Edie MacKenzie

Edie MacKenzie is a published author, traveler, dog lover, and tortoise enthusiast. Passionate about what she does, her books provide peopel a firm grounding in the dog breed and their unique characteristics with a nice touch of humor.

Dog Language Info That Will Astound You

January 5, 2012 by admin Leave a Comment

Dogs communicate using a rather unique language. Learning to understanding this “language” will greatly improve the relationship you have with your dog. Not only that, but when it comes to training you will seriously turbo-charge your results by communicating to your dog on his level.

Unfortunately, no-one has yet written a handy reference guide, but by following the guidelines set out below you’ll quickly be up to speed on what your dog is trying to tell you.

Here are some of the most common dog language cues you’ll need to know.

Standing Rigid – When a dog adopts a very rigid stance, he could be telling you to back off and leave him alone. He may also adopt this stance when he is protecting some possession. Give your dog a bone or a biscuit when there are other dogs around and you’ll see what I mean.

Showing the Teeth – Dogs don’t just attack out of the blue, they normally give a warning first. Flashing the teeth may be first warning that a dog is about to attack. Your best bet when this happens is to stand down.

Growling – Showing the teeth will often be accompanied by a low, rumbling growl. If that doesn’t work the dog make well bite.Many people scold or punish the dog for growling or showing its teeth. This is dangerous because if the dog is not allowed to give a warning he may escalate straight to an attack.

Raising the Hackles – When a dog raises the hair on his back, he is trying to look bigger in order to scare off a threat. It is often a sign of heightened fear, and means to dog may attack.

Tail between the legs – Typically, this indicates, timidity, fear or anxiety. There may be a number of causes for the behavior, such as separation anxiety, or being introduced to an unfamiliar person or dog. Often the behavior will be accompanied by submissive urination.

Putting the head down – Depending on the context this could be a attempt by a submissive dog to avoid eye contact. Or it could be a playful gesture.

Raised Paw -A raised paw is a playful gesture, which means, “ let’s be friends”.

Wagging the tail – The tail is one of the dog’s most important communication devices, and the one that is most often misinterpreted. A common belief is that a wagging tail suggests happiness, but this is only true if the tail is being wagged loosely.A tail that is flicked side to side in short rigid movements suggests agitation. And if the tail is tucked between the legs and wagging slightly, the dog is insecure and fearful.

Dogs rely greatly on body language and gestures for communication. A dog may learn to obey voice commands, but in their world body language will always mean more.

Learn to interpret their language and you’ll understand your dog that much better.

Want to discover more about dog training tips, dog care, dog breeds a-z and other interesting dog info? Stop by at www.dogsanddogtraining.com

Filed Under: Dog Information Tagged With: Best Bet, Biscuit, Cues, Dog Training, dog training tips, Dogs, Eye Contact, Fear, First Warning, Gesture, Hackles, Handy Reference Guide, Language Info, Legs, Out Of The Blue, Possession, Relationship, Separation Anxiety, Submissive Urination, Teeth, Timidity, Turbo Charge

The Chesapeake Bay Retriever

February 26, 2011 by admin Leave a Comment

History of The Chesapeake Bay Retriever:

The Chesapeake Bay Retriever is of the British origin and was perfected in 19th century Maryland.  This breed filled the need for a dog that could retrieve ducks all day in the cold, turbulent waters of the Chesapeake Bay.  His greater size and strength gave him an edge over the Labrador Retriever.

Description:
The Chesapeake Bay Retriever stands approximately 21 to 26 inches at the shoulder and weighs between 60 and 90 pounds.  He has a powerful medium- to large-boned structure.  His shedding, water-resistant wavy coat, which is relatively short and easy to maintain, does an excellent job of insulating the dog against cold water.  Regular brushing should keep the coat in good condition.  The color may be brown or tan.

About The Chesapeake Bay Retriever:

This is an intelligent, hardy breed who is an excellent retriever and devoted to his owner.  He is a big, strong dog with great courage and stamina.  He is also an extremely dominant, obstinate dog that requires a strong, no-nonsense leadership.  He is very stubborn and territorial and can be dog-aggressive.  Chesapeakes are not recommended for families with young children because of their physical, controlling demeanor.  They are very suspicious of strangers and are excellent watchdogs.  The owner of a Chessie should start obedience training and socialization as early as possible.  Those who wish to avoid some of the breed’s inherent dominant aggressive behavior would do well choosing a female.  They can suffer from hip dysplasia and bloat.

Feeding:
Recommended feeding for this breed is 1 ½ – 2 ½ cans (13.3oz) of high-quality meaty product with biscuit added in equal amount or 5 cupfuls of a complete, dry dog food.

Ideal home:
The owner of this breed must be a strong, consistent leader from day one. These dogs will quickly fill any lack of leadership, and a spoiling, nurturing owner may be overwhelmed by the time the dog is six months old.  This is not a dog for the elderly or the disabled.  Chessies quickly perceive physical weakness or lack of confidence in an owner and will soon take over.  A house with a fenced yard is mandatory.  If left alone too long, this breed may bark excessively and be very destructive.  Obedience training and socialization with people and dogs should start from the time the puppy arrives home.  If you want a good watchdog that will be affectionate, intelligent, and athletic, and if you have great leadership skills and time to socialize the dog, then you may wish to consider the  Chesapeake Bay Retriever.

Filed Under: Dog Information Tagged With: Aggressive Behavior, Biscuit, Bloat, British Origin, Chesapeake Bay Retriever, Chesapeake Retriever, Chesapeakes, Chessie, Cold Water, Consistent Leader, Demeanor, Dry Dog Food, Hip Dysplasia, Labrador Retriever, Obedience Training, Socialization, These Dogs, Turbulent Waters, Watchdogs, Wavy Coat

The Bearded Collie

February 11, 2011 by admin Leave a Comment

Bearded Collie History and origin:

Believed to be one of the oldest herding dog in Scotland, the Bearded Collie was developed in 17th and 18th century England and Scotland. This breed was used for herding and cattle droving. His weather- resistant coat enables him to withstand harsh, wet climates.

Description:

The Bearded Collie stands 20 to 22 inches at the shoulder and weighs between 45 and 55 pounds. He has an athletic medium-size body and a long, flat, shaggy, shedding coat that mats easily and absorbs odors. Daily brushing and combing as well as regular bathing are essential for this breed. His coat can be kept in a shorter clip to reduce maintenance. His coat may be black or blue-gray with or without white, or it may be fawn or brown, both with or without white. The color may lighten or darken as the dog ages.

About the Bearded Collie:

A natural herder, this beautiful dog is a devoted pet who is friendly, playful and good with children. He is intelligent, active, easily trained, and makes a great show dog. The Bearded Collie is initially reserved with strangers but comes around quickly. This is a sensitive and mildly stubborn breed that responds well to consistent training if the technique is firm but not overbearing. The “Come” command can be the hardest to teach. The Bearded Collie, like most other herding breeds, has a tendency to chase moving objects such as cars, bikes, and joggers. Though reliable with children, he likes to chase them and nip at their heels. Children should not be allowed to play chase games with this breed. The Bearded Collie needs regular exercise. He can excel at competition obedience, agility work, and herding.

Feeding:

Recommended feeding for the Bearded Collie is 1 to 1 ½ cans (13.3oz) of a branded meaty product with biscuit added in the same amount or 3 cupfuls of a complete dry food.

Ideal home:

This breed needs plenty of exercise. A house with a fenced yard is essential. The owner of a Bearded Collie should be a consistent leader who wants an enthusiastic, friendly family dog that can excel in obedience work. Children are fine, provided no chasing or roughhousing is permitted. Spoilers and nervous owners may reduce the dog’s confidence and promote timidity and fear-biting. The elderly and the disabled may have trouble owning this active breed. Time to train, exercise, socialize, and groom the Bearded Collie is important.

Filed Under: Dog Information Tagged With: Agility Work, Bearded Collie, Biscuit, Cans, Cars Bikes, Cattle, Chase Games, Collie, Collie History, Competition Obedience, Dog Ages, Dry Food, Herding Breeds, Joggers, Medium Size, Moving Objects, Obedience Agility, Scotland, Tendency, Wet Climates

The American Foxhound

February 9, 2011 by admin Leave a Comment

History and origin of the American Foxhound

This breed is said to have been derived from a pack of Foxhounds taken from Britain to the United States in 1650. This scent hound was used in packs or individually for fox hunts. He is now mostly used as a competitive field trial dog and a showdog.

Description: The American Foxhound stands 21 to 25 inches at the shoulder and weighs between 55 and 75 pounds. He has a large, strong, athletic body and a short, dense, shedding coat that is stiff to the touch and requires regular brushing with a hound glove. The coat color is black, white, and tan.

About the American Foxhound:

This breed is friendly, lively, and full of stamina. He is a first-rate hunter and does not usually make a great house pet. His high-energy level can drive you nuts. He can be very stubborn and is easily distracted by a scent. He is happiest when doing a task such as tracking, hunting, or doing some other type of field work. The American Foxhound is suspicious of strangers and makes a good watchdog, but he can be dog-aggressive. He is good with your children, but he may knock them down and hurt them while playing. He does not normally exhibit the type of non-thinking aggression common to Bloodhounds and Coonhounds. If left alone, he can be very noisy, restless and destructive. Training and socialization should begin early. As with all hounds, the “Come” command is hard to teach this breed. He is also inclined to be disobedient.

Feeding:

Traditionally, pack members were trenched-fed with horse meat and an oatmeal mash called a “pudding.” They are not fed the day before a hunt. Present day feeding include about 1 ½ cans (13.3oz) of high-quality meaty product with biscuit added in equal part or 5 cupfuls of a complete, dry dog food.

Ideal home for the American Foxhound

The English Foxhound is the perfect breed for a hunter or a very active person. A house in the country with a fenced yard or kennel is important. Children are fine as long as no roughhousing and teasing is allowed. Plenty of directed exercise is needed to avoid restlessness, barking, and digging. The owner must be a firm no-nonsense leader who has time to train, socialize, and exercise the dog. The American Foxhound is not a lap-dog and will not do well with an easygoing, elderly, or disabled owner.

Filed Under: Dog Information Tagged With: American Foxhound, Biscuit, Bloodhounds, Coonhounds, Dry Dog Food, Energy Level, English Foxhound, Field Trial, Foxhound, Foxhound English, Foxhounds, Horse Meat, Hound Glove, Hounds, Mash, Oatmeal, Pack Members, Roug, Scent Hound, Socialization

Puppy Training: Tips And Tricks

April 22, 2010 by admin 1 Comment

Puppies and dogs are such caring and loving beings; their biggest goal is to make you, their master, happy. By nature puppies want to do what you want them to do. The biggest problem with this is the communication barrier.

Dogs can not speak nor can they understand our spoken language. However, through body language, observation, our attitude, and the sounds we make (or words) he will begin to understand what it is we want him to do.

So how do we use this to our advantage? We must do the same things over and over. Repetition will of the same words, body language, and action will help your puppy understand what it is you want him to do.

Plus if you reward him with anything ie lots and lots of praise, a belly rub, a scratch on the head, or a small biscuit he will begin to want to do those things for your attention.

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Now how to we take this and apply it to our training? Simple, decide on a plan and STICK to it. I am amazed at how many pet owners decide on a puppy training plan only to dismiss it and begin another repeatedly, until the puppy is so confused that it will take longer and a lot harder work to train him.

Does it matter what technique or plan we choose? Yes and no. It does not matter because as long as you choose one and stick to it you will be able to train your puppy.

However, it does matter because if you decide on one that requires you to be home 24/7 but you work 8 hours a day, then that plan will not work for you or your puppy.

What are some different techniques I can use? Let me share some basic training techniques with you that should help train your puppy.

But remember not all of these techniques will work for all of you. You must take a look at each plan and then at your own personal situation and see if it matches well.

Technique #1: Potty training

This technique does not actually refer to training your dog to use the toilet (we wish) but is actually teaching him where to go potty.

First you need to decide on where you want him to potty, I am a big fan of outside, but if you are in an apartment you can choose elsewhere.

Then all you need to do is after you pooch eats or drinks, and I mean every time, you need to take him to this designated area until he relieves himself.

Then give him lots of praise and release him.

Technique #2: Sitting

This one is a favorite of mine to teach, it does not take too much work and just about anyone can do it. Your puppy probably already knows that certain things taste better then others, so for this you will need a few tasty treats for him.

Then you let him sniff the treat for a second.

Then you lift the treat about 6 inches over his noise and say sit. Most of the time your puppy will sit in the process of following the treat, then you want to praise him making sure you mention sit again and give him the treat.

After doing this a few times a day, for a week or so, your puppy should be ready to sit without a treat and will eventually sit for you when ever you ask.

For more tips visit Training Puppies for house training techniques or crate training.

Article Source: ArticleSpan

Filed Under: Puppy Training Tagged With: Attention Training, Attitude, Biscuit, Body Language, Choose One, Communication Barrier, Dog Obedience, Dog Training, Loving Beings, Observation, Personal Situation, Pet Owners, Potty Training, Puppies And Dogs, Puppy Training Tips, Repetition, Rugs, Scratch, Spoken Language, Tips And Tricks, Toilet, Train Puppy, Training Dogs, Training Puppies, Urinating

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