Edie MacKenzie

Edie MacKenzie is a published author, traveler, dog lover, and tortoise enthusiast. Passionate about what she does, her books provide peopel a firm grounding in the dog breed and their unique characteristics with a nice touch of humor.

The Alaskan Malamute

February 3, 2011 by admin 2 Comments

History and origin: The Alaskan Malamute is named after a native tribe called the “Mahlemuts.”  He is closely related to other Spitz-types such as the Samoyed and has been used as a sled dog.  Bred for strength, endurance, and independence, he has the ability to tolerate extremely low temperatures.  Today the Alaskan Malamute is used in sled-pulling competitions, some being able to pull a sled weighing close to a ton.

Description: The Alaskan Malamute stands 23 to 26 inches at the shoulder and usually weighs 75 to 125 pounds, while some are even larger.  He is thick-boned and has a large, muscular body.  The weather-resistant coat is thick, heavy, and of medium length.  The undercoat is dense and insulative.  He sheds abundantly year- round, particularly in early summer.  Regular brushing will keep his coat in good condition.  The color may be black-and-white with an off-white undercoat, red-and-white, or gray-and-white with an off-white undercoat.

About the breed: This is a sociable, affectionate, fast, strong, intelligent, and powerful breed who is always friendly and good-natured but somewhat stubborn. Usually good with children , the Alaskan Malamute does not make a good watchdog, but he does have a high prey drive and will show aggression toward other dogs.  He can be impetuous, dominant, and challenging, and is not the most cooperative breed with regard to obedience training.

Early training is important due to the breed’s size, level of dominance, and aggression toward animals.  The “Come” command is the most difficult to teach a Malamute because of his independent, free-thinking nature, though the females tend to be less dominant and aggressive.  A firm, consistent training technique must be used with this sometimes resistant breed.

He tends to be quite vocal and can be very destructive if not exercised daily.  Though he is friendly, keep in mind that this large breed can knock over and hurt a child during play.  No roughhousing or chase games should be tolerated. The Malamute loves to dig and will create holes all over your yard.  A large kennel with a concrete floor will eliminate this problem.

This breed can be left outside during even the coldest winter.  Although they are almost always good-natured, there are a few cases of aggression toward people with this breed, particularly from the males.  Once this behavior occurs, it is very difficult to modify and usually results in the destruction of the animal.

The Alaskan Malamute lives for only ten to twelve years and can suffer from hip dysplasia, shoulder problems, and bloat.  He loves the cold and will suffer in warmer climates.  He needs exercise, but should not be run long distances due to his weight and susceptibility to hip and shoulder problems.  This breed eats large amounts of food and can develop diarrhea if the diet is changed too rapidly.

Altering can lengthen the  life of an Alaskan Malamute and help prevent aggression and other behavioral problems.

Feeding: Recommended feeding for this breed is 1 ½ – 2 ½ cans (13.3oz) of high-quality meaty product with biscuit added in equal part or 5 cupfuls of a complete, dry dog food.

Ideal home: This big, independent breed needs a  house with a fenced yard or kennel.  He needs a firm, consistent leader who is confident and physically able to deal with a powerful breed.   Training should begin early and should include daily socialization, handling, and grooming.  Spoiling, cautious, and overbearing persons should avoid the Alaskan Malamute, as should the elderly and the disabled.

Filed Under: Dog Information Tagged With: Aggression, Alaskan Malamute, Alaskan Malamute History, Chase, Chase Games, Competitions, Dominance, Females, Free Thinking, Malamutes, Medium Length, Muscular Body, Native Tribe, Obedience Training, Prey Drive, Roughhousing, Samoyed, Sled Dog, Strength Endurance, Undercoat, Watchdog, Weather

Description Of A Labrador Retriever: Part 2

January 20, 2011 by admin Leave a Comment

It is important for the Labrador Retriever to be well balanced. He should  not be as tall and thin as a pointer, and he should not be as short and fat as a potbellied pig. No one feature should be so prominent as to detract from the total picture. If you look at a Labrador and notice only his huge head, the dog is probably unbalanced. If you look at a Labrador and see only his big feet or a long scraggly tail,  you are probably not looking at a good specimen of the breed.

The Labrador Retriever ears should be set off the side of the skull, not too high and not too low. They should be of medium size, hanging so that the bottom tips are about two inches below the eyes. The ears should not be so big or so small that they draw attention to themselves. And they should never be long or folded as they are on many hounds.

The Labrador Retriever eyes are where we see that irresistible, sweet, kind and alert expression. Some are shaped like a rounded diamond.  Although some round eyes can be attractive, they should not resemble the round eyes of a Cocker Spaniel, nor should they be too almond-shaped. A good color would be a warm brown-eye on all three colors (black, yellow or chocolate), maybe a bit darker on a yellow Labrador Retriever. If the eyes are too light, the dog’s expression will be ruined.

There should never be a harsh or mean look about a Labrador. When you look into a Lab’s eyes, you should feel instant friendliness. Usually, the moment your eyes meet, the Lab’s powerful tail starts wagging automatically.

The desirable Labrador Retriever head should sit on a strong neck of medium length. If the neck is too short, the dog looks as if his head is sitting on his shoulders; if the neck is too long, the dog appears elegant, like a setter, which is not correct. There is nothing elegant about this dog. He is agile, strong, and sturdy. As you continue down the neck, past the withers, the top line (the back) should be rather level, never sway-back or sloping to the degree that a Setter’s back does from the neck to the rump.

The Labrador Retriever chest should be deep with well-sprung ribs like a barrel. The shoulders should be long and sloping. The correct look requires long bones that form a ninety-degree angle as you look at the dog from the side, from the withers, to the sternum, to the elbow.

The front legs of a Labrador Retriever are well underneath the dog, allowing a prominent breastbone to show and creating the picture of a powerful chest.

Filed Under: Dog Information Tagged With: Alert Expression, Brown Eye, Chocolate, Cocker Spaniel, Diamond, Ears, Friendliness, Hounds, Labrador Retriever, Medium Length, Medium Size, Pointer, Potbellied Pig, Shoulders, Skull, Spaniel, Specimen, Sweet Kind, Three Colors, Withers, Yellow Labrador Retriever

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