Edie MacKenzie

Edie MacKenzie is a published author, traveler, dog lover, and tortoise enthusiast. Passionate about what she does, her books provide peopel a firm grounding in the dog breed and their unique characteristics with a nice touch of humor.

How to Keep Your Aging Poodle Comfortable

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Once your Poodle advances in years, how can you best care for your aging pet every day? “Give your Poodle whatever she wants to keep happy,” suggests one aging Poodle owner. “She deserves it for being such a loyal and loving companion.”

You can start by giving your Poodle a softer place on which to rest her aching bones and joints. Perhaps in her youth she was content to nap on a hard floor, but in old age a comfy bed is in order. Stiffness from osteoarthritis is made worse by sleeping on cold, damp ground or hard surfaces.

You can purchase a soft bed at a pet-supply store or make one yourself with thick foam rubber (easily found at thrift stores) covered with a machine-washable, snug blanket. Place the bed in a dry, draft-free area of the house. Older dogs are sensitive to the extremes of heat and cold. Additionally, reduce stiffness by drying off your Poodle if she gets wet.

Dry her thoroughly after bathing or an outing in wet weather. Make sure she doesn’t get wet and stay damp.

An arthritic Poodle may find it difficult to bend down to eat and drink from bowls on the floor. Consider buying an eating table (a neck-level table with special cutouts for food and water bowls) for her. This will be more comfortable for the senior Poodle who is hesitant to bend her neck due to the stiffness of arthritis.

While an arthritic Poodle may wish to avoid activity because it’s painful, there’s nothing more beneficial to an older dog than a regular exercise program. Exercise improves muscle tone and strength, keeps joints moving, and keeps weight on target. The veterinarian can prescribe medication to reduce arthritic pain to make exercise possible.

Activity is essential, but you’ll need to protect your arthritic Poodle from injury by modifying exercise and not allowing her to overdo it. Avoid jumping and other activities that wear down the joints more. Lift your olden poodle in and out of the car. Avoid stairs and rough play. Let her choose the pace she wants.

The aging Poodle needs more rest than she did in her younger years. If the Poodle is exercising on a regular basis and wishes to nap more, allow that. Just make sure you have a comfy bed handy.

The older Poodle is a creature of habit. She is not likely to appreciate sudden changes in routine, bed placement, food dishes, and activity. Keep such changes to a minimum, changing only what you must.

If you’re planning a vacation, consider hiring a pet sitter to care for your Poodle at home rather than take her to a boarding kennel. Older dogs don’t tolerate drastic changes in their routine such as being away from home in a boarding kennel no matter how nice the place is. Keeping your old Poodle at home while you’re away in the care of a trusted pet sitter is often your best option.

Training Your Poodle

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All dogs, including the Poodle, need training to learn how to behave themselves. When your Standard Poodle learns to greet people by sitting still, he won’t jump up on them. When he learns what the word “stay” means, he will learn to be still and to control his own actions. Your Toy Poodle can learn to walk nicely on a leash instead of being carried all the time. In addition, once you learn how to teach your dog, you can train him to follow the rules necessary for good behavior.

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Does your Poodle insist on being the center of attention? Does he bark at people outside your yard? If he gets out of the yard, does he refuse to come when you call him? Does he raid the trashcan? Does he jump on your guests? These are not unusual behaviors for a young, untrained dog, but they are unnecessary, potentially dangerous, and annoying behaviors that you can change (or at least control) through training.

With training, your Poodle can learn to control himself so that he doesn’t react to every impulse. He can learn to sit while greeting people rather than covering them with muddy paw     & prints or ripping their clothes. He can learn to restrain some of his vocalizations and to ignore the trashcans.

Ideally, training should begin as soon as you bring home your new Poodle. If you have an eight to ten-week-old puppy, that’s okay. Your new puppy can begin learning that biting isn’t allowed, that he should sit for treats, petting, and meals, and where he should go to relieve himself. By ten weeks of age, you can attach a small leash to his collar and let him drag it around for a few minutes at a time so he gets used to it. Always watch him closely, of course, so that he doesn’t get the leash tangled up in something and choke himself. Young puppies have a very short attention span, but they are capable of learning and are eager students.

Don’t let your Poodle pup do anything now that you don’t want him to do later when he is full grown. For example, if you don’t want your Standard Poodle up on your lap when he’s 45 pounds of rough paws and hard elbows, don’t let him on your lap now. If you don’t want your Toy Poodle growing up to be a problem barker, stop the barking when he’s a puppy. It will be much harder to change the habit later. Keep in mind as you begin your dog’s training that Poodles are an intelligent breed, responsive to training!

If you have adopted a Poodle who is an older puppy or an adult, you can still begin training right away.

Although your new dog will need time to get used to you and his new home, early training will help your Poodle learn what you expect of him, and as a result, will make that adjustment easier.

Step By Step Instructions For Bathing Your Poodle

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How To Bathe Your Poodle

1. Only after completing the brushing should you move on to the bath. This is so because if the Poodle coat is not tangle-free, the accumulated dirt will not shampoo out and any mats will be even harder to remove.

2. Secure a hose to the bathtub faucet so that ample free-flowing water is available at all times.

3. Have all your necessary supplies close at hand, for once you have started the bath you should remain by the Poodle side to reassure him and to make sure he does not jump out of the tub. A dog shampoo (preferably “tearless”), sponge, brush, and towel will be needed.

4. Until you are adept at giving proper baths to your pet, place cotton plugs in your dog’s ears to avoid any water getting into the ear canal.

5. The dog must be thoroughly soaked with warm water before he is soaped. Once you have worked the water down to his skin, soap and cleanse the coat along the spine; move next to the legs and the underside.

6. Be especially careful when cleaning the head and ears to avoid direct contact with the sensitive areas. Unless you have a special “no tear” shampoo, it would be wise to apply several drops of mineral oil into the dog’s eyes to avoid stinging.

7. Since a dog’s coat naturally repels water, you must actively massage the shampoo down through the layers to the skin. Rub vigorously and work the shampoo into a lather. Depending on the condition of the coat, you may have to shampoo the dog twice to get out all accumulated dirt and oil.

8. It is imperative that all traces of soap be removed from the coat after the bath. Several rinses with warm water, again working your fingers down to the skin, will ensure that no soapy residue will remain on the skin to cause irritation.

9. Once you are satisfied that all soap has been washed out, rinse him once more for good measure!

10. Squeeze as much water as possible from the coat before you lift him out of the tub. This will considerably shorten the drying time. Rub him briskly with a towel to blot up as much excess water as possible and to prevent him from getting a chill. If you have an enclosed area such as a drying cage, put him in and direct your hot air blower over him. You can leave him in the cage until he is dry, and then brush him to make sure he is dry down to the skin. However, if you have a show dog you can leave him in the cage only until he is partially dry, and then proceed to “fluff” dry him by brushing the coat while having the stream of air directed at your work area.

This produces the powder puff look for the Poodle needed for competition.

Grooming The Nails On Your Poodle

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At least once a month for an adult Poodle and once a week for pups, you must tackle the grooming chore of nail trimming. Failing to trim your dog’s nails can result in sore, splayed feet. How can you tell if your Poodle’s nails are too long? Well, simply listen. Do you hear a click-click when she walks across the tile or linoleum floor? If you do, that means the nails are touching the floor – and they shouldn’t be. Or, take a look at your Poodle s feet while she’s standing. Do you see the nails touching the floor? The idea is to keep your Poodles nails trimmed back short enough so they don’t touch.

There are two basic types of nail clippers: the scissors and the guillotine. You also can use a nail grinder, but it may take some time to get your dog used to the noise. If you use scissors or guillotine clippers, keep them sharp and clean. Dull clippers won’t make a clean cut, and rusty, dirty ones can infect your dog if you cut too quick and your pet bleeds. The objective when clipping nails is to trim as close to the quick as possible without accidentally nicking it. Dark nails are more difficult to cut than light-colored ones, since it is impossible to see the pink vein.

Remove the dry looking hook at the tip of the nail, cutting off small bits of nail at a time. As you cut the nail shorter, you’ll notice it becomes softer and you’ll see a small grayish-white dot under the nail, which is the end of the quick. When you reach this point, the nail is short enough; you can now move on to the next one. Keep in mind that the more often you trim, the shorter you can get the nail, since the quick actually recedes with frequent trimming. Cut each nail as quickly and cleanly as possible; cutting slowly tends to pinch the nail and cause your dog discomfort.

To trim your Poodle’s nails, hold one paw firmly in your left hand (if you’re right-handed) and place your thumb on top of the foot. Place your fingers underneath the pads so you can spread the toes. With the clippers in your right hand, clip each nail right below the quick with short, decisive strokes. Don’t forget the dewclaws if they were not removed when your Poodle was a pup.

Finish trimming the first paw, then file each nail with a metal file to remove sharp, rough edges that could scratch your legs if your Poodle is naughty and jumps up on you. DO NOT file any nails that have bled. Work your way to the next paw, trim each nail, then file.

If you accidentally cut too close, don’t panic. Apply a styptic powder to staunch the bleeding and continue clipping the other nails. Don’t stop and make a big fuss over your mistake, as it may make your dog even more apprehensive the next time you attempt to clip his nails.

A word of advice: start early. Poodles, like all dogs, must learn to accept new experiences. Begin nail trimming while your dog is a pup and do it every week. Between trimmings, handle the dogs feet to accustom her to being touched. The Poodle doesn’t usually make a fuss about trimming, but it’s still wise to-teach your dog to accept it from a young age. Before attempting to clip your Poodle s nails yourself, you may want to observe your groomer or veterinarian the first time.

Poodle Grooming Tips

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Because of the quickly growing a coat of the Poodle, a trim and bath are usually necessary every six to eight weeks. If you have decided that you are going to be the one to take care of the coat, rather than a professional groomer, certain supplies must be on hand.

For basic brushing, the pin-bristled brush does the best job.

Make sure that the bristles are straight, not curved, and set fairly widely apart on a rubber base. Brushes with curved, widely spaced bristles can damage the Poodle coat. A slicker brush that is long in shape and has fine, closely set wires with a slight bend at the tips is recommended for ridding the coat of mats and tangles.

A coarse-toothed steel comb and a fine-toothed comb complete the list of tools needed to keep the coat unsnarled.

Clipping the coat requires the use of an electric clipper, preferably one with interchangeable blades. A small animal clipper is highly recommended by professional groomers as it is lightweight and easily handled.

The blades vary in size according to the area of the Poodle body that is to be clipped, with the number of the blade designating how much hair it removes. The higher the number, the more hair it clips off.

It must be noted that these blades can get quite hot during clipping and burn the dog’s skin, so it is recommended that you also purchase a spray lubricant designed to cool and lube the blades. Of course, you could also use hand clippers, but they are much more difficult than the electric to operate, and the entire clipping procedure will take quite a bit longer. Several sharp scissors will also be needed to apply the finishing touches to the look of the coat.

When you begin grooming your poodle, his hindquarter region is a good place to start. By beginning here, the dog cannot see what is occurring behind him, and he should not become nervous or annoyed. Remember, it is a very good rule to accustom your dog to the entire grooming procedure prior to attempting any major clipping.

He should be well trained enough so that he will obey your “stay” commands while he is on the grooming table. Make it clear from the start that grooming is to be taken seriously. The procedure should neither be a game nor a wrestling match for either of you.

Begin your grooming routine by first looking for any mats or tangles. Carefully work your fingers through the coat, then repeat the procedure using the fine-toothed comb.

If you should find a mat, use your slicker brush or a matting comb. The coat should be brushed up and then down to loosen the matted hairs. Applying a tangle remover to the coat may also help to ease the problem.

In any case, mats must be removed prior to the bath to avoid further tightening.

Once you have finished brushing the hindquarters, begin brushing out the hind legs with quick, short, up and down strokes. Repeat the procedure with the front legs.

After the legs are completely tangle-free, begin brushing the body, starting at the back end and working up to the neck region.

Brush underneath the body, making sure you give this area a proper amount of attention as it is a prime area for matting.

The head and ears should be done with great care, as these delicate areas provide much of the Poodle beauty if groomed properly.

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Why Does A Poodle Have Those Interesting Haircuts?

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The Poodle coat consists of two types of hair. The outer coat should be thick, wiry and curly. The undercoat must be soft and woolly to provide warmth. Puppies, however, are exceptions. Poodle puppy coats are soft and fine with little or no curl, but often with a slight wave.

As the dog matures into adulthood, the coat develops a thick, curly quality. The best way to judge a puppy’s potential adult coat is to look at the parents. If they carry good coats, their
puppies will likely possess them too.

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Ever since the first hunters trimmed their retrieving dogs to prevent drowning, the Poodle hairstyle has been a favorite topic of conversation among dog people. Initially, Poodles sported either a Continental clip or an English Saddle clip. Now, hundreds of years later, these are still popular as they are required clips for show dogs.

Puppies under one year of age are shown in a simple trim known as a “Puppy clip”. Only the face, throat, feet and base of tail are clipped. The tail displays the characteristic pompom at its end. The body coat is lightly trimmed to give it a neat unbroken line for a pleasant appearance.

The “Continental clip” has full hair around the chest and rib cage, with shaved hindquarters and legs. Large pompons are sculpted over each hip above the area of the kidneys (optional) and around the ankles for protection from the cold.

The “English Saddle clip” permits a short mantle of hair over the hindquarters and full
coat from the waist to the topknot and ears. The ankle and knee joints are also protected with pompons.

All Poodles are given a topknot of hair over the skull that is brushed out and groomed to stand erect in a rounded pompon. Adult dogs must be shown in either the English Saddle or Continental clip; the only exception being competitors in Stud Dog classes, for which a Sporting clip is permitted. The English Saddle and Continental are the clips of choice for the conformation ring around the world, except in the UK, where the Lion clip is preferred.

Pet Poodles and those not being shown in breed conformation classes at dog shows are usually groomed in styles designed for ease of maintenance. Often the body hair is clipped short, with the legs trimmed a bit longer. Some male Poodles sport tiny mustaches around the muzzles. The pet style is usually determined by the owner’s willingness and capability to maintain the coat in a well-groomed fashion. In addition. a Poodle that spend a lot of time outdoors are usually kept shorter because it’s easier to keep the coat clean when the hair isn’t too long.

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