Edie MacKenzie

Edie MacKenzie is a published author, traveler, dog lover, and tortoise enthusiast. Passionate about what she does, her books provide peopel a firm grounding in the dog breed and their unique characteristics with a nice touch of humor.

Successful Sled Dog Training

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Before sled dog training, you must know about the sled dog. Sled dogs are those dogs which are used for pulling the special vehicles which do not have wheels on the ice. Sled dogs have the God gifted ability to run on the ice. Sled dogs usually do not slip on the snow. They feel excitement and try to run as fast as they can on the snow. Sled dogs feel happy when they run on the snow and have ability to transfer the heavy goods through special vehicles from one place to another.

For training, it is better to bring up the dogs in the form of groups and instead of bringing them up a alone. They must be brought up on the open places and must have enough space to run. It is necessary to make the training successful so that you can hold running competitions for your dogs daily. Pamper the one who wins the race and give it more attention on that day. It will assist other sled dogs to run more and all of them will try to increase their running speed and so, your sled training continues successfully as one of the major targets is that you should do efforts for increasing their speed.

Give proper food to the sled dog during training. You should give it such a food which may make it healthy and may not feel tired too soon after pulling the vehicle for short time. Sled dog’s food must have all necessary nutrients in it. It is better to buy the packed food from the market during training as it contains all necessary elements in it which are necessary for the proper growth of the sled dog. Nutrition plays a big role in how successful your dog will be. Properly balanced food delivered at the correct intervals can have a dramatic affect on your dog’s performance not only in its ability to work hard and fast for long periods of time but also with health. A healthy dog will live longer and not suffer from illnesses.

If you feel that your younger sled dog does not run fast even in the groups, you should do younger dog training in between the already trained dogs. When it will see that rest of sled dogs run faster than it, it will surely try to run as fast as it would be possible for it. You should take care of the fact that rest of sled dogs may not try to beat younger sled dog. If rest of dogs tries to be frank with the younger dog, it will learn more from them during training.

Another method for the successful training is that you should be frank with your dog. Try to spend more time daily with it and try to be its friend. When you become its friend, it will obey you more and will follow your instructions happily. In this way, you can teach it more and more in short time during successful training. Give it full attention in every single matter during sled dog training.

Andy Ayres is a dog training specialist and helps dog owners solve problems with their pets. If you want to stop your dog’s excessive barking then learn how a bark collar can help or look here for the most popular bark collars.

Article Source: Successful Sled dog training

Dog Health – A Look At Whelping

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Whilst the natural process of birth is in no way an emergency, and if normal does not require any assistance or first-aid measures, a number of variations of, or from, the normal may arise. Some of these may amount to actual abnormality and need professional attendance, or perhaps assistance from the owner. The following comments are intended to help the inexperienced to distinguish between normal and abnormal, between the natural physiological process and pathological complications. Even quite experienced breeders often find this aspect of whelping difficult to grasp.

The uncertainty of risking the puppies’ lives and the danger of harm to the bitch, creates a large problem in their minds. Generally speaking, it is better to consult your veterinary surgeon too early rather than to delay too long as the chance of survival of mother and young will then be proportionally greater.

If surgical interference is necessary it is the fit animal which will stand the best chances, not the exhausted bitch. Any surgical action which is required should be left strictly to the veterinary surgeon; on no account should the owner attempt, or permit anyone else to attempt, delivery by the use of forceps, etc.

The first signs of parturition are restlessness, “bed-making”, and often, refusal of food. There is usually a pronounced fall in body temperature (about 98F.) twenty-four hours or so before whelping. Shivering and panting are usual, and these signs are all quite normal. Within several hours of the beginning of these symptoms actual labour will begin. The contractions of the womb or uterus will start and at this stage the bitch will show signs of periodic acute discomfort, heaving, straining and panting.

These spasms will become more frequent and sustained as the whelping process goes on. It is important to note the time when the first real labour pains (i.e., straining) are seen as much depends on the intervals between beginning of symptoms and appearance, or non-appearance, of puppies.

The first thing that is noticed in a normal whelping is the water bag, which may be seen only as a sudden expulsion of fluid, as it ruptures, or is ruptured by the bitch. If this sign has not been seen after 1 hour from time of labour it is wise to make sure that all is going well.

This can be done only by a vaginal examination with a well-scrubbed and soaped finger. Gently insert the finger into the vagina, and the puppy should be felt in the pelvic cavity, i.e., within a few inches of the vulva. Do not push or probe about if the puppy can be felt. Leave the bitch for 15-20 minutes; then, if no puppy has been born, re-examine the bitch. If the puppy has not moved further down towards the vulva, or if at the first examination no puppy or water bag could be felt, call your veterinary surgeon. These time limits are conservative; some bitches are slower than this but are nevertheless quite normal.

Generally speaking, however, the time limits stated should not be greatly exceeded. The first puppy is usually followed within 20 minutes-1 hour by the second, and so on until the whole litter has arrived. The bitch may rest for a few minutes after having, say, 2 or 3 puppies, and of course this time should not be counted when deciding how matters are going. Complications are therefore best assessed by judging the time delays involved, supplemented when necessary by gentle vaginal exploration.

One complication, uterine inertia, is seen occasionally. If this is suspected your veterinary surgeon should be informed straight away.
This takes two main forms:
(a) The bitch will go through all the routine of bed making, etc., and then, after a little abdominal discomfort, show no further signs of labour or uterine contractions. This is known as primary uterine inertia.

(b) The bitch may show signs of straining, often quite good to begin with but becoming weaker and fewer, without the appearance of the puppy. This is called secondary uterine inertia. Both these types of uterine inertia require skilled attention, which may or may not involve surgical assistance. One of the predisposing causes of uterine inertia, or “going to sleep on the job”, is over-fatness, and bitches should be kept in a fit, properly exercised state right up to the actual day of whelping. Certain medical conditions also predispose or cause this lack of uterine tone, but search for the cause and the necessary treatment should be left to the expert.

Attention to puppies

Puppies will not usually require attention from the owner of a normal bitch, who has whelped successfully by herself. However, in short-nosed breeds, e.g., Pekinese, King Charles spaniels and English Bulldogs, it is sometimes necessary to attend to the umbilical cord, if the puppy is born intact, or attached to the foetal sac (or “puppy-bag”) as the membranes in which the puppy lies when in the womb are called. The cord should be tied off about a quarter to half inch from the puppy’s navel with sterile cotton (i.e., boiled cotton) and the membrane or “bag” side of the cord cut with sterilised scissors. The stump should then be dabbed with tincture of iodine.

Lifeless puppies

Occasionally a puppy that has been delayed in birth does not gasp when born. The mouth should be opened with a finger and the spine given a brisk rubbing with a dry towel. A little cold water on the nape of the neck will help to stimulate a reflex inspiration. If mucus is in the mouth wipe this away with a little moistened cotton wool and blow sharply into the opened mouth. A drop of brandy on the tongue will also produce a reflex inhalation and is a useful stimulant for a weakly pup. When the puppy is breathing regularly, but not before, place him on a towel or blanket, near a hot water-bottle. A drop of brandy may be given every 20-30 minutes until he can be suckled by the bitch.

Discover a lot more about keeping your dog healthy at dog health

Article Source: Dog Health – A Look At Whelping

Dog Barking & What They’re Trying To Say

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1. Continuous rapid barking, mid-range pitch: “Call the pack! There is a potential problem! Someone is coming into our territory!” Continuous barking but a bit slower and pitched lower: “The intruder [or danger] is very close. Get ready to defend yourself!”

2. Barking in rapid strings of three or four with pauses in between, mid-range pitch: “I suspect that there may be a problem or an intruder near our territory. I think that the leader of the pack should look into it.”

3. Prolonged or incessant barking, with moderate to long intervals between each utterance: “Is there anybody there? I’m lonely and need companionship.” This is most often the response to confinement or being left alone for long periods of time.

4. One or two sharp short barks, midrange pitch: “Hello there!” This is the most typical greeting sound.

5. Single sharp short bark, lower midrange pitch: “Stop that!” This is often given by a mother dog when disciplining her puppies but may also indicate annoyance in any dog, such as when disturbed from sleep or if hair is pulled during grooming and so forth.

6. Single sharp short bark, higher midrange: “What’s this?” or “Huh?” This is a startled or surprised sound. If it is repeated two or three times its meaning changes to “Come look at this!” alerting the pack to a novel event. This same type of bark, but not quite as short and
sharp, is used to mean “Come here!” Many dogs will use this kind of bark at the door to indicate that they want to go out. Lowering the pitch to a relaxed midrange means “Terrific!” or some other similar expletive, such as “Oh, great!” My cairn terrier, for example, who loves to jump, will give this single bark of joy when sent over the high jump. Other dogs give this same bark when given their food dish.

7. Single yelp or very short high-pitched bark: “Ouch!” This is in response to a sudden, unexpected pain.

8. Series of yelps: “I’m hurting!” “I’m really scared” This is in response to severe fear and pain.

9. Stutter-bark, mid-range pitch: If a dog’s bark were spelled “ruff,” the stutter-bark would be spelled “ar-ruff.” It means “Let’s play!” and is used to initiate playing behavior.

10. Rising bark: This is a bit hard to describe, although once you’ve heard it, it is unmistakable. It is usually a series of barks, each of which starts in the middle range but rises sharply in pitch – almost a bark-yelp, though not quite that high. It is a play barking, used during rough-and- tumble games, that shows excitement and translates as “This is fun!”

House Training Your Dalmatian

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When house training your Dalmatian puppy, you will need to take him out frequently and at regular intervals: first thing in the morning directly from the crate, right after meals, after the puppy has been napping, or when you notice that the puppy is looking for a spot.  Choose more or less the same place to take the puppy each time in order to establish a pattern.

If he does not go immediately, do not return your Dalmatian to the house because he will probably relieve himself the moment he is inside.  Stay out with him until he has finished; then be generous with your praise for his good behavior.  If you catch your Dalmatian puppy having an accident indoors, grab him firmly and rush him outside, sharply saying “No!” as you pick him up.

If you do not see the accident occur, there is little point in doing anything except cleaning it up, because once it has happened and been forgotten, the puppy will most likely not even realize why you are scolding him.

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If you live in a big city or are away many hours at a time, having a Dalmatian that is trained to go on paper has some very good advantages.  In order to do this,  proceed the same way as taking the puppy outdoors, except this time you place the puppy on the newspaper at the proper time.  The paper should always be kept in the same area.  An easy way to paper train a puppy if you have a playpen is to line the area with newspapers; then gradually remove a section of it until you are down to just one or two. The puppy acquires the habit of using the paper; and as the prepared area grows smaller, the dog will usually continue to use whatever paper is still available.  It is pleasant, if the dog is alone for a long period of time to be able to feel that if he needs it the paper is there and will be used.

The Dalmatian puppy should form the habit of spending a certain amount of time in his crate, even when you are home. Sometimes the puppy will do this “voluntarily, but if not, he needs to learn to do so, which is done by leading him over by his collar, gently pushing him inside, and saying firmly, “Down” or “Stay.”  Whatever expression you use to give a command, stick to the very same one each time for each act.  Repetition is very important in training as well as association with what the Dalmatian is expected to do.  When you mean “Sit” always say exactly that.  “Stay” should mean only that the dog should remain where he receives the command. “Down” means something else again.

Do not confuse the dog by shuffling the commands, because this will create training problems for you.  As soon as he had his shots, take your puppy with you whenever and wherever you can.  Nothing builds a self-confident, stable Dalmatian like socialization, and it is very important that you plan and have the time and energy to do this.

Is Carsickness A Problem For Your Dog?

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Some puppies get carsick just the same as many small children do. If you depend on a car for most of your transportation, you will want to help your puppy overcome carsickness as quickly and easily as possible. You can do a number of things to help your puppy avoid or overcome carsickness.

From the start, help your puppy form a positive association with the car. Without starting the engine, sit in the car with your puppy on your lap for a few minutes every day. Praise and pet your pup. After a week of this, start the motor. Place your pup on the seat next to you. Pet and praise him, making the experience agreeable. After a week of repeating this once a day, get a friend or relative to go in the car with you for a daily ride. Be sure that your puppy has an empty stomach and has had the chance to eliminate before getting into the car. Have your helper sit the dog on his or her lap. The helper must not allow the pup to squirm and wiggle around.

Take a short ride around the block. Each week increase slightly the distance that you travel. (One-week intervals for each of these steps are not cast in stone. Shorten or lengthen the time depending on your pup’s reaction.) Be sure that when you ride with your puppy, you have someone in the car to help control him. If that’s not possible, put the puppy in a crate in the car.

Do not let your puppy ride on the driver’s lap or crawl under his or her legs. This can become a bad habit and is very dangerous. Once your puppy begins obedience training and understands to lie down and stay, employ this exercise in the car when traveling. Associate trips in the car with fun. Every car ride should not end up at the veterinarian, groomer, or boarding kennel. Use the car to take your dog to the beach, park, or woods.

Most puppies, like most children, outgrow carsickness. In the interim, doing the right things can minimize messes, limit nervousness, and shorten the time it takes for your dog to learn that car rides can be a lot of fun. If none of the above steps seems to help, contact your veterinarian. He or she can provide medical solutions, such as mild tranquilizers, that will help avert sickness when the dog must travel in the car.

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