the house.

1.  Keep all garbage cans closed.  If possible, make sure that they are tightly closed and out of reach.  This includes garbage cans inside and outside of your house.  To dogs, the contents of your garbage cans are like a gourmet meal, the smellier it is, the more he will go after it. 

2.  Keep all household products and chemicals out of sight, especially antifreeze and pesticides which are very toxic to pets.  Clean up spills immediately before your dogs get a chance to clean it up himself.

3.  Dogs, especially puppies, will chew and bite into almost anything, including electrical cords.  It is very important to unplug appliances when you are not using them.  You should also cover exposed cords using a strip wide electrical tape which makes them harder to chew.

4.  Keep all medicines and medicine cabinets closed.  Remember that just because they are child-proof does not mean they are pet-proof.

5.  Keep your dogs away from water unless he is supervised.  Although he is capable of swimming, dogs have difficulty climbing back out if they fall.

City Dog Walking – Handling Obstacles and Safety Zones

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Navigating Around Obstacles

Once you start dog walking with your puppy, you will be amazed at the obstacles that will crop up as you walk down the street.

Light posts, parking meters, bus and stop signs, bike rails, waste barrels, fire hydrants, groups of people waiting for a bus or getting off a bus, along with other dogs and people are only some of the dog walking obstacles you and your puppy will face.

These obstacles may not seem like a big deal until you combine them with pedestrians and groups of people congregating on the sidewalk.

And one of the best ways to avoid large groups of oncoming people is to navigate your puppy onto the curb side of lights posts and parking meters.

Moving Obstacles

Also be aware of moving obstacles such as bicyclists, in-line skaters, kids running and dogs walking on or off-leash ahead of their owners. When out dog walking and approaching moving obstacles, don’t have your puppy on a long lead.

You don’t want your puppy or your lead getting wrapped around a moving obstacle.

Your best action with a moving obstacle is to shorten the lead and give it room to pass. Don’t get tense by choking your puppy with too tight of a lead.

Another good optionfor dog walking is to stand still with your puppy and relax while the moving obstacle passes you by.

Safety Zones

A safety zone is any area that widens the space between your puppy and an oncoming object when dog walking.

It can be an entrance way to a store, the curb side of a parking meter, or an area that’s off to the side. The curb side of parking meters are perfect safety zones because most people don’t walk on that part of the sidewalk. Think of safety zones as a way of controlling your space on the street. For example, if you see a couple of kids on bikes racing down the sidewalk or a person running, you can navigate to a safety zone and keep you and your puppy in a safe position. This is the best way to avoid accidents or close calls.

By controlling your space, you also send a strong message to other owners coming by with their dogs that you are protecting yourself and your puppy. You gain control of your space when dog walking and this can diffuse a tense situation, particularly if a full-grown dog does not like your puppy.

You can also use the safety zone method if you see another puppy owner approaching and you are in a hurry and do not wish to spend the time having the puppies mingle with each other. Here’s a good safety tip: Puppies on leashes should never play with each other.

Their leashes will get tangled and you will put your puppy in a precarious situation when you have to drop your lead to get out of this dog walking entanglement.

Adopting Your Dog From A Shelter? Be Prepared To Answer These Questions

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1. What other animals live with you? It’s quite ok to tell them all about your other four-legged buddies! They’ll probably want to know the species, age, gender, size, breed and temperament of any other dog or cat living in your household. This will help the shelter determine what kind of dog will best get along with your furry family members.

2. Are your other animals spayed or neutered? Many shelters won’t adopt a dog to someone with an unaltered dog at home – mostly for practical reasons, and partly on principle. If you have a grown dog who is not yet spayed or neutered, tell the staff that you intend to correct that situation before you introduce another canine into the household. Then make sure you keep your word and do it.

3. Have you had dogs in the past, and where are they now? It may seem like an odd question, but shelter employees can tell a lot from an answer like “I had two dogs who died of natural causes at thirteen and fifteen years old,” as opposed to, say, “I had a dog that ran away and two cats that I gave to a family on a farm when I moved.” A good “track record” with dogs can indicate that you’re an experienced and committed dog lover who’s likely to give a new dog a terrific home.

However, keep in mind that the shelter staff understands that accidents happen and people make mistakes. Even well loved and well-supervised dogs get lost, stolen or hit by cars. If you’ve lost pets under unfortunate circumstances in the past, be honest about it; if you’ve made mistakes but learned from them, tell the shelter employees so. They’re not interested in judging you; they just want to make sure you’ll take good care of the dog you adopt.

What if you’ve never had a dog of your own before? Well, everyone has to start somewhere, and your inexperience doesn’t have to be a disadvantage. If you’ve ever helped care for someone else’s dog or worked with animals (at a vet’s office or an animal shelter, for instance), those are strong points in your favor. And at the very least, you can tell the staff that you’ve been reading up on the subject of dog adoption and dog care!

Housetraining: How To Find Out Why Your Dog Is Having So Many Accidents

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If you are having trouble with housetraining your dog, the quickest way to get around the problem and make a diagnosis is to know your pet’s history. Knowing how your dog has been acting at home yields important information to the veterinarian and helps narrow the diagnosis. Here’s how you can help:

1) For urinary accidents, note if your dog is wetting more often; producing normal, smaller or larger amounts of urine; dribbling while walking; leaking while relaxed or sleeping; or wetting when excited or scared.

2) For fecal accidents, take a sample to the veterinarian. If your dog defecates in front of you, doe she appear to be straining or pooping while he’s walking upright? Look at the stools: Are they loose, runny, firm, hard, blood or mucousy? Are stool volumes less or more often than normal? Is your dog defecating more often?

3) Report any changes you’ve noticed in your dog, such as increased drinking or vomiting; reduced or increased appetite; weight, skin or coat changes; lethargy; panting; anxiety; fear; lameness or difficulty getting up; or reluctance to play or exercise.

4) Think about any changes or new events in your dog’s life that preceded or coincided with his housetraining accidents. A new member in the household? A change in diet, supplements or medications? A frightening event? Be sure to report anything new to your dog’s veterinarian.

Mistake: Do Not Withhold Water

What goes in must come out, so some dog owners might find it tempting to simply reduce the amount of water their dog drinks or withhold water completely at night or while they’re absent.

This could be a very dangerous thing to do. There are medical issues such as kidney problems or urinary tract infections where the dog actually needs to drink more water. Withholding water from a dog with low-grade kidney problems might lead to life-threatening kidney failure.

Depriving a healthy or ill dog of water could also lead to new or worse pre-existing problems. That said, there are some young dogs that just love to drink water, so they wet far more often. In those cases, restricting water to some extent is the only way that the dog can be a happy, functional member of the family. Unfortunately, many dogs do not outgrow this.

If you suspect that your dog is lapping up water because it makes him happy to do so, discuss your suspicions with your veterinarian and get a veterinary exam to rule out any conditions that could cause increased thirst.

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