Puppy Dogs Archives - Edie MacKenzie

Is Dog Leash Training or Dog Collar Training the Best Way to Success in Your Dog Training

September 6, 2011 by admin Leave a Comment

Fortunately, dogs are hard wired by nature to be social, pack oriented animal and to seek out leaders, and to follow the direction of those leaders.

Both dog leash training and reward training have been around for quite awhile now, and over that time they have been shown to be effective in getting the respect of the dog.

The leash and training collars for dog collar training are the most basic piece of training equipment used in dog leash training or in collar training dogs. The correct use of the lead and training collar in dog collar training is vital to any successful dog training.

Dog collar training is used to get dogs trained as fast as possible in a way that is also humane. The way a training collar is used to apply a certain amount of pressure each time that the leash is tightened. This then controls the amount of pressure placed on the training collar, and this pressure can then be adjusted according to just how the dog responds to the dog leash training.

Dog leash training is especially important in puppy training, since most dogs will not have a natural inclination to just follow by your side, but instead have a tendency to wander all over the place.

Dog leash training used when collar training dogs can represent the best way to accomplish many kinds of dog collar training programs. This is especially true in where the dog must achieve a rather high level of reliability in some situation. As an example, where dogs may have an important job to do, such as with rescue dogs, police dogs and guard dogs, dogs in these roles would greatly benefit from dog leash and collar training.

When starting dog leash training you should first purchase a sturdy and well made dog training collar, because you don’t want to risk your dog breaking his collar and running away. You should also make sure that the collar fits him properly.

The length of the dog collar should be approximately two inches longer than the circumference of the dog’s neck. You must use a measuring tape to accurately measure the dog’s neck. To be able to get an accurate measurement, the tape should not be tight around your dog’s neck.

In a collar or leash based dog leash training program, the dog is taught, at least in the beginning, a particular behavior, usually with the leash. After it is apparent the dog can show that he comprehends the particular command, the leash is then used to correct the dog when he might disobey, or when he falls short at any time. The leash is important tool when controlling and communicating with the dog in dog leash training or dog collar training.

There can be many different styles of dog training, even a different training style for every trainer. These styles even vary from dog to dog, and from breed to breed. This can make finding the one that works best for you rather challenging. The right training is important if you want to have a dog that is a talented, loyal and faithful companion for you and your family. The methods of dog training that are the most successful are those that work to strengthen the relationship between dog and handler, and therefore for a training program to be considered successful it must be able to get the respect of the dog.

J. Mahoney is the owner of Dog Trainers Ideas.com. Just feel free to visit www.dogtrainersideas.com where you will find a resource providing you with advice on all aspects of dog training, house training and dog health.

If you want to find more info on Dog Leash Training Click Here!

Proper Discipline for Effective Puppy Training

June 7, 2010 by admin Leave a Comment

The idea of punishing when puppy training makes no more sense than the idea of punishing an infant child.

Have you ever heard of anyone spanking a baby? The only thing that would do is make the baby cry, and make the adult feel badly. A small baby won’t learn from punishment, and puppies are no different.

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Just like everything you do with a small baby is designed to let it feel loved, protected and close to you, the way your treat a new puppy can affect the way that dog views you for entire relationship.

If you choose to punish a puppy, the most you will do is scare it and make it wary of you. If you smack a puppy, even lightly, all it knows is the pain of the strike and the fear it feels at that moment toward you.

It doesn’t learn that it was doing something wrong because it’s too young to understand that concept.

If your puppy is chewing on something for instance, and you punish it with even a light tap, of course it will probably stop what it’s doing.

It’s surprised and possibly feels pain from the smack, and now feels very frightened of you.

It doesn’t link the punishment with what it was doing, though, and has no way of predicting when it might be punished next.

Shouting when puppy training can also do damage to your relationship. If you startle the puppy with a shout, of course it might stop what it’s doing. But again, the puppy doesn’t understand the relationship between its actions and your shouting. Even the angry tone of your voice can cause your puppy to be afraid for a moment.

If you use these punishments on a puppy, the puppy will learn to be afraid of you, or at the very least it will learn that you can be mean.

The puppy might not trust you, because it doesn’t understand why you frighten it. This can keep the puppy from every really warming up to you, and you’ll be unable to have a good relationship as the puppy grows.

Some dogs are very passive, and will respond to you in a very defeated way. Your dog might stay in line all the time, solely out of fear, but it won’t ever trust you.

Other dogs have a more stubborn streak, and because they feel threatened by you may attempt to dislodge you as the one in charge. Dogs are pack animals, and if your dog thinks it should be the leader, you might be in for many behavioral problems big and small.

At the very least, you won’t have as good a relationship with your dog as you could have.

Just as you would do with a very small child, use gentle correction when your puppy does something he shouldn’t do.

Use gentle movements when puppy training and a kind but firm tone of voice, so that your dog understands to stop without becoming frightened.

Understanding Your Dog’s Chewing Problems

April 19, 2010 by admin Leave a Comment

Chewing is usually a developmental phase that puppies pass through to relieve the itch and pain of cutting new teeth. The majority of dogs stop chewing everything in sight once their new teeth are fully erupted, at about 9 months old. The few dogs that do not cease chewing by age 1, either have acquired the habit of chewing from boredom, anxiety, and frustration, or have acquired an unusual gourmet appetite.

Regardless of the reason a dog chews, the behavior of chewing can be very expensive and very dangerous to the dog’s physical well being. Correcting chewing, or any other behavior problem, requires that someone be present to catch the dog in the act. Showing the dog a shoe that was chewed several hours earlier and yelling at him may make you feel better, but there is little chance that he will connect the correction with the idea that chewing shoes is wrong. An unsupervised puppy left to roam the house may develop a taste for dangerous chew toys such as electrical cords, cleaning supplies, and other toxic items. The landscaped yard filled with possibly toxic plants, or rocks and wood that can obstruct the dog’s intestines is a similarly dangerous environment for the unsupervised puppy. Dogs that chew and swallow rocks or other sharp objects often require costly and risky emergency surgery.

To avoid mishaps when you cannot keep a watchful eye on the dog, confine him in an area where only appropriate chew items such as dog toys, rawhides, or knuckle bones are available. You must exercise caution in which chew toys are left in the crate, because dogs have been reported to choke on some toys and rawhides. If you confine your dog to a crate during unsupervised periods, you don’t have to worry about him chewing up prized possessions and furniture, or doing himself harm. You may choose to dog proof the house by removing any prize possessions until the dog has passed through the chewing stage. Products such as Bitter Apple or Tabasco sauce may be sprayed on furniture and possessions to keep the dog from chewing, but check for staining before using them. Ninety-nine percent of the dogs find the taste of these products repulsive, but a few dogs think they are a gourmet delight.

One product that may not be attractive to any dog is ammonia. Be careful not to spray the ammonia when the dog is close by; it could damage his olfactory system and eyes. Read the instructions carefully to determine what is safe to spray on valuable possessions. Your dog should be well supplied with acceptable chew items such as old socks, safe dog toys, rawhides, chew hooves, and knuckle bones. Only knuckle bones are safe; other bones will splinter and get caught in the dog’s throat or intestines. If you are worried that your dog will not discriminate between an old chewable sock and a new sock, you may want to take time to play fetch with the dog and an old sock so the item will become his favorite toy. The old sock will carry the scent of the dog, whereas the new sock has your scent. The dog quickly learns the difference between the socks when you praise him for playing with and chewing the old sock and reprimand him for chewing on socks with your scent.

Puppy Socialization: The Best Way To Socialize Your Puppy With Other Dogs

June 15, 2009 by admin Leave a Comment

Knowing how to behave properly when around other dogs represents a skill vital for any canine to enjoy his venture beyond his own yard. However, this aspect of socialization harbors more serious risks than meeting people. Dogs possess a defined set of rules in greeting each other, and though most adults grant leeway for ill-mannered puppies, not all do.

For this reason, puppy kindergarten classes provides the safest venue for socializing your puppy around other dogs. Kindergarten restricts classes to puppies who have completed vaccinations and helps owners train basic manners. A good class recognizes the value of letting puppies interact.

Also important, but not always part of every puppy class, is the inclusion of structured play sessions. Many puppy classes allow general playtime with all the puppies turned loose at once. This frequently results in smaller or timid puppies getting “beat up” by larger or more dominant pups. Because unpleasant encounters can initiate fear or aggression toward other dogs, find a class where the instructor supervises all puppy interaction.

Look for kindergarten classes at training clubs or private trainers via your local phone directory under “pets” or “dog training”. Your potential instructor should have experience in teaching assorted breeds from the various groups. Ask if they use treats, toys, praise and play to encourage canine cooperation rather than forcing compliance. It is best to observe a class in progress. If both people and puppies appear to be doing well and having fun, consider signing up.

As mentioned, not all dogs look kindly on puppies. If your kindergarten class takes place at a busy training club, keep your pup away from dogs that are not in your group. Ignore the often heard assurance of “Oh, he’s friendly” unless it comes from your instructor. A well-meaning but misguided student from another class may offer this statement before understanding exactly how their dog feels about puppies.

“Monsters” That Your Dog May Have To Deal With

A few years ago, when walking one of my young dogs along a city sidewalk in my brother’s neighborhood, my dog stopped dead, staring nervously ahead. Following her gaze, I realized she had spotted a potential monster: a fire hydrant.

Though I have always worked hard to socialize my dogs well, Cocoa, my Ibizan Hound, was cautious in nature and country living had excluded a prior encounter with this common city fixture.

Knowing Cocoa would largely key off my own reaction, I “kidded” her about being silly and walked another route. After crossing the street, we again headed in the “monster’s” direction, but this time there was a street width between us. As Cocoa started eyeing the hydrant, I pretended to be oblivious, chatting happily to her until well past it. On the way back, she was fine.

Later, I decided to see how she would respond if we again walked on the side where the monster lay in wait. This time I armed myself with some treats. When we neared the spot where she first noticed the hydrant, I started talking cheerfully and gave her a few goodies. This distracted her from worrying and assured her I had no concerns.

Within a minute or two, we were beyond the hydrant. She gave a short backward glance to make sure it wasn’t following us, but paid it little mind on our return trip.

The point of the story is that you should expect odd or unfamiliar objects to alarm your puppy or young dog. And when they do, don’t soothe him with a pat on the back to make him feel better. He’ll take this as a reward for being afraid. Instead, work to face the “danger” head on so in time he becomes used to whatever it is that was scaring him in the first place.

Puppy Socialization: Introduce Your Dog To The World!

June 5, 2009 by admin Leave a Comment

New puppies soak up information and experiences like a sponge – especially those between the ages of 8 to 12 weeks. This is the ideal time to get your pup out into the open and absorbing positive experiences to help with his socialization.

Say Hello To The Neighbors

Your neighbors and friends are all dying to meet your new precocious pooch. By all means, take your puppy for a walk around the neighborhood. He’ll learn to walk on a loose leash and run into new people and situations. The faster you can introduce your puppy to leash walking the better. That way they see the world on their own four paws, so to speak.

Ask people to meet to gently pet and feed a treat to your pup. Limit interactions to cordial children, good-natured dogs, and responsible adults. It teaches the pup that strangers are good people.

Be careful, though. Until your pup’s immune system has been cranked up by his third set of vaccinations (at 16 to 20 weeks) he’ll be vulnerable to diseases, some potentially deadly.

Another great way to expand your puppy’s circle of friends without making a big scene is to invite a few select dog-savvy adults and children over to greet your puppy. Keep everything low-key and nurturing ? no running, squealing, teasing, tussling or poking. Provide treats liberally.

Field Trips Are Great

From the time you get your puppy until he’s about 16 weeks old, socialization is a high priority. Socialization simply means introducing your puppy to new people, places, experiences and other dogs in a positive way. Well-socialized pups grow up to be happy, well-mannered adults.

Keep in mind that your pup’s sociability and outlook depend on a lot of factors. For instance, recent worming or vaccinations, cutting teeth and a recent, long airplane flight can make your pup tired and grumpy. Exposing your pup to too much at these times can cause him to be overwhelmed and taxed rather than enriched by the experience.

Take your puppy to places where dogs are welcome (don’t forget to bring your cleanup supplies). Try to do five to seven new things each week, like experience stairs, bicycles, people with facial hair or glasses, garbage cans, loud noises, new walking surfaces and work trucks, etc. It’s also a great time to introduce your pup to a grooming routine.

And even when your puppy is older than 16 weeks, it’s still a good idea to continue to actively socialize him until he reaches 12 months of age.

When Dogs Meet Other Dogs: What Are They Saying To Each Other?

May 22, 2009 by admin Leave a Comment

How can you tell if your puppy’s encounter with an unfamiliar dog will be a delight or a disaster? That depends on how the other dog acts and how your puppy responds.

Pet dogs, though domesticated, interact with each other according to pack protocol. The pack (the basic canine social unit) is structured around a hierarchy of dominance and subordinance (submission).

Every pack member is dominant to some and subordinate to others, with the exception of the alpha male (who is dominant to all) and the lowest-ranking pack member (who is subordinate to all). Social rank is communicated and enforced through body language ? a complex combination of movements, posture and other physical signals.

When two dogs meet for the first time, the outcome depends on several factors:

1) Age: Most adult dogs tolerate puppies, but this isn’t always the case. If your puppy is approaching maturity and tries to out some dominant behaviors, an older dog may feel obligated to put your youngster in its place. However, puppies of similar ages usually get along well with each other, because puppies usually don’t attempt to dominate each other.

2) Sex: Adult dogs often have friendlier interactions with dogs of the opposite sex than those of the same sex. Because this characteristic is related to maturity, it doesn’t affect interactions involving young puppies

3) Location: Dogs naturally try to protect their own territory (their house and yard), so they often get along better when they meet on neutral ground, such as a park. This tactic doesn’t work, however, if either dog decides that a frequently visited public location is part of its territory. Most puppies, especially young ones, aren’t really territorial, but an adult dog may still regard your youngster as an intruder.

4) Owner Presence: And finally, some dogs are more amiable with one another when their owners aren’t around. This may be due to decreased feelings of jealousy or protectiveness. It may also be that socialization proceeds more smoothly without human interference.

A friendly dog will approach your puppy with a slightly crouched posture, low wagging tail, laid-back ears and a soft, indirect gaze. A not-so-friendly dog will approach standing tall, with its tail and ears erect. It’s gaze will be direct and staring; it may snarl or growl as it approaches.

Your puppy will probably respond to either of these dogs with submissive behavior, which is similar to that of the friendly dog, but more pronounced. Your puppy may even roll over on its back or urinate a bit -signs of complete submission. Even the most aggressive dog won’t attack another dog in this position.

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