Welcome to the DogSmith and an overview of our training philosophies and methodologies. If you are embarking on a dog training career or if you just want to further educate yourself and your dog then you are about to commence a fascinating journey into the world of interspecies communication. What exactly does that mean? Well, to train dogs we first need to understand how to communicate with them. As we all know, we speak human and they speak dog. We are primates and they are canines. Of course the other side of the communication coin is that we need to understand how they communicate with us using their bodies and vocal tones. In addition, we need to understand what they are physically capable of doing and of course we need to understand what motivates them. To motivate a dog to do something it is physically capable of doing we need to accept that dogs are a predator and an opportunist and every behavior they display is designed to support their survival. There are millions of dogs in the world. Biologists consider the canine species, because of their numbers, to be hugely successful. There are more dogs than wolves and there are more dogs than almost any other animal so domestication has been a critical component of their success. Yet domestication means dogs rely on us for much of their needs. We humans are in a position of control and power in relation to our dogs and we are necessary for their ongoing wellbeing and survival.
Some methods are inhumane, cruel and abusive while others are just plain ineffective. At The DogSmith we work toward a world where people and their pets live together to the mutual benefit of each and where, by our efforts, we can significantly reduce the number of unwanted pets and provide abused, neglected, and abandoned pets an opportunity to find their “forever home”. Our mission exists to enhance the lives of pets and their owners by improving their relationship and the quality of the life they share through:
1) Providing professional support and training to pet dog owners,
2) Supporting and assisting animal shelters and rescue organizations to minimize the number of unwanted animals, and
3) Offering affordable and professional care to family pets so that pet ownership is never a burden.
Our vision and mission is guided by some very stringent values. First, we seek to do no harm. Secondly, we emphasize a ‘holistic’ approach to pet care by attending to the physical, emotional, and environmental well being of all pets and, thirdly, each DogSmith will support, through its deeds, efforts and sponsorship, animal shelters and rescue organizations to promote and implement the “no kill” animal philosophy.
How did the DogSmith training methodology and training philosophy evolve? Having spent considerable time researching and studying psychology while working with pet dogs and their owners, we recognized that dogs learn in two ways. The first way dogs learn is from their environment (acquisition learning). This type of learning is going on all the time. In the ‘pet dog world’ examples of this include learning that takes place in and around the home on a daily basis whether under supervision or not, at the dog park, at their day care or when they are out and about with their owners. Dogs do what works for them and what brings them rewards in their daily life. It is not hard to imagine how dogs pick up and develop unwanted behaviors when owners unknowingly and repeatedly reinforce the wrong behaviors exhibited by their dog. The other way dogs learn is in a formalized learning environment such as a dog training class or during periods when you specifically work with your dog to train them on a particular skill or task. This learning is more structured and formal. This is learning derived from education rather than from the accumulation of experience. With formalized learning the pet dogs are involved and active in the learning process.
Niki Tudge is the President of The DogSmith, America’s Dog Training, Dog Walking & Pet Care Franchise. Niki holds numerous certifications and diplomas for dog training, dog behavior counseling, business management and people training. CPDT –KA, E-Nadoi, CBC, AABP- PDT, DIP. ABT, Pet Care Services CPCT, CAPCT, AKC “CGC” Evaluator, TS1, TS2 & TS3
Niki is a professional member of The Association of Pet Dog Trainers, The National Association of Dog Obedience Trainers and the Association of Animal Behavior Professionals.
You can reach Niki via email at NikiTudge@DogSmith.com
To learn more about joining the DogSmith visit http://www.DogSmithFranchise.com
Benifits of Raw Food For Dogs
If you have ever watched a nature show about predators, you probably noticed (if they showed this part) that after the kill, the alpha male took first eating rights. This is true with the big cats, wolves, coyotes, and wild dogs. Did you notice what the alpha male went after first? Not the lean meat of the muscles, but the internal organs, heart, liver, intestines, etc. That is the food that provides the most nutrients, and the alpha goes after those because he has to be the fittest in the pack. You may also have noticed that the pack does not build a fire and cook their catch. Of course they cannot start fires, but even if they could they wouldn’t because cooking changes the composition of the proteins and does not provide the same nutrients as raw fare does. Shouldn’t you take that into consideration when planning your dog’s foods? These organ meats are good for them, but you do not want to make entire meals of just organ meats. You should feed your dog a percentage, approximately 10%, of his daily diet with some organ meat, liver, kidney, heart, or unbleached intestines if you can find it. The following is a list of items that you can include in your dogs menu: If it runs in the woods you could probably feed it to your dog. Chicken will probably be the staple because it is more abundant and cost effective but experiment to see what your dog likes. • Chicken – whole or backs, necks, wings etc. • Turkey – whole or necks, wings etc. • Cornish game hens • Beef – almost any. It is not recommended to give them femur bones or the like as they may be too hard and could possibly chip their teeth. • Oxtail • Rabbit • Pork – ribs, neck, feet etc • Buffalo • Venison – just make sure the buck shots are all out • Fish – fresh is best, talapiah etc. • Organ Meats – kidney, liver etc. If they have been eating kibble, gradually introduce raw foods. Any dramatic change in diet may not do well with your pup. Add a little raw food to start and each day increase the portion so that in about 2 weeks they are entirely on raw foods.
The recommendation for feeding is 1.5-3% of body weight daily. Larger dogs seem to need less, but once they get used to the food they will only eat what they need. My 2 Huskies get a half pound of raw food mixed with some veggies, and scraps from our dinner. They also receive a treat of chicken necks or backs, or (put in the link to Mercola’s Bones). The very best fresh meats for you and your pup will be Grass-Fed Beef, pork, or lamb, Pastured Chicken, and some wild caught fish. In case you were not aware, cows flourish best on grasses, not grains, and chickens normally eat grass and bugs that feed on grass. A cow or steer has a double stomach to properly digest grasses, but grains do not require the second stomach, and the steers get fat quickly. Grass fed animals do not need antibiotics or steroids to help get them to market. The very essence of food is that which grows in the ground and is green. This is an oversimplification, but this type of meat is at the top of the chain nutritionally both for humans and our furry friends. Are there real, noticeable benefits for our dogs? You bet there are, whether you get grass fed meats or commercial meats, the benefits are outstanding and you will notice the difference almost immediately. First off, you will be giving you pet human quality food, not something that has been processed, and contains ingredients that we cannot even pronounce, from sources; well, who knows? One of the first things you will notice is they drink less water. Because the food has higher moisture content your dogs will probably drink less water. Not that it is a major concern but be aware. The moisture content is much greater in live whole foods then the processed variety, and thus they will not feel the need to drink as much water.
We have noticed that difference between 2 of our dogs who have been raised on raw food since we adopted them and their siblings who dine on commercial wet and dry food. The poop also turns white if left overnight and will eventually turn to powder, the white stool is because of the excess calcium from natural sources. The stool helps determine if you dog is digesting the food well. Less poop that is firm usually means that you pup is digesting well and absorbing all the natural vitamins and minerals. If it is softer you may need to either lessen the carbs if any are given and/or add more raw meaty bones. Another great benefit is bones help clean their teeth. Any uncooked bones can be given for their enjoyment. Do give any cooked bones as the cooking process changes the composition of the bones, and they may splinter and harm your pet. Cleaner teeth the natural way also keeps their mouth healthy and well cleaned. One of the first major things noticed from the raw feeding was that there was a signifigant decrease in dogs gas. One of us has not had this problem, because our dogs have always been on a raw diet and they produce very little gas unless they get too many carbs. The other had that problem, but got used to it, and actually it was his mother’s observation that the dogs were not stinking up the house. Now, they do occasionally let one fly but not even close to what it was before. So the house smells nicer.
More energy The best benefit for our dogs, is their overall health. The main reason people try the raw food diet is because there is some exisiting problem with their pet and it usually stems from they way they eat. We as caring owners and friends want our dogs to live full, happy and healthy lives and we are now seeing that the raw food diet, in most cases, seems to do that for our dogs. Sugars, preservitives, additives etc that are commonly found in kibble and processed foods are just not what nature intended for them to eat, and this may be a major source for canine disease and illness. A raw diet also does not require much supplementation. If you use Grass fed meats about the only supplement will be a Pro-Biotics a few times a week to keep their stomach flora in tip top shape. As long as you include some organ meats and a little veggies, your dog will be healthy and happy. If you use grocery store meats, you might want to consider adding a fish oil supplement too help balance the omega 6 and Omega 3. This little supplement will really give their immune system a real boost.
3 Ways To Keep Dogs From Throwing Up After They Eat
The passion that dogs put into eating can be a little off-putting to the people who feed them – and who have to watch their terrible manners. There’s the drooling and whining. The unseemly snorting as they bury their faces in their food. And, worst of all, the regurgitation that may occur afterward. This, too, is part of nature’s plan.
When wolves stuffed themselves with 40 pounds of meat, their bodies couldn’t actually process that much at once. So they would waddle away from the table, throw up a little bit, then eat it to get the nutrients.
Dogs are a lot smaller than wolves, and it doesn’t take 40 pounds of meat to turn their stomachs. That’s why the kibble you pour in the bowl occasionally gets deposited in the corner a few minutes later. This has nothing to do with physical health or social graces. Their brains and stomachs are telling them that dogs who waste not, want not, and so they follow orders.
Given a chance to raid the food bag, most dogs will instantly revert to their old habits. Even when they don’t eat a lot, they do eat fast, and eating fast means that what goes in is going to try to come out.
Here are a few ways to protect the floors and keep their stomachs calm.
1. Give them more time: Dogs learn from experience. If you always pick up the food bowl the minute they’re done, they’ll figure that they’d better eat faster just in case you pick it up early. Leaving the bowl on the floor for 10 to 15 minutes after it’s empty will help them understand that they don’t have to rush.
2. Wet the food: Most dogs like a little gravy with their meals, and moistening dry food with warm water makes it more appealing. More important, it makes it easier to digest. Dogs are less likely to toss up their food when it’s not in hard chunks.
3. Give them less food, more often: Even though dogs are designed to handle very large meals, it’s better for their digestion to eat smaller amounts, more often. Veterinarians often recommend feeding dogs at least twice a day. Some say it’s better to feed them three, four, or even five times a day. The total amount of food will be the same, but the leisurely pace will help ensure that it stays where it’s supposed to.
The Borzoi
Borzoi History and origin:
Once known as Russian Wolfhounds, this Russian sight hound was developed by crossing the extinct Lapp sled dog with the Collie. The Borzoi was used as coursing hounds to chase rabbits, foxes, and wolves in packs. His speed, agility, and strength allowed him to range far ahead of the mounted hunter, acquire the prey by sight, run it down, and hold it at bay until the hunter arrived. The first Borzoi was brought to the U.S. from England in 1889.
Description:
The Borzoi stands 26 to 28 inches at the shoulder and weighs 65 to 100 pounds. He has a lean, leggy, athletic body and a long, silky, shedding coat that requires medium maintenance. The coat is usually white with black, tan, or lemon markings. It was developed to protect the breed from the cruel Russian winter.
About the Borzoi:
This breed was once a favorite among the Russian aristocrats and admired by the Russian czar’s court. He has the beauty, elegance, carriage, and personality to match his regal heritage. The Borzoi is fast, agile, aloof, and very clean. He is faithful to his owners but cautious with strangers. He is normally intolerant of unpredictable young children and may bite without warning. The Borzoi needs early training and socialization. The training should not be overbearing because this breed processes information slowly and will shut down if pushed. Patience and consistency are important. The “Sit” command is difficult to teach because of the Borzoi’s bony, lanky structure and lack of body padding. The “Come” command is crucial and must be perfected because his great speed enables him to disappear from sight in seconds. The Borzoi has a high prey drive and will seize and kill small animals before his owner can react. He can also be very dog-aggressive. Similar to all sight hounds, the Borzoi must often be allowed time to be by himself. Do not expect him to be as affectionate as a Golden Retriever. Owners who are used to the mind-set of cats will appreciate this breed, though it would be a mistake to own a cat along with a Borzoi. He needs a bed or a thick blanket to lie on because he does not have much muscle or fat on his body and can get pressure sores if his sleeping area is not cushioned properly.
Feeding:
Recommended feeding for this breed is 1 ½ – 2 ½ cans (13.3oz) of branded meaty with biscuit added in same amount or 5 cupfuls of complete dry food.
Ideal home:
The Borzoi is not suitable to live in an apartment, although he can adapt to one as long as he is getting plenty of space and exercise. A quiet environment free of unpredictable events and young children is preferred. Small animals may pose a problem due to this breed’s high prey drive. He needs to run, and activity that is possible only if you have properly trained him to come when called and if you have socialized him among other dogs and people. Borzoi owners should be calm, easygoing leaders who do not necessarily want a dog that is too affectionate. Nervous, hyperactive, and pampering types should avoid this breed. The elderly and disabled may have trouble training and exercising this breed. A Borzoi should not be left alone in a yard because can easily jump a six-foot fence.