Short Time Archives - Edie MacKenzie

Successful Sled Dog Training

April 22, 2011 by admin

Before sled dog training, you must know about the sled dog. Sled dogs are those dogs which are used for pulling the special vehicles which do not have wheels on the ice. Sled dogs have the God gifted ability to run on the ice. Sled dogs usually do not slip on the snow. They feel excitement and try to run as fast as they can on the snow. Sled dogs feel happy when they run on the snow and have ability to transfer the heavy goods through special vehicles from one place to another.

For training, it is better to bring up the dogs in the form of groups and instead of bringing them up a alone. They must be brought up on the open places and must have enough space to run. It is necessary to make the training successful so that you can hold running competitions for your dogs daily. Pamper the one who wins the race and give it more attention on that day. It will assist other sled dogs to run more and all of them will try to increase their running speed and so, your sled training continues successfully as one of the major targets is that you should do efforts for increasing their speed.

Give proper food to the sled dog during training. You should give it such a food which may make it healthy and may not feel tired too soon after pulling the vehicle for short time. Sled dog’s food must have all necessary nutrients in it. It is better to buy the packed food from the market during training as it contains all necessary elements in it which are necessary for the proper growth of the sled dog. Nutrition plays a big role in how successful your dog will be. Properly balanced food delivered at the correct intervals can have a dramatic affect on your dog’s performance not only in its ability to work hard and fast for long periods of time but also with health. A healthy dog will live longer and not suffer from illnesses.

If you feel that your younger sled dog does not run fast even in the groups, you should do younger dog training in between the already trained dogs. When it will see that rest of sled dogs run faster than it, it will surely try to run as fast as it would be possible for it. You should take care of the fact that rest of sled dogs may not try to beat younger sled dog. If rest of dogs tries to be frank with the younger dog, it will learn more from them during training.

Another method for the successful training is that you should be frank with your dog. Try to spend more time daily with it and try to be its friend. When you become its friend, it will obey you more and will follow your instructions happily. In this way, you can teach it more and more in short time during successful training. Give it full attention in every single matter during sled dog training.

Andy Ayres is a dog training specialist and helps dog owners solve problems with their pets. If you want to stop your dog’s excessive barking then learn how a bark collar can help or look here for the most popular bark collars.

Article Source: Successful Sled dog training

Muscle Atrophy In Senior Dogs

July 29, 2010 by admin Leave a Comment

The muscles of most aged mammals lose much of their strength and actually decrease in size with each advancing year, including senior dogs. This is a normal part of the aging process and is to be expected. However, there are two as yet poorly understood muscle disorders which at first may look like normal aging weakness.

In one the dog develops weakness in the leg muscles during periods of exercise or other physical stress, may fall down briefly, seem to recover, get up for a short time only to fall down again. This is often seen in polymyositis, a disease which causes inflammation of any or all muscles in the body of senior dogs.

Polymyositis occurs mostly in late middle age and early old age, the most common of its several possible causes appearing to be a defect in the dog’s immune mechanism. Treatment with corticosteroids is quite successful despite the often alarming appearance of the dog. Occasionally the muscles of the esophagus are affected, making swallowing difficult, but even these respond.

Muscular dystrophy, the second disorder, occurs mainly in older dogs, bears some similarity to muscular dystrophy in people, and has a cause as yet unknown. Affected senior dogs develop a stiff gait as the muscles become progressively weaker and smaller in size. There is nothing we know of which will stop the deterioration or cure the disease. Treatment is palliative, trying to keep the patient as comfortable as possible, and is based on your senior dogs individual symptoms.

Muscle Atrophy In The Older Dog

June 10, 2010 by admin Leave a Comment

The muscles of mos tolder dogs lose much of their strength and actually decrease in size with each advancing year.

This is a normal part of the aging process and is to be expected. However, there are two as yet poorly understood muscle disorders which at first may look like normal aging weakness.

In one the older dog develops weakness in the leg muscles during periods of exercise or other physical stress, may fall down briefly, seem to recover, get up for a short time only to fall down again.

This is often seen in polymyositis, a disease which causes inflammation of any or all muscles in the body.

Polymyositis occurs mostly in late middle age and early old age, the most common of its several possible causes appearing to be a defect in the dog’s immune mechanism.

Treatment with corticosteroids is quite successful despite the often alarming appearance of the older dog.

Occasionally the muscles of the esophagus are affected, making swallowing difficult, but even these respond.

Muscular dystrophy, the second disorder, occurs mainly in older dogs, bears some similarity to muscular dystrophy in people, and has a cause as yet unknown. Affected dogs develop a stiff gait as the muscles become progressively weaker and smaller in size.

There is nothing we know of which will stop the deterioration or cure the disease. Treatment is palliative, trying to keep the patient as comfortable as possible, and is based on your older dog individual symptoms.

Settle Down Little Pup!

April 21, 2010 by admin Leave a Comment

A dog is not like a television or a video game – you can’t just pull the plug or temporarily remove the batteries from a rambunctious puppy. Instead, you must teach him to settle down and shush. Right from the outset, make frequent quiet moments part of the puppy’s daily routine. Following a proper confinement schedule will help your puppy train himself to settle down. Additionally, encourage your puppy to settle down beside you for longer and longer periods. For example, when you’re watching television have your pup lie down on-leash or in his crate, but release him for short play-training breaks during the commercials.

When playing with your pup, have him settle down for frequent short interludes every fifteen seconds. Initially have the pup lie still for a few seconds before letting him play again. After fifteen seconds, interrupt the play session once more with a three-second settle-down. Then try for four seconds, then five, eight, ten, and so on. Although it’s difficult at first, being sent back and forth between “Settle Down” and “Let’s Play”, the puppy soon learns to settle down quickly and happily. Your puppy will learn that being asked to settle down is not the end of the world, nor is it necessarily the end of the play session, but instead that Settle Down signals a short time out and reward break before he is allowed to resume playing.

If you teach your puppy to be calm and controlled when told, you will have years of fun and excitement ahead. Once your puppy has learned to settle down and shush on cue, there is so much more your dog can enjoy with you. Your well-trained dog is likely to be invited for many walks, trips in the car, picnics, visits to the pub, or to Grandma’s, and even on incredible journeys to stay in ritzy dog-friendly hotels. On the other hand, if you let your dog play indiscriminately as a puppy, he will no doubt “want to play indiscriminately as an adult. Your dog will be hyperactive and uncontrollable because you have unintentionally taught him to act that way. If your pup has not been taught to settle down by the time he reaches adolescence, he will be unfit to be taken places. Your pup will begin a lifetime of confinement and isolation at home while the rest of the family go out to have a good time. That folks, is not fair!

Until you have trained your puppy to enjoy spending much of his day at home alone, you might recruit a puppy sitter. Just a few houses down the street, there may live an elderly person, for example, who would just love to live with a dog. He or she might be willing to come over during the daytime and sit and enjoy your TV or the contents of your fridge, maintain your puppy’s confinement schedule, regularly reward him for using his doggy toilet periodically play with the pup, and teach him household rules.

How To Teach Your New Puppy To Play-Bite Softly

July 6, 2009 by admin Leave a Comment

One of the first dog training protocol you will want to initiate when you get a new puppy is to teach him to inhibit the force of his play-bites. It is not necessary to reprimand the pup, and certainly physical punishments are not called for. But it is essential to let your puppy know that bites can hurt. A simple “Ouch!” is usually sufficient. When the puppy backs off, take a short time-out to “lick your wounds,” instruct your pup to come, sit, and lie down to apologize and make up. Then resume playing.

If your puppy does not respond to your yelp by easing up or backing off, an effective technique is to call the puppy a “Bully!” and then leave the room and shut the door. Allow the pup a minute or two time-out to reflect on the association between his painful bite and the immediate departure of his favorite human chew-toy. Then return to make up. It is important to show that you still love your puppy, only that his painful bites are objectionable. Have your pup come and sit and then resume playing once more.

It is much better for you to walk away from the pup than to physically restrain him or remove him to his confinement area at a time when he is biting too hard. So make a habit of playing with your puppy in his long-term confinement area. This technique is remarkably effective with lead-headed dogs, since it is precisely the way puppies learn to inhibit the force of their bites when playing with each other. If one puppy bites another too hard, the dog who gets bitten yelps and playing is postponed while he licks his wounds. The biter soon learns that hard bites interrupt an otherwise enjoyable play session. He learns to bite more softly once play resumes.

The next step is to eliminate bite pressure entirely, even though the “bites” no longer hurt. While your puppy is chewing his human chew-toy, wait for a bite that is harder than the rest and respond as if it really hurt, even though it didn’t: “Ouch – Gennntly! That really hurt me, you bully!” Your puppy begins to think, “Good heavens! These humans are soooooo sensitive. I’ll have to be really careful when mouthing their delicate skin.” And that’s precisely what you want your pup to think: that he needs to be extremely careful and gentle when playing with people.

Your pup should learn not to hurt people well before he is three months old. Ideally, by the time he is four and a half months old (before he develops strong jaws and adult canine teeth) he should no longer be exerting any pressure when mouthing.

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