Edie MacKenzie

Edie MacKenzie is a published author, traveler, dog lover, and tortoise enthusiast. Passionate about what she does, her books provide peopel a firm grounding in the dog breed and their unique characteristics with a nice touch of humor.

The Alaskan Malamute

February 3, 2011 by admin 2 Comments

History and origin: The Alaskan Malamute is named after a native tribe called the “Mahlemuts.”  He is closely related to other Spitz-types such as the Samoyed and has been used as a sled dog.  Bred for strength, endurance, and independence, he has the ability to tolerate extremely low temperatures.  Today the Alaskan Malamute is used in sled-pulling competitions, some being able to pull a sled weighing close to a ton.

Description: The Alaskan Malamute stands 23 to 26 inches at the shoulder and usually weighs 75 to 125 pounds, while some are even larger.  He is thick-boned and has a large, muscular body.  The weather-resistant coat is thick, heavy, and of medium length.  The undercoat is dense and insulative.  He sheds abundantly year- round, particularly in early summer.  Regular brushing will keep his coat in good condition.  The color may be black-and-white with an off-white undercoat, red-and-white, or gray-and-white with an off-white undercoat.

About the breed: This is a sociable, affectionate, fast, strong, intelligent, and powerful breed who is always friendly and good-natured but somewhat stubborn. Usually good with children , the Alaskan Malamute does not make a good watchdog, but he does have a high prey drive and will show aggression toward other dogs.  He can be impetuous, dominant, and challenging, and is not the most cooperative breed with regard to obedience training.

Early training is important due to the breed’s size, level of dominance, and aggression toward animals.  The “Come” command is the most difficult to teach a Malamute because of his independent, free-thinking nature, though the females tend to be less dominant and aggressive.  A firm, consistent training technique must be used with this sometimes resistant breed.

He tends to be quite vocal and can be very destructive if not exercised daily.  Though he is friendly, keep in mind that this large breed can knock over and hurt a child during play.  No roughhousing or chase games should be tolerated. The Malamute loves to dig and will create holes all over your yard.  A large kennel with a concrete floor will eliminate this problem.

This breed can be left outside during even the coldest winter.  Although they are almost always good-natured, there are a few cases of aggression toward people with this breed, particularly from the males.  Once this behavior occurs, it is very difficult to modify and usually results in the destruction of the animal.

The Alaskan Malamute lives for only ten to twelve years and can suffer from hip dysplasia, shoulder problems, and bloat.  He loves the cold and will suffer in warmer climates.  He needs exercise, but should not be run long distances due to his weight and susceptibility to hip and shoulder problems.  This breed eats large amounts of food and can develop diarrhea if the diet is changed too rapidly.

Altering can lengthen the  life of an Alaskan Malamute and help prevent aggression and other behavioral problems.

Feeding: Recommended feeding for this breed is 1 ½ – 2 ½ cans (13.3oz) of high-quality meaty product with biscuit added in equal part or 5 cupfuls of a complete, dry dog food.

Ideal home: This big, independent breed needs a  house with a fenced yard or kennel.  He needs a firm, consistent leader who is confident and physically able to deal with a powerful breed.   Training should begin early and should include daily socialization, handling, and grooming.  Spoiling, cautious, and overbearing persons should avoid the Alaskan Malamute, as should the elderly and the disabled.

Filed Under: Dog Information Tagged With: Aggression, Alaskan Malamute, Alaskan Malamute History, Chase, Chase Games, Competitions, Dominance, Females, Free Thinking, Malamutes, Medium Length, Muscular Body, Native Tribe, Obedience Training, Prey Drive, Roughhousing, Samoyed, Sled Dog, Strength Endurance, Undercoat, Watchdog, Weather

Bedding For Your Golden Retriever

October 3, 2010 by admin Leave a Comment

Your Golden Retriever And Their Bed

Bedding for your Golden Retriever is very important, as this is where he will be spending quite a bit of time – especially at night.  The ideal bedding for your Golden should be a natural fiber, such as wool, as wool absorbs most moisture and will keep your companion warm.  When you get your blanket, you can try thrift stores, as they aren’t very expensive.  You don’t want to buy an expensive blanket, for the fact that Golden Retrievers love to chew.  They can chew or tear the blanket in no time at all, which would make an expensive blanket a waste of money.

When bringing your Golden puppy home, he may be a little upset having to leave his mom and the others of his litter.  The scents and memories that he come to know and love are now being replaced with totally new ones.  If you provide a towel for your Golden to sleep with, it may help to ease him a bit.  Towels are a great way to remind Golden puppies of their mom and their litter, which will help them to sleep and relax.

If you are planning to have your Golden Retriever sleep with you, you should be ready to get up in the middle of the night and take him outside to use the bathroom.  You should keep his food and water near his bedding at all times, so if he gets hungry or thirsty he can get what he needs.  Then, you should planning on taking him out around an hour or so after he has eaten.

If you plan to leave your Golden Retriever outdoors, you’ll obviously need to use a different style of bedding.  Doghouses are essential for Golden’s who stay outdoors, as it helps to keep them warm and free of weather.  Inside of the doghouse on the other hand, most people tend to use straw so the Golden can make a bed out of it.  You can also use a blanket or quilt as well, so that your Golden can wrap himself up in it should he get cold.

You can also use wooden shavings as well, as most Golden’s tend to like them.  Newspapers work good as well, as they give your Golden something to lay on besides a wooden floor.  Although doghouses work great for outdoor dogs, you should take your dog for walks on a daily basis and let him join you in activities that he finds enjoyable.  This way, you can build a unique and lasting friendship with your pet.

Golden Retrievers can quickly become the best friend you have ever had – as long as you take care of them.

Making sure that you have the proper bedding for your Golden Retriever is a great place to start.
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The Best Basic Training
For Your Golden Retriever

If you’d love to discover EXACTLY how to get your dog to stop urinating on
your carpet and actually ring a bell when he needs to potty. . .

Train Golden puppies to NEVER chew on furniture or expensive rugs – even when
you aren’t there to supervise. . .

Learn simple techniques for getting any Golden Retriever to stop barking at
strangers or from begging you to let him back inside – Plus a TON more
step-by-step dog obedience strategies THOUSANDS of regular people are
already using.

Check out Chet Womach & Bauer the Golden Retriever’s-
Hands Off Dog Training

Filed Under: Dog Information Tagged With: Bedding, Companion, Different Style, Doghouse, Doghouses, Golden Puppies, Golden Puppy, Golden Retriever, Golden Retrievers, Memories, Mom, Natural Fiber, Newspapers, Scents, Shavings, Sleep, Thrift Stores, Towels, Waste Of Money, Weather

Cleaning Your Dog’s Ears The Right Way

June 23, 2010 by admin Leave a Comment

Different dogs require different cleaning schedules, when cleaning your dog’s ears,  from every couple of weeks to daily.

Your dog’s activity and the weather also influence the frequency of cleaning.

If your dog is an big swimmer, I suggest daily cleaning before bed. In most cases, twice a month is sufficient.

To clean the outer flap, ask your veterinarian to recommend a commercial ear solution that will prevent infection.

Soak a cotton swab with the solution and wipe the outer ear flap.

Never, never, never use a Q-tip or poke your finger into your dog’s ear. You can do irreparable damage to your dog’s inner ear!

If your dog’s ear gets infected, follow the same procedure that you would use for medicating the eye.

If your dog has drop ears, gently lift the flap and place the medicine where your veterinarian has instructed, so you’re accurately cleaning your dog’s ears.

Filed Under: Dog Health Tagged With: Cotton Swab, Different Dogs, Dog Ears, Drop Ears, Ear Flap, Inner Ear, Irreparable Damage, Medicine, Outer Ear, Outer Flap, Q Tip, Swimmer, Veterinarian, Weather

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