Edie MacKenzie

Edie MacKenzie is a published author, traveler, dog lover, and tortoise enthusiast. Passionate about what she does, her books provide peopel a firm grounding in the dog breed and their unique characteristics with a nice touch of humor.

When To Start Training And Socializing Your Dalmatian Puppy

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Socialization and training your Dalmatian puppy need to start the very day of his arrival in your home.  You should not address him without calling him by his name.  A short, simple name is the easiest to teach because it catches the puppy’s attention quickly, so avoid giving him elaborate names.  Always address the pup by the same name, not a whole series of pet names because the latter will only confuse your puppy.  Say his name clearly, and call him over to you when you see him awake and wandering about.  When he comes, make a big fuss over him for being such a good dog.  He will then quickly associate the sound of his name with coming to you and a pleasant experience.

It is not too soon to start familiarizing him to the feel of a light collar, which can start as early as several hours after his arrival.  Chances are he may hardly notice it or he may struggle, roll over, and try to rub it off his neck with his paws.  You can divert his attention when this happens by offering a tasty treat, a toy, or by petting him.  Before long he will accept the strange feeling around his neck and will no longer be aware of it.

Next is the lead; attach it and then immediately take the puppy outside or try to redirect his attention with things to see and sniff.  He may struggle against the lead at first, biting at it and trying to free himself.  Do not pull him with it at this point; just hold the end loosely and try to follow him if he starts off in any direction.  Normally his attention will soon turn to investigating his surroundings if he is outside or if is taken into an unfamiliar room in your house; curiosity will take over and he will become interested in sniffing around the surroundings.  Just follow your Dalmatian with the lead slackly held until he seems to have completely forgotten about it; and then try to get him to follow you.

Do not be rough or jerk at him; just tug gently on the lead in short quick motions, repeating his name or trying to get your Dalmatian to follow your hand while holding a bite of food or a favorite toy.  If you have an older lead-trained dog, then it should be easier to get your Dalmatian puppy to follow along after him.  In any case, the average Dalmatian puppy learns quite quickly and will soon be walking along nicely on the lead.

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The Right Crate For Your Dalmatian Puppy

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The moment you decide to own a Dalmatian puppy, you need to start planning for his arrival in your home.  Both you and your new family member will find the transition period much easier if your home is properly equip in advance of the arrival.

One of the first thing you need to prepare for the arrival of your new Dalmatian puppy is a crate.  Every Dalmatian should have a crate of his own from the very beginning, one  that he will come to know and love as his special place where he is comfortable and safe.

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The crate will provide an ideal setting; when you want him to be free, you can just leave the crate open.  Otherwise, you can securely latch it and know that the Dalmatian pup is safely out of trouble.  Also, if you travel with him, his crate can fit nicely in the car.  A crate therefore is a very sensible and sound investment in your puppy’s future safety and happiness and for your own peace of mind.

The crates that are most preferred are the wooden ones with removable side panels, which are ideal for cold weather where the panels in place to keep out drafts and in hot weather where the panels are removed to allow better air circulation.  Wire crates are all suitable in the summer, but they give no protection from cold or drafts.  Aluminum crates, due to the manner in which the metal reflects surrounding temperatures, are not recommended.  If it is cold, so is the metal of the crate; if it is hot, the crate becomes very hot.

When you choose the puppy’s crate, make sure that it is roomy enough not to be outgrown. The crate should have sufficient height so the dog can stand up in it as he gets older and sufficient area so that he can stretch out full length when relaxed.  When the puppy is young, you can give him shredded newspaper to use as a bed; the papers can be replaced with a mat or towels when the dog is older.

Carpet remnants are great for the bottom of the crate because they are inexpensive and can be easily replaced in case of accidents. As the dog matures and is past the chewing age, a pillow or blanket in the crate can provide warm and comfort.

If you live in an apartment , a baby’s playpen for your Dalmatian puppy works great.  For an older Dalmatian puppy use a portable exercise pen which you can use later when traveling with your dog or for dog shows.  If you have a yard or an area where he can be outside in safety, it should be fenced in prior to the dog’s arrival. This area does not need to be huge, but it does need to be made safe and secure.

If you live in a suburban area where there are close neighbors, stockade fencing works out best.  If you are out in the country where no problems with neighbors are likely to occur, then regular chain-link fencing is fine.  For added precaution in both cases, use concrete blocks or railroad ties inside against the entire bottom of the fence; this reduces the chance of your Dalmatian digging his way out.

Personality And Behavior Of An Active Dalmatian

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Behavior and personality are two qualities which are hard to standardize within a breed, even the Dalmatian.  Although generalizations are difficult to make, most Dalmatians are alert, extremely energetic and affectionate toward their owners.  They make great working dogs because they have the capacity to be loyal and determined and have the stamina to work all day long.  This is not a breed to be cooped up in a house all day; this is not the breed for the hectic family with no time for the dog; this is not the breed to be tied in the backyard to serve as a watchdog.

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Behavior and personality are incredibly important in dogs and there seem to be quite evident extremes in the Dalmatian. The earliest of the breed were bred for guard work and that did not make them ideal house pets.  They were considered as working dogs.  Today’s Dalmatians seem far removed from their earliest ancestors.  Still, they are high energy dogs and dog owners need to provide a channel for that energy.

The ideal Dalmatian is neither aggressive nor neurotic but rather a loving family member with good self-esteem and acceptance of position in the family “pack.” Because the Dalmatian is a powerful dog and can cause much damage, it is worth spending the time when selecting a pup to pay attention to any evidence of personality problems.  It is also important that all Dalmatians be obedience trained.  Like any breed of dog, they have the potential to be vicious and unruly without appropriate training; consider obedience classes mandatory for your sake and that of your dog.

Although many Dalmatians are happy to sleep the day away in bed or on a sofa, most enjoy having a purpose in their day and that makes them excellent working dogs. They need long daily walks or runs and as well as events that involve family members.  Do not let Dalmatian pups run unrestricted because it can increase their risk of developing orthopedic disorders.  All Dalmatians owners are encouraged to enroll their pets in obedience classes to learn limits of unacceptable behaviors.

As a pet owner, there are several activities that you can share with your Dalmatian. They not only make great walking and jogging partners but they are also excellent community volunteers.  If properly trained, the loyal and loving Dalmatian will be your personal guard dog.  For Dalmatian enthusiasts who want to get into more competitive aspects of the dog world, conformation showing, road dog trials, obedience, utility, agility, hunting, guarding, tracking, herding and search & rescue are all activities that can be considered.

Feeding Your Poodle (Part 1)

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Poodle pups have special feeding requirements. A puppy’s stomach is not large enough to hold sufficient food in one feeding to provide his daily nutritional needs. When a puppy graduates from mother’s milk to solid food at about six weeks of age, he will require three to four meals a day, with the exception of Toys, who may need four to six meals. When he reaches about four to five months old, twice-a-day feedings may be sufficient. He can graduate to once-a-day meals at eight to nine months of age.

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Feeding The Poodle Pup: A pup’s nutritional requirements for growth and development are greater than those for an adult dog. If you opt to feed your Poodle pup a commercially prepared diet, feed one formulated especially for pups to ensure that your Poodle gets the nutrients he needs. A Poodle pup who eats a complete and balanced commercial puppy diet doesn’t need additional supplements. Adding supplements can cause nutritional imbalance. However, if you are supplying your dog with a home-cooked or fresh-diet meal plan, supplements may be necessary. Consult with a veterinary nutritionist.

Dry food can be moistened with warm water to encourage pups to eat. Milk can be used, too, but only in extremely small amounts. Cow’s milk causes digestive upset in some puppies and dogs. A tablespoon of canned food can be added to increase interest, as well. These are general guidelines for feeding your Poodle pup; consult with your veterinarian for more specific advice.

Feeding Adult Poodles: The adult Poodle is a mature dog, usually age one year or older. Healthy adult dogs who are not pregnant, nursing, or hardworking have somewhat low nutritional requirements. Feeding is fairly straightforward if you’re feeding commercially prepared kibble. Buy a complete and balanced diet made for the adult dog and give your dog the recommended amount once or twice a day. Add a tablespoon of canned food for taste if you wish. Adjust the amount according to the Poodle’s activity level and body condition.

Feeding Hardworking Poodles: Highly active Poodles use a lot of energy. The hard-working dog can require two to three time more kilocalories per pound of body weight than what is required for normal activity. To maintain good body condition and keep up his stamina, the hardworking Poodle must eat a high-energy diet.

Many veterinarians recommend commercially prepared “performance” diets for highly active dogs. Higher fat, higher-protein diets supply the working dog with needed calories. Because performance diets are higher in protein than maintenance diets, there s a misconception that the active dog just needs extra protein. However, all nutrients are required in greater amounts. Additionally, research indicates that moderately high-protein diets are unlikely to cause kidney damage – in spite of some breeders’ and owners’ beliefs that it does.

Feeding Your Elderly Poodle: Older Poodles (those who have reached the last 25 percent of their expected life span) are usually less active than adult dogs and pups. Thus, their energy requirements are reduced and they can gain weight easily if fed too much or fed a high-calorie diet. Some veterinarians recommend “senior” diets; foods high in nutrients but reduced in calories to keep a senior Poodle at a healthy weight.

Hip Dysplasia And Golden Retrievers

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The Golden Retrievers Major Health Issue

Hip dysplasia is a poor formation of the hip joints, which is a common growing disease with younger dogs of virtually every breed including Golden Retrievers .  With larger breeds, unsteady hip joints are common, although hip dysplasia can be a serious problem that will limit the physical activity of your Golden.  Although many Golden Retriever owners don’t realize it, hip dysplasia is something that dogs inherit from their parents, and gets worse with age.

The signs and symptoms of hip dysplasia is nearly impossible to detect with Golden puppies, although it will start to show once the pup has reached the age of nine months.  Even though you may take your Golden to the vet to have him looked at, your vet will tell you that you need to wait to see if the symptoms are there, once the Golden Retriever has reached a certain age.

The symptoms and signs of hip dysplasia vary, although the most common include crippling or the inability to walk properly.  This disease can get better once the dog gets older though, due to the joints stabilizing, the inflammation going down, and the muscles in the hips getting stronger and more mature.  Keep in mind however, that Golden’s who have hip dysplasia when they are younger will more than likely develop arthritis when they get older.

Golden Retrievers that suffer from hip dysplasia aren’t fit for breeding, although they can still live a long and healthy life.  There are certain drugs that your vet can prescribe to your dog, which will help him control his weight and help control the disease.  These drugs can also cut down on the pain as well, helping your Golden enjoy himself as much as possible.

Some Golden Retrievers that have hip dysplasia won’t begin to show any signs at all until they get a few years old, once the muscles start to wear down and the damage to the hip muscles start to become more noticeable.  Although your dog may be active and healthy for most of his puppy years, dysplasia can slow everything down and make your dog look as if he is old and is suffering from the physical attributes of arthritis.

To eliminate the pain of hip dysplasia, there are surgery options available.  Golden Retrievers have a high threshold for pain, and won’t normally show any signs of being in pain, even though you know they are.  X-rays won’t show any signs of pain, although the limping or slow walking will tell you that your dog is hurting.  Golden Retriever’s who have this disease won’t know it – which is why you should help as much as possible.

If you do your part and help your dog seek relief – he will feel better than ever before – although like all Golden Retrievers, he won’t let you know he hurt any at all.

Dog Health: What You May Find When Visiting A Clinical Veterinarian

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Every veterinary practice and Veterinarian has a distinct “personality” that influences its clientèle and their pets. From the first call for an appointment, to the contact with receptionists, technicians and doctors, personal impressions are made that influence the way the client anticipates their dog’s treatment.

If the reception staff appears relaxed and friendly, and greets clients warmly, taking a moment to explain the forthcoming treatment, clients tend to relax.

On the other hand, when the staff appears rushed and harried, or cool and officious, clients tend to respond in kind.
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While observing the socio-emotional ambiance of hundreds of veterinary practices, researchers have also noted its effects on clients’ dogs. When the Veterinarian and their staff has a positive attitude, the pets tend to relax.

Conversely, when the staff projects a harried, or worried attitude, clients and dogs appear tense.

Whether this tension erupts into problems on the treatment table or on the next visit depends on the dog’s ability to adapt to the stress involved. In other words, the general mood of a veterinary practice can profoundly affect the behavior of dogs under treatment.

When an owner purchases a pup or adult dog, the Veterinarian is usually the first professional consulted. This affords a prime opportunity to educate clients about the owner’s role in preventing or correcting behavior problems, as well as matters of physical health. Many veterinary practitioners now offer “puppy kindergarten classes,” which bring several owner families and pups together for 6 weekly meetings at the clinic. During these meetings, pups are given the chance to socialize with other dogs, adults and children. A veterinary staff member, knowledgeable in behavioral development, can discuss emerging problems and offer effective remedial advice.

Special brochures are available to educate dog owners on various aspects of behavior and behavior problems. These brochures address virtually the entire spectrum of behavior problems encountered in dogs from puppy-hood to old age. Some behavior consultants offer telephone consultations to clients who have no personal access to qualified behavioral assistance. An increasing number of veterinarians find that taking a few additional minutes themselves to speak with clients about behavior problems in their dog pays off in increased goodwill, client retention and referrals. This service allows the practitioner to evaluate the problems holistically.

Dog owners rarely mismanage their pets with malicious intent. It is usually due to ignorance of the effects of their own feelings and behavior on the dog. Behavior consultants need not attempt psychotherapy of their human clients, trying to improve self-images and bring about personality changes.

Rather, the pet behavior consultant’s role is to understand the client’s situation, properly diagnose the problem, and then educate the client concerning the diagnosis and treatment program. This counseling function may readily be fulfilled by any clinical veterinarian who takes the time to study and practice it.

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