Hounds Archives - Edie MacKenzie

Basset Hound Dog Breed Info

January 1, 2012 by admin Leave a Comment

With its adorable, droopy expression, long ears and waddling walk, the Basset is an easy dog to spot. These loveable dogs have a long history and are believed to descend from the Ardennes St. Hubert hounds. They were brought to Britain by the Norman invaders in 1066, and it was in Britain that they were bred with other hounds to increase their size.

The name, Basset ,derives from “bas”, which means low in French.

The Basset is one of the sweetest of all dogs. They are extremely loving with a real enjoyment of human company. They get on well with everyone, are even tempered and affectionate towards children and have no problem with other dogs, or even cats for that matter.

With their happy nature and comedic character it is easy to forget that they are also exceptional hunting and tracking dogs. These days though, it is more common to see a Basset as a family pet than in the field.

Grooming a Basset Hound is a relatively simple task. The coat is short and requires only a brush down a couple of times a week to keep it looking its best.

The ears also need special attention, because they are prone to fungal and bacterial infections. A wipe down with a damp cloth and drying them after is usually all that is needed to keep them clean.

You may also need to clip the dog’s nails every once in a while. This is a task many dog owners shy away from, but it needs to be done, so if you’re not up to it ask your vet or local dog groomer.

Bassets are famously difficult to train. Like most of the hound group they’ve been bred to think for themselves, so they don’t just follow orders blindly. You will need to be consistent in your efforts, but always keep it positive as Bassets are very sensitive and harsh treatment will damage the bond you’ve built up with your dog.

You’ll need a lot of patience to train a Basset as they are easily distracted, especially if they pick up an interesting scent to follow. But persistence wins the day, so stick with it and you’ll see results. Bassets love to eat, so using really tasty treats will definitely help your training efforts.

Unfortunately, their love of food can translate to a number of obesity related diseases. A common concern with overweight Basset Hounds is vertebral problems, as the extra weight puts strain on the spine. Other health concerns include foreleg lameness, entropion, gastric torsion, and cysts on the paws. They may also be prone to osteochondrosis.

Bassets can be somewhat lethargic, but you must ensure that they get daily exercise to keep them in shape.If you’re looking for an affectionate, sweet-natured dog that is just a joy to be around, look no further than the Basset.

Picking a name for your Basset can be a challenge. The best advice is to visit some of the many dog names, sites online. My recommendation is puppy-names-hq.com, which has a huge database, including thousands of female dog names.

How Can I Make My Dog Stop Barking??

August 24, 2011 by admin Leave a Comment

Why do dogs bark?

Breed – some dogs were bred to bark such as hounds and dogs used as guards

Frustration – energy not burned by appropriate exercise can manifest itself in barking

Emotional need – boredom, anxiety, excitement

Attention – barking will get them attention – whether it is good or bad

Noise – dogs, people, thunder, cars, horns, doorbells, fireworks etc….

Physical need – hungry, needs to eliminate

Barking can be one of the most difficult behaviors to modify. It is a self rewarding activity meaning the act of barking is its own reward in many instances. Barking is also an normal and innate behavior, meaning barking is in a dog’s genetic makeup. A basic foundation of obedience training is a must! Excessive barking, really is not the problem, it is a symptom. To cure the symptom, we must find out why he is barking to decrease the occurance and teach him to stop barking when you say.

Leaving your dog in the back yard while you are away can lead to boredom, excited or anxious barking. Excessive barking outdoors may lead to lawsuits. It may be best to leave your dog inside or in a crate if necessary to prevent the annoyance to your neighbors. If your dog is barking in the back yard, try leaving then sneaking back to a spot where you can watch your dog without him knowing you are there and observe when he is barking. Is he barking at something he sees or hears or is he barking just for the sake of barking? If you see that he is barking AT something, the first thing to do is try to prevent the dog from seeing or hearing the things that are triggering his barking. If he is barking for the sake of barking, that is something entirely different.

Is he bored? Make sure he has plenty of toys that you can rotate on a daily basis. Chew toys that can be stuffed with a yummy filling then frozen can keep your dog busy. Hiding different toys around the back yard or in the house can also keep him busy looking for the next toy (this is not recommended for dogs that are destructive). Interactive toys that make noise, have food stuffed in them or can be pushed around for treats to fall out of are all great ways to keep him busy.

I believe dog training should be fun, rewarding and exciting for both the dog and the human. I take a scientific approach to training and train through love, kindness and respect with clearly defined rules and boundaries and get fabulous results. I have been a trainer for 20 years, graduated from Animal Behavior College (ABCDT), I am certified through Association of Professional Dog Trainers/Certification Counsel for Professional Dog Trainers (CPDT-KA) and the International Association of Canine Professionals (CDT). I am the founder and president of HEARTland Positive Dog Training Alliance; a group of pet professionals and dog owners dedicated to positive reinforcement training.

More Dog Sounds And What They Mean

March 25, 2011 by admin Leave a Comment

Soft whimpering: “I hurt!” “I’m scared.” The average person is most likely to hear this at the veterinarian’s office, when the dog is suffering, or when a submissive dog is in a strange place that appears threatening. This is really a carryover of the mewing sound that young puppies make when cold, hungry, or distressed.

Louder, more prolonged whining sound: “Please give me . . .” or “I want …” A dog usually uses this sound when waiting for food, or for the leash to be put on, or when trying to get his owner’s attention, and so forth.

Sighs: This vocalization, which is invariably accompanied by the dog’s lying down with his head on his forepaws, can have two meanings, depending on the context and certain facial expressions. With eyes half-closed, it is a sign of pleasure, meaning “I am content and am going to settle down here.” With eyes fully open, it is a sign of disappointment when something anticipated has not materialized, best interpreted as “I give up!”

Baying: This is the characteristic sound of hounds during a hunt. It is usually interpreted as “Follow me!” “Let us get him!” or “All together now!”

Yip-howl: This is really more of a yip-yip-yip-howl, with the final howl quite prolonged. It usually means “I am lonely” “I feel abandoned!” or “Is anybody there?”

Howling: “I am here!” “This is my territory!” or “I hear you out there!” A confident animal will often howl simply to announce his presence. Howling also often occurs in response to a yip-howl from another dog. It has a more sonorous sound to the human ear than does the yip-howl, which is often described as mournful.

Moaning: This sounds something like “ar-owl-wowl-wowl . . .” over a short interval of time. It is a sound of spontaneous pleasure and excitement that means “I am excited!” or “Let us play!” A dog usually moans when something he really likes is about to happen.

Panting: “Let us go!” This is a sign of excitement.

Dogs can also learn specific vocalizations. For instance, the bark that dogs give to the command speak sounds qualitatively different from a spontaneous bark. The same can be said for the bark that police and protection dogs learn to give. Your dog can even be taught specific sounds for specific settings, ranging from simple barks, moans, or play-growls to more complex sounds that may sound like yodels or attempts at speech.

The American Foxhound

February 9, 2011 by admin Leave a Comment

History and origin of the American Foxhound

This breed is said to have been derived from a pack of Foxhounds taken from Britain to the United States in 1650. This scent hound was used in packs or individually for fox hunts. He is now mostly used as a competitive field trial dog and a showdog.

Description: The American Foxhound stands 21 to 25 inches at the shoulder and weighs between 55 and 75 pounds. He has a large, strong, athletic body and a short, dense, shedding coat that is stiff to the touch and requires regular brushing with a hound glove. The coat color is black, white, and tan.

About the American Foxhound:

This breed is friendly, lively, and full of stamina. He is a first-rate hunter and does not usually make a great house pet. His high-energy level can drive you nuts. He can be very stubborn and is easily distracted by a scent. He is happiest when doing a task such as tracking, hunting, or doing some other type of field work. The American Foxhound is suspicious of strangers and makes a good watchdog, but he can be dog-aggressive. He is good with your children, but he may knock them down and hurt them while playing. He does not normally exhibit the type of non-thinking aggression common to Bloodhounds and Coonhounds. If left alone, he can be very noisy, restless and destructive. Training and socialization should begin early. As with all hounds, the “Come” command is hard to teach this breed. He is also inclined to be disobedient.

Feeding:

Traditionally, pack members were trenched-fed with horse meat and an oatmeal mash called a “pudding.” They are not fed the day before a hunt. Present day feeding include about 1 ½ cans (13.3oz) of high-quality meaty product with biscuit added in equal part or 5 cupfuls of a complete, dry dog food.

Ideal home for the American Foxhound

The English Foxhound is the perfect breed for a hunter or a very active person. A house in the country with a fenced yard or kennel is important. Children are fine as long as no roughhousing and teasing is allowed. Plenty of directed exercise is needed to avoid restlessness, barking, and digging. The owner must be a firm no-nonsense leader who has time to train, socialize, and exercise the dog. The American Foxhound is not a lap-dog and will not do well with an easygoing, elderly, or disabled owner.

Description Of A Labrador Retriever: Part 2

January 20, 2011 by admin Leave a Comment

It is important for the Labrador Retriever to be well balanced. He should not be as tall and thin as a pointer, and he should not be as short and fat as a potbellied pig. No one feature should be so prominent as to detract from the total picture. If you look at a Labrador and notice only his huge head, the dog is probably unbalanced. If you look at a Labrador and see only his big feet or a long scraggly tail, you are probably not looking at a good specimen of the breed.

The Labrador Retriever ears should be set off the side of the skull, not too high and not too low. They should be of medium size, hanging so that the bottom tips are about two inches below the eyes. The ears should not be so big or so small that they draw attention to themselves. And they should never be long or folded as they are on many hounds.

The Labrador Retriever eyes are where we see that irresistible, sweet, kind and alert expression. Some are shaped like a rounded diamond. Although some round eyes can be attractive, they should not resemble the round eyes of a Cocker Spaniel, nor should they be too almond-shaped. A good color would be a warm brown-eye on all three colors (black, yellow or chocolate), maybe a bit darker on a yellow Labrador Retriever. If the eyes are too light, the dog’s expression will be ruined.

There should never be a harsh or mean look about a Labrador. When you look into a Lab’s eyes, you should feel instant friendliness. Usually, the moment your eyes meet, the Lab’s powerful tail starts wagging automatically.

The desirable Labrador Retriever head should sit on a strong neck of medium length. If the neck is too short, the dog looks as if his head is sitting on his shoulders; if the neck is too long, the dog appears elegant, like a setter, which is not correct. There is nothing elegant about this dog. He is agile, strong, and sturdy. As you continue down the neck, past the withers, the top line (the back) should be rather level, never sway-back or sloping to the degree that a Setter’s back does from the neck to the rump.

The Labrador Retriever chest should be deep with well-sprung ribs like a barrel. The shoulders should be long and sloping. The correct look requires long bones that form a ninety-degree angle as you look at the dog from the side, from the withers, to the sternum, to the elbow.

The front legs of a Labrador Retriever are well underneath the dog, allowing a prominent breastbone to show and creating the picture of a powerful chest.

History and origin of the American Foxhound

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