Dogs Archives - Page 26 of 29

Dog Training – Use The Right Body Language So Your Dog Understands

June 28, 2010 by admin Leave a Comment

Dogs are highly intelligent creatures and many owners do not give them enough credit when it comes to dog training and how they can read and understand our body language.

Some people have no idea that the body language that we display has a major impact on how well a dog will listen to us and obey our commands. Using the correct form of body language can also quickly stop your dog from displaying an improper behavior.

Let’s use a very common example, such as the overexcited dog who likes to jump on every guest that comes to your door. We all go through this with our puppy or adult dog at some point in time. As soon as the guests arrive your dog is overwhelmed with happiness and excitement about who is at the door and whether or not they are going to play with him.

————————————————————–

Click Here Now to watch Chet’s Free Dog Training Video.

————————————————————–

Do they have dog treats? What do they smell like? Do they want to play? How about I just jump all over them and see? This is exactly what your dog is thinking if we were to decipher his emotional behavior.

And meanwhile, you are giving every command possible to get your dog to stop being so excited and jumping on everyone. You try shouting but it only makes him more excited. You try giving harsh and loud “Off” commands but it’s not working. Eventually, you are so stressed with yelling and trying to pull your dog off that it turns into one big chaotic party.

And yes, the term “party” is a great way to explain it because to your dog you are just joining in on the fun and excitement that he is feeling. Can you see now how your body language and the way you are communicating with her voice comes across to your dog? You are only adding to the situation as opposed to changing our dog’s behavior.

Communicate better with your dog by using the following body language tips

In the above example of the overexcited dog who can’t seem to stop jumping all over the house guests, you understand now that your body language and excitability only made your dog feel more enthused about what it is he was doing. Therefore, you must take a different approach to the situation, regardless of what action you are trying to communicate with your dog. Below are a few basic body language tips that you can use:

1. When you’re angry at your puppy or adult dog, do not chase him around the house. You may be upset with them, but to your puppy, he thinks you’re playing a game and he will run around forever.

2. When you give your dog a command, display a very bold and upright body position. Stand up, chest forward, and head back. Your dog will have more respect and a slight bit of intimidation, which can help with training him.

3. If your dog is extremely excited then do not add to the problem by getting feisty. Instead, move slowly and talk in a soothing tone of voice. Display the same behavior you wish him to use.

Doing so will calm him down and it will be much easier to change his behavior. during your dog training

City Dog Walking – Handling Obstacles and Safety Zones

June 22, 2010 by admin Leave a Comment

Navigating Around Obstacles

Once you start dog walking with your puppy, you will be amazed at the obstacles that will crop up as you walk down the street.

Light posts, parking meters, bus and stop signs, bike rails, waste barrels, fire hydrants, groups of people waiting for a bus or getting off a bus, along with other dogs and people are only some of the dog walking obstacles you and your puppy will face.

These obstacles may not seem like a big deal until you combine them with pedestrians and groups of people congregating on the sidewalk.

And one of the best ways to avoid large groups of oncoming people is to navigate your puppy onto the curb side of lights posts and parking meters.

Moving Obstacles

Also be aware of moving obstacles such as bicyclists, in-line skaters, kids running and dogs walking on or off-leash ahead of their owners. When out dog walking and approaching moving obstacles, don’t have your puppy on a long lead.

You don’t want your puppy or your lead getting wrapped around a moving obstacle.

Your best action with a moving obstacle is to shorten the lead and give it room to pass. Don’t get tense by choking your puppy with too tight of a lead.

Another good optionfor dog walking is to stand still with your puppy and relax while the moving obstacle passes you by.

Safety Zones

A safety zone is any area that widens the space between your puppy and an oncoming object when dog walking.

It can be an entrance way to a store, the curb side of a parking meter, or an area that’s off to the side. The curb side of parking meters are perfect safety zones because most people don’t walk on that part of the sidewalk. Think of safety zones as a way of controlling your space on the street. For example, if you see a couple of kids on bikes racing down the sidewalk or a person running, you can navigate to a safety zone and keep you and your puppy in a safe position. This is the best way to avoid accidents or close calls.

By controlling your space, you also send a strong message to other owners coming by with their dogs that you are protecting yourself and your puppy. You gain control of your space when dog walking and this can diffuse a tense situation, particularly if a full-grown dog does not like your puppy.

You can also use the safety zone method if you see another puppy owner approaching and you are in a hurry and do not wish to spend the time having the puppies mingle with each other. Here’s a good safety tip: Puppies on leashes should never play with each other.

Their leashes will get tangled and you will put your puppy in a precarious situation when you have to drop your lead to get out of this dog walking entanglement.

Dog Behavior – You Can’t Resist A Lovable Dog Who Asks For A Belly Rub

June 19, 2010 by admin Leave a Comment

If there’s such a thing as a universal pleasure center regarding dog behavior among dogs, it’s the belly.

The skin on their bellies is thinner than skin elsewhere, and there’s not a lot of fur.

As a result, the belly is exquisitely sensitive to touch. Dogs enjoy physical affection just like we do.

A dog who’s getting his belly rubbed enjoys the attention.

He likes the nice sensations. And he likes knowing he can attract people like a magnet just by rolling over and putting his feet in the air.

It’s A Trust Factor

Dogs use body language to convey very specific messages. As a dog behavior, rolling on their backs and exposing their bellies is a sure sign of submission.

It’s a way of telling other dogs, “I’m at your mercy; do what you will.” A dog who’s being threatened and wants to avoid a fight will expose his belly to signal his noncombatant status. Conversely, a dog who’s at peace and relaxed will go belly up just because he feels safe to do so.

That position is the ultimate dog behavior regarding vulnerability.

People only reveal their softer sides to those they love and trust. It’s the same with dogs. It takes a lot of trust for them to expose their bellies in front of people, and that’s one of the reasons that belly rubs are such blissful experiences.

When your dog looks at you, lies down, and flops over for a belly rub, that says something about the relationship you have with him. It tells you that your dog knows that you are in charge, that he loves and trusts you, and that he’s happy with that arrangement.

The unique thing about this behavior is that it presents one of the few opportunities that dogs have to set the agenda.

It’s usually the people who decide when to spend time with their dogs. We choose when we’ll go for a walk, when we’ll take a ride in the car, when we’ll sit on the deck and throw tennis balls.

But here’s an opportunity for dogs to say, “I’d like to spend some time with you now.” They know that their people will be more than happy to comply.

Selective Love

Some dogs are promiscuous with their affection. They’ll roll over for anyone at just about any time. This is especially true of Labrador retrievers, who are known for their people-pleasing personalities.

It’s not uncommon, in fact, for Labradors to walk around a room, pause in front of each person they come to, and flop onto their backs.

Other dogs are much more cautious about revealing themselves. It’s not a matter of love or affection, just one of temperament. There are dogs who love you but who just don’t want to be that vulnerable.

Akitas, for example, are known for being independent and somewhat reserved. They’re less likely than most dogs to ask for or even tolerate a belly rub.

This dog behavior is true of huskies, Alaskan malamutes, and other breeds with strong, assertive personalities.

Dog Grooming – 3 Ways To Dry Their Coat

June 11, 2010 by admin Leave a Comment

There are three methods when dog grooming that can be applied to properly dry the coat, depending on the breed of dog you are working with.

These are: The fluff-dry method, the cage drying method, and the towel-dry method.

The first method and perhaps the most difficult to achieve is the fluff-dry method. A high-speed floor dryer is used for this procedure.

This method of drying is a very important and crucial step in proper dog grooming for certain breeds such as the Poodle, Afghan, Old English Sheepdog, and Maltese.

In fluff drying, the hair is not only dried but should be straightened as well. The warm air from the dryer is directed at that portion of the coat which you are drying. The hair is brushed in an upward motion with quick, even strokes until the hair in that particular spot is dry and straight.

This dog grooming procedure is carried out over the entire coat until it is completely dry. The results of a fluff dry can sometimes determine the overall appearance of the completed grooming job.

Therefore, it is important to learn to give a proper fluff dry. Special attention should be given to the areas of the head, ears (long-haired ears), and legs.

The second method of drying is known as cage or kennel drying and is usually used on short-coated dogs or on dogs whose coat does not require a fluffed or straight appearance.

When using this method of drying, a cage dryer is attached to the cage and the dog is put into the cage on a towel until he is dry. It is important to make sure the cage is properly ventilated on the top as well as on the sides. Otherwise, the dog may suffocate.

If the dog is too large for the cage, he may be placed on a dog grooming table and dried with a floor dryer.

Another method of drying that is commonly used in drying small breeds is the towel drying method.

Towel drying is usually used with small, short-haired breeds such as the Chihuahua, Miniature Pinscher, and Toy Manchester Terrier. The coat is rubbed briskly with the towel until it is dry.

This method is rarely used because many owners when dog grooming prefer the cage drying method, which is much faster. However, if the special equipment is not available in the home, this method is sufficient.

However, a god dog grooming principle is – do not to take the dog out until you are sure the coat and skin are thoroughly dried.

Muscle Atrophy In The Older Dog

June 10, 2010 by admin Leave a Comment

The muscles of mos tolder dogs lose much of their strength and actually decrease in size with each advancing year.

This is a normal part of the aging process and is to be expected. However, there are two as yet poorly understood muscle disorders which at first may look like normal aging weakness.

In one the older dog develops weakness in the leg muscles during periods of exercise or other physical stress, may fall down briefly, seem to recover, get up for a short time only to fall down again.

This is often seen in polymyositis, a disease which causes inflammation of any or all muscles in the body.

Polymyositis occurs mostly in late middle age and early old age, the most common of its several possible causes appearing to be a defect in the dog’s immune mechanism.

Treatment with corticosteroids is quite successful despite the often alarming appearance of the older dog.

Occasionally the muscles of the esophagus are affected, making swallowing difficult, but even these respond.

Muscular dystrophy, the second disorder, occurs mainly in older dogs, bears some similarity to muscular dystrophy in people, and has a cause as yet unknown. Affected dogs develop a stiff gait as the muscles become progressively weaker and smaller in size.

There is nothing we know of which will stop the deterioration or cure the disease. Treatment is palliative, trying to keep the patient as comfortable as possible, and is based on your older dog individual symptoms.

First Aid – How To Bandage Your Dog’s Ear Wound

June 9, 2010 by admin Leave a Comment

The most common injuries that happen to our dogs involve the head area. And it is the ears that are most frequently torn in dogfights. The ears also tend to bleed profusely. So if your dog comes back injured with an ear wound, then take the following three simple steps to bandaging the area:

1. First make sure that your dog is calm from whatever fight he got into. Then clean the wound with warm water and a light disinfectant. Be sure not to get any hair or other small particles inside the wounded area.

2. Next, wrap the ear with a bandage. You should have plenty of bandage material from your emergency first aid kit but a cloth or shirt will do just fine. Wind the bandage around the head to keep it secure and to prevent the ear from bleeding when the dog shakes his head.

3. Continue with bandaging his ear by wrapping it around his head over and over until it is secure. Avoid putting any unnecessary pressure on the windpipe. If need be, you want to use what is called an “Elizabethan Collar”. Now get your dog to the vet immediately for further medical attention.

Recent Blog Posts