Edie MacKenzie

Edie MacKenzie is a published author, traveler, dog lover, and tortoise enthusiast. Passionate about what she does, her books provide peopel a firm grounding in the dog breed and their unique characteristics with a nice touch of humor.

Behavior Problems: Dogs That Lick Too Much

May 19, 2011 by admin Leave a Comment

The first licking experienced by a puppy comes from its dam even before the pup’s eyes are open. Licking is used to groom the pup and, after feeding, to cause urination and defecation. It is doubtful that a young pup consciously considers licking a dominant behavior. However, the act of licking can acquire various other meanings to puppies as they mature and gain feedback from other animals (including people) they lick. Licking by neonatal pups is usually aimed at the dam’s mouth and, at least in wild canines, elicits a gratifying regurgitation of food by the dam for its offspring.

Licking another animal can broadly be classified as care-seeking behavior. However, in some females and apparently “feminized” males, licking may occur as a genuine mutual grooming gesture, which could be considered dominant behavior in such situations. When one dog tries to lick the genitals of another, the behavior is considered submissive. This is usually practiced by submissive pack members toward their dominant counterparts.

Licking seems to acquire different meanings when the puppy is brought into the human group. The significance of licking then depends on the type of feedback provided by the pup or its owners. The old idea that dogs lick our hands to benefit from the salt on our skin rarely applies to licking problems. Rather, the problem generally involves a submissive dog and a permissive owner. In these cases, early episodes of licking are permitted (some people feel genuinely flattered when their dog licks them) and the dog appears to enjoy the owner’s response.

In many cases, licking is a factor in another type of problem behavior. These usually involve the dog’s use of licking to dominate the owner’s attentions or to demonstrate its dominant feelings relative to the owner.

How Can Licking Be Prevented?

Licking is a problem only when the owner is present. Therefore licking is usually easily stopped merely by telling the dog not to do it or by moving away and avoiding it. After a few days or weeks of this rejection, the problem disappears. However, this procedure does not correct the basis of the problem, that is, attempts to dominate the owner.

In addition to discouraging licking, the dog must be taught to respond to commands, and owner adjustments made if the dog is “coddled” or otherwise doted on. When it seeks petting or tries to dominate the owner, it should be given a simple command, such as Sit, and then petted briefly as a reward for obedience.

It is recommended that you use some intervening stimulus when the dog begins to pester you. Whether this involves introduction of a chewable toy that the pet is urged to fetch, or a sharp sound, the goal is to divert the animal’s mind off licking and onto something else. During the initial stages of correction, there may be seen many types of substitute behavior, such as whining, pacing or self-licking. If ignored, this behavior usually disappears in a few days.

Filed Under: Dog Health Tagged With: Attentions, Behavior Problems, Counterparts, Dogs, dogs that lick too much, Dominant Behavior, Feelings, Females, Feminized Males, Gain Feedback, Genitals, Gesture, Human Group, Offspring, Pack Members, Problem Behavior, Pup, Puppies, Puppy, Regurgitation, Wild Canines

How To Keep Your Dog’s Feeding Area Mess-Free

May 17, 2011 by admin Leave a Comment

Unless you are cooking your dog’s meals instead of serving them from a bag, box, or can, after-meal cleanup should not be complicated. But let’s face it, some dogs, like some people, are just sloppy eaters.

Instead of trying to improve your dog’s mealtime manners, try some of these suggestions.

1. To make cleaning your dog’s food bowls easier, coat them with vegetable cooking spray to keep food from sticking on the bottom.

2. An alternative to using cooking spray on your dog’s bowls is to purchase nonstick bowls for him. Nonstick bowls are available in kitchen stores or housewares departments.

3. To keep food from flying onto the floor around your dog’s food dish, place the dish on a tray instead of a place mat.

4. Plastic salad bar containers with lid and bottom still connected can become food and water dishes or a tray on which to place your dog’s regular bowl to keep food and water from spilling.

5. If you are caring for a litter of puppies that have been weaned, competition for food may become intense. Instead of giving each one a separate dish, try feeding them from a muffin tin to keep cleanup chores to a minimum.

Filed Under: Dog Information Tagged With: Chores, Cleanup, Containers, Cooking Food, Dog Bowls, Dog Dish, Dog Food, Dogs, Face, Food Dish, Housewares, Kitchen Stores, Mealtime Manners, Muffin Tin, Place Mat, Puppies, Salad Bar, Water Dishes

How The Weather Affects Housebreaking Your Puppy

May 15, 2011 by admin Leave a Comment

Be aware of the weather when taking your puppy to the potty area. If you get a puppy in winter, remember that it will be a little harder on you and your puppy. Dress warmly so you don’t lose your patience if the puppy takes longer to relieve herself.

If you bring your puppy in too soon because you are getting cold and uncomfortable, she may urinate once you bring her into the warmth of your house.

In winter, it is also advisable for owners to put a wind-proof, doggie jacket on their puppies. This way they can stay warm and not have an aversion to being outdoors.

In the fall and spring, the earth is moist and the ground rich with odors. Your puppy will be distracted by the rich scents and she may take longer to relieve herself.

Rainy weather is also a challenge for pups. The rain may alarm them at first and distract them from the familiar scent in their potty area. Snow has the same affect. Be patient under these conditions.

Filed Under: Puppy Training Tagged With: Aversion, Earth, Housebreaking, Housebreaking Puppy, Housebreaking Your Puppy, Patience, Puppies, Puppy, Rain, Rainy Weather, Rich Scents, Warmth, Wind Proof

Dog Breeding & Your New Puppies’ Temperament

May 14, 2011 by admin Leave a Comment

Your puppies’ temperaments are affected by their genetic predisposition toward certain character traits and their environment. The greatest factor influencing your puppies’ behavior is initially through their dam, her relationship with you and generalized perception of her environment. Her perception and acceptance of outside stimuli such as, for example, strangers who come to view the litter can set an indelible example for her offspring.

Therefore, no female dog should be bred who has an unsound temperament. If the temperament is the oven product of abuse, and the female exhibits exceptional redeemable qualities given an optimum supportive environment, breeding is a possibility. The attitude of the dam will always be reflected at least to some degree in every puppy.

The environment in which a litter is reared, therefore, is of paramount importance to having well socialized and confident puppies. As a result, it behooves anyone who engages in a breeding program, whether for a single litter or a long-term endeavor encompassing multiple years and litters, to breed only those dogs that most closely meet the breed Standard’s physical criteria, as well as those animals exhibiting the ideal temperament.

Filed Under: Dog Health Tagged With: Animals, Attitude, Character Traits, Dog Breeding, Endeavor, Genetic Predisposition, Ideal, Litters, Offspring, Oven Product, Paramount Importance, Perception, Physical Criteria, Puppies, Puppy, Relationship, Stimuli, Supportive Environment, Temperament, Those Dogs

Considering a Dog Training Career?- Here is What You Need to Know

April 27, 2011 by admin

Copyright (c) 2010 James Mahoney

If you love working with dogs, a dog training career may be just right for you. Dogs all the way from puppies to older dogs, need training, and their owners usually don’t know how to train them. They need a professional to do the job.

If you are considering pursuing this as a career, you could just start by practicing on your own dog. If you are good at training your dog, then you might be good at training other people’s dogs. But if you find that training your dog leaves you frustrated and drained, then a dog training career might not be the best choice for you.

A career can be very rewarding. Most people love dogs and more and more people are becoming dog owners. Also people are coming to realize the importance of training when it comes to their dog’s well being and overall happiness.

There are basically two types of careers since it field really consists of two different areas. These areas are pet and service dog training. These are both in demand, however there are far more opportunities in pet dog training.

For a successful dog training career however it is not enough just to love dogs. You have to be able to get along well with the people who own the dogs too, and when training the dogs, you are also training the owners as well.

So when the owners become distraught will you be able to deal with them in a way that iscalming, but firm and be understanding.

To found out more information about careers in dog training and how to get, check out the Association of Pet Dog Trainers (APDT). They state on their web site that they are committed to becoming better trainers through education. APDT is a good place to find out more about dog training jobs, as well as networking with their members.

You can also find dog trainer training academies that provide those interested in dog training careers the basics of the business. Besides training, you can also find out about the running of your own dog training business before getting started.

There are many ways to get started in a dog training career. You could volunteer your services at a dog training class held by a local animal shelter. This will help to give you a feel for what is involved in pursuing dog training career. If you prove to be a good teacher than you could consider going to the next step in your training.

You could receive training at a school for those interested in a dog training career where you can get good hands on training. You should be able to find many schools and seminars available in your area.

But remember a career in dog training requires more than just knowing how to handle dogs, you must know how to handle their owners too. If you possess these qualities in addition to having good training, you could be well on the way to success in this field.

J. Mahoney is the owner of Dog Trainers Ideas.com. Just feel free to visit http://www.dogtrainersideas.com where you will find a resource providing you with advice on all aspects of dog training, house training and dog health. If you want to find more info on dog training Career Click Here!

Article Source: Considering a dog training Career?- Here is What You Need to Know

Filed Under: Dog Training Tagged With: Apdt, Association Of Pet Dog Trainers, Best Choice, Dog Owners, Dog Trainer, Dogs Training, Education Place, Happiness, James Mahoney, Love, Networking, People, Pet Dog Trainers, Pet Dog Training, Puppies, Service Dog Training, Successful Dog Training, Training Dogs, Training Jobs, Working Dogs

Dog Health – A Look At Whelping

April 18, 2011 by admin Leave a Comment

Whilst the natural process of birth is in no way an emergency, and if normal does not require any assistance or first-aid measures, a number of variations of, or from, the normal may arise. Some of these may amount to actual abnormality and need professional attendance, or perhaps assistance from the owner. The following comments are intended to help the inexperienced to distinguish between normal and abnormal, between the natural physiological process and pathological complications. Even quite experienced breeders often find this aspect of whelping difficult to grasp.

The uncertainty of risking the puppies’ lives and the danger of harm to the bitch, creates a large problem in their minds. Generally speaking, it is better to consult your veterinary surgeon too early rather than to delay too long as the chance of survival of mother and young will then be proportionally greater.

If surgical interference is necessary it is the fit animal which will stand the best chances, not the exhausted bitch. Any surgical action which is required should be left strictly to the veterinary surgeon; on no account should the owner attempt, or permit anyone else to attempt, delivery by the use of forceps, etc.

The first signs of parturition are restlessness, “bed-making”, and often, refusal of food. There is usually a pronounced fall in body temperature (about 98F.) twenty-four hours or so before whelping. Shivering and panting are usual, and these signs are all quite normal. Within several hours of the beginning of these symptoms actual labour will begin. The contractions of the womb or uterus will start and at this stage the bitch will show signs of periodic acute discomfort, heaving, straining and panting.

These spasms will become more frequent and sustained as the whelping process goes on. It is important to note the time when the first real labour pains (i.e., straining) are seen as much depends on the intervals between beginning of symptoms and appearance, or non-appearance, of puppies.

The first thing that is noticed in a normal whelping is the water bag, which may be seen only as a sudden expulsion of fluid, as it ruptures, or is ruptured by the bitch. If this sign has not been seen after 1 hour from time of labour it is wise to make sure that all is going well.

This can be done only by a vaginal examination with a well-scrubbed and soaped finger. Gently insert the finger into the vagina, and the puppy should be felt in the pelvic cavity, i.e., within a few inches of the vulva. Do not push or probe about if the puppy can be felt. Leave the bitch for 15-20 minutes; then, if no puppy has been born, re-examine the bitch. If the puppy has not moved further down towards the vulva, or if at the first examination no puppy or water bag could be felt, call your veterinary surgeon. These time limits are conservative; some bitches are slower than this but are nevertheless quite normal.

Generally speaking, however, the time limits stated should not be greatly exceeded. The first puppy is usually followed within 20 minutes-1 hour by the second, and so on until the whole litter has arrived. The bitch may rest for a few minutes after having, say, 2 or 3 puppies, and of course this time should not be counted when deciding how matters are going. Complications are therefore best assessed by judging the time delays involved, supplemented when necessary by gentle vaginal exploration.

One complication, uterine inertia, is seen occasionally. If this is suspected your veterinary surgeon should be informed straight away.
This takes two main forms:
(a) The bitch will go through all the routine of bed making, etc., and then, after a little abdominal discomfort, show no further signs of labour or uterine contractions. This is known as primary uterine inertia.

(b) The bitch may show signs of straining, often quite good to begin with but becoming weaker and fewer, without the appearance of the puppy. This is called secondary uterine inertia. Both these types of uterine inertia require skilled attention, which may or may not involve surgical assistance. One of the predisposing causes of uterine inertia, or “going to sleep on the job”, is over-fatness, and bitches should be kept in a fit, properly exercised state right up to the actual day of whelping. Certain medical conditions also predispose or cause this lack of uterine tone, but search for the cause and the necessary treatment should be left to the expert.

Attention to puppies

Puppies will not usually require attention from the owner of a normal bitch, who has whelped successfully by herself. However, in short-nosed breeds, e.g., Pekinese, King Charles spaniels and English Bulldogs, it is sometimes necessary to attend to the umbilical cord, if the puppy is born intact, or attached to the foetal sac (or “puppy-bag”) as the membranes in which the puppy lies when in the womb are called. The cord should be tied off about a quarter to half inch from the puppy’s navel with sterile cotton (i.e., boiled cotton) and the membrane or “bag” side of the cord cut with sterilised scissors. The stump should then be dabbed with tincture of iodine.

Lifeless puppies

Occasionally a puppy that has been delayed in birth does not gasp when born. The mouth should be opened with a finger and the spine given a brisk rubbing with a dry towel. A little cold water on the nape of the neck will help to stimulate a reflex inspiration. If mucus is in the mouth wipe this away with a little moistened cotton wool and blow sharply into the opened mouth. A drop of brandy on the tongue will also produce a reflex inhalation and is a useful stimulant for a weakly pup. When the puppy is breathing regularly, but not before, place him on a towel or blanket, near a hot water-bottle. A drop of brandy may be given every 20-30 minutes until he can be suckled by the bitch.

Discover a lot more about keeping your dog healthy at dog health

Article Source: Dog Health – A Look At Whelping

Filed Under: Dog Health Tagged With: Abnormality, Acute Discomfort, Attendance, Bitch, Body Temperature, Contractions, Dog Whelping, First Aid, First Signs, Interference, Intervals, Labour Pains, Puppies, Restlessness, Twenty Four Hours, Uncertainty, Uterus, Variations, Veterinary Surgeon, Womb

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