Muzzle Archives - Edie MacKenzie

The Elegant English Golden Retriever

July 21, 2011 by admin Leave a Comment

There are only two pure breed golden retrievers recognized by most of the kennel clubs and associations; the English golden retriever and the American golden retriever.

Though there may be other references like the European golden retriever, the English golden retriever is really the pure breed in most cases. In fact the American golden retriever has minimal subtle differences from the English type which I like to call the ‘original’ golden retriever.

The golden retriever as a breed was first developed not in England, but Scotland around mid 1800s. You may perhaps be wondering why it was not named after its country of origin, so do I. Lord Tweedmouth is credited for developing this breed primarily for hunting, reportedly from a cross of the water spaniel and the bloodhound.

It was used for retrieving the birds that were shot during the then increasingly popular duck hunting spot in both the fur and feather and water retrievals. This was because of their characteristics like being good swimmers, their waterproof coats, and very high intelligence levels.

Though it was developed to fill a need, it is one of the most popular pets in the world over two centuries later. It is now available across the globe as a pure breed or as a cross.

The English golden retriever is slightly heavier and shorter, has a blockier forehead, a slightly wider muzzle than the American type. It has a deeper chest, a shorter tail, and a less hairy and firmer coat which is predominantly light cream or any of the lighter shades of gold color.

This further became a key characteristic which enabled the golden retrievers to traverse the rugged and wet terrains to retrieve the birds. It is now a stunning spectacle of the golden retriever that every owner loves to brush and rub.

Perhaps its most endearing qualities include its warm temperament and versatile nature that have made it quite popular as a family pet and even assistance for the handicapped. Its relatively high intelligence has made it a top choice for a rescue dog, drug sniffing dog, tracking and hunting companion and of course an excellent show dog.

It has a knack for banging the obedience and conformance awards in several competitions. One of the kennel associations beautifully and accurately describes the English golden retriever in the ‘general appearance’ category in this manner;

“A symmetrical, powerful, active dog, sound and well put together, not clumsy or long in the leg, displaying a kindly expression and displaying a personality that is eager, alert and self-confident…”

I recently saw a UK kennel club cum British Small Animal Veterinary Association Scientific Committee report about the health of the English golden retrievers. I thought it was quite impressive that just shy of 20% of the golden retrievers had run out the clock or died of age related complications. Cancer took up the largest chunk of deaths, about 39% of all the deaths.

So it really is correct to say that every other golden retriever breeds are really a variation of the English golden retriever.

Kevin Taylor is a Golden Retriever Trainer and breeding enthusiast, and enjoys helping others get started in this amazing hobby by sharing information about the English golden retriever

His newest book,”The Ultimate Golden Retriever Training & Care Guide,” teaches Golden Retriever owners and trainers everything they need to know about training and caring for their Golden Retriever. http://www.goldenretrievercentre.com

Dog Leash Training – Start With The Correct Collar

March 27, 2011 by admin Leave a Comment

Leash Training

One of the best leash training methods created today does so that encourages the dog to develop awareness of its owner. To begin, you should use a sturdy, flat or rolled buckle collar made of leather or nylon.

Although popular among obedience trainers, slip collars – which tighten and release in response to tension – are not necessarily a good choice for teaching leash manners. Most dogs are overly excitable on the leash and often pull heedlessly against this type of collar, sometimes resulting in damage to the trachea. Though appropriate in the right hands, this collar is best left to those experienced in its use.

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The Hands Off Dog Training Method

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For the determined dog that already has a habit of pulling, the “headcollar” is the most effective training tool. This relatively recent innovation loops around the top of the dog’s neck and muzzle. The loops are attached by an additional strap on each side of the head and one below the muzzle. The leash attaches to the headhalter, the concept is based on the simple physical rule that where the head goes, the rest of the animal must follow.

The headcollar turns the dog toward the walker whenever tension is applied as it simultaneously tightens around the muzzle and back of the head, encouraging the dog to move in the direction of its owner to release the pressure.

Specifically designed to offer a gentle alternative to other collars, initial hands-on leash training instruction from a trainer who is familiar with its use is still a good idea in order to have the proper fit and more effective method.

For the standard size breed that is around six months or older, a prong, or pinch collar, may work best – and also for the adult dog that naturally pulls. Made to constrict in response to applied tension, then instantly expand again when tautness is released, this metal collar has large prongs that turn inward around the dog’s neck, creating what could be described as a blunted, teeth-like effect.

As with the headcollar, correct fit and size are important and are best judged by a trainer well educated in proper prong-collar usage. One that is too tight pinches the dog continually, which is counterproductive to training and cruel to the dog. One that is too loose loses its effectiveness.

A properly fitted prong collar should sit high on the dog’s neck, just below the ears. You should be able to slip your fingers underneath the collar when pressure is not applied, but it should not be so loose that it slips down around the trachea.

Despite its somewhat formidable appearance, the correct use of a prong collar simply gives the dog cause to stop and take notice of its owner. The prongs only pinch if pressure is applied, such as when the dog pulls. The pinch is in direct relationship to the amount of pressure applied.

The more pressure that is applied, the harder the pinch will be. Prong collars work well for leash training because the dog controls how much pressure it puts on its collar, and therefore, controls the amount of pinch it receives. This type of leash training allows the animal to avoid the pinch by maintaining slack in the lead.

The Chow Chow

February 28, 2011 by admin Leave a Comment

Chow Chow History and origin:

The Chow Chow is a member of the Spitz family that is known for over 2000 years. This Chinese breed was once used for guarding and hunting. His thick coat protected him in harsh weather and, unfortunately, provided clothing for the infamous Mongols, who also reportedly used the dog for food.

Description:
The Chow Chow stands 16 to 20 inches at the shoulder and weighs between 50 and 65 pounds. He is a powerful dog with a short, broad muzzle. The coat may be rough or smooth. Through coat is dense, straight, and coarse with a thick undercoat; he sheds profusely, particularly in early summer and needs daily brushing. The smooth coat is shorter and less dense, but sheds just as much. The color may be red, blue, black, fawn, or cream.

About the Chow Chow:

The Chow Chow is a beautiful dog who tends to be very loyal to only one or two people. Intelligent and intensely stubborn, the Chow is highly resistant to training, particularly when learning the “Down” command. Proud and moody, this dog likes to take the lead and have his own way. He does not like to be touched on the head, legs, or feet, even by his owner, and can be very difficult to groom. The Chow is extremely aloof with strangers and can be vicious, even to family members. He will not tolerate lots of people coming and going and prefers a consistent, predictable environment. He can be very dog-aggressive and has a high prey drive toward small animals. The Chow may bite a stranger who reaches out to pet him. Training must begin early and must be firm and persistent. This breed despises the very idea of submitting to anyone and may attempt to bite even his owner if so inclined. Socialization is crucial and will be the cornerstone of successful ownership of a Chow. Spoiling this breed will create a bossy, dangerous animal. As a Chow owner you will very likely have to deal with challenges to your authority, and you will probably face some aggression problems with this breed, no matter how effective a leader you are. The Chow needs regular exercise each day to stay fit. He is susceptible to hip dysplasia, entropion (a curling in of the eyelids), and skin disorders, and he does not do well in warm climates.

Feeding:
Recommended feeding for this breed is 1-1 ½ cans (13.3oz) of high-quality meaty product with biscuit added in equal part or 5 cupfuls of a complete dry food.

Ideal home:
This breed is not suitable to live in an apartment. A house with a well built-in fence and secluded yard is essential. If you lead a predictable, quiet life, an owner with strong leadership skills, and prefers an aloof, protective, serious dog, then this might be your breed. Chows are not advisable for those who have children. The elderly and the disabled may not be able to establish dominance with a Chow and should consider another breed. There should be no other small animals in the home with a Chow. Spoilers may create a dominant, dangerous animal that bites. Time to train and socialize the Chow Chow must be made available.

The Bulldog

February 22, 2011 by admin Leave a Comment

Bulldog History and origin:

Bulldogs were first used in England during the Middle Ages as baiters and fighters of bulls. They were originally bred to have courage and tenacity similar to the Mastiff. These early dogs were incredibly aggressive. It was not until the 19th century that the present personable temperament was achieved.

Description:

The Bulldog stands 13 to 15 inches at the shoulder and weighs between 40 and 60 pounds. He has a dense, powerful body, an extremely blunt muzzle, a pronounced under-bite, and a short, smooth shedding coat that requires regular brushing with a fairly stiff brush. The color may be brindle, white, fawn, red, or patched.

About the Bulldog:

The Bulldog is a courageous, intelligent, sweet, stubborn, incredibly strong dog that is filled with athletic enthusiasm. Despite his ferocious appearance, this breed has a docile temperament. He is extremely personable and loving, but because of his strength and enthusiasm, he is not always the best choice for the elderly or the disabled. Though normally not aggressive, he may resist training because he has a stubborn streak left over from his bull-fighting days. The Bulldog needs training from early on, particularly in learning not to pull on the leash, not to jump up on people, and in general to contain his exuberance. He is a fast-learner and loves taking part in games. He loves children and gets along well with strangers; just make sure he does not get overenthusiastic and knock your friends or your children with his bowling-ball body. Training should start form puppy hood and should be firm and persistent. You must gain adequate control of this eager, powerful, stubborn breed early in life. The Bulldog is susceptible to respiratory problems. He will snort and sneeze, spewing out undesirable secretions, usually while licking your face. The Bulldog also snores. In addition, the deep wrinkles on his face and forehead tend to get infected if not cleaned and powdered with cornstarch once a day. Some Bulldogs may need eyelid surgery if a condition known as entropion sets in, causing the eyelids to turn in so that the eyelashes rub against the cornea. This breed is also sensitive to extremes in temperature and can easily become overheated. Finally, because of his heavy frame, the Bulldog can develop structural problems and arthritis later in life. Do not take this dog jogging or let him get overweight.

Feeding:

Recommended feeding for this breed is 1 can (13.3oz) of high quality meaty product with biscuit added. 1 teaspoon of cod liver oil daily is recommended in winter.

Ideal home:

An apartment is fine provided this breed is exercised regularly. The owner of a Bulldog should be an active, capable leader who desires a sweet, personable, vigorous dog that is good with family and friends. Children are fine as long as no roughhousing is allowed. The elderly and the disabled may have difficulty dealing with this breed’s high level of enthusiasm; the Bulldog can be a very physical animal and, in his eagerness to play, may knock his owner down and cause an injury. Time to train, exercise, and socialize thie Bulldog is important.

The Boxer

February 20, 2011 by admin Leave a Comment

History and origin of The Boxer:

This breed can be traced to the old holding dogs of Mollossus or Mastiff types. Perfected in Germany during the 19th century, the Boxer was developed by crossing Mastiff, Bulldog, and terrier bloodlines and was once used for fighting and bull baiting. Similar to the Bulldog, his jaw is undershot, a trait common in bull-baiters. Today’s Boxers do not have the fierce temperament of the earlier dogs.

Description:
The Boxer stands 21 to 25 inches at the shoulder and weighs 55 to 75 pounds. Strong and thickly muscled, he has a short muzzle, a docked tail, and cropped or uncropped ears. The shedding coat is short, stiff, somewhat prickly to the touch, and of very low maintenance, requiring only an occasional brushing. His color may be brindle with white or fawn with white.

About The Boxer

The Boxer is a brave, loyal, clownish dog who loves children and makes a good guard dog. He is a friendly, headstrong, high-energy breed that is very affectionate but easily distracted. A busy, curious breed, the Boxer needs firm, precise obedience training from an early age in order to contain his boundless energy, but the training should not be overbearing or rushed. He can be suspicious of strangers and, in some cases, may be dog- or people-aggressive, especially the male. Daily exercise is important. This dog makes an excellent jogging partner and agility dog. The Boxer is normally good with children, but care must be taken that this strong breed does not knock down and hurt a child. Roughhousing, wrestling, and chasing should not be allowed. He is a powerful, exuberant dog who tends to wag his whole body when pleased. The Boxer has little cushioning on his body and needs a blanket or bed to lie on. He has no body fat and therefore gets cold easily and does not do well in cold climates. He is also prone to respiratory problems, is a horrendous snorer and sneezer, and can be flatulent. This breed is susceptible to heart problems and bloat and normally lives only ten to twelve years.

Feeding:
Recommended feeding for the Boxer is 1 ½ – 2 ½ cans (13.3oz) of a branded meaty product with biscuit added in same amount or 5 cupfuls of a complete, dry food.

Ideal home:
A house with a fenced yard is important. The owner of a Boxer should be an active, strong, competent leader who has the time and patience to work, socialize, and exercise this energetic, often stubborn breed. Children are okay provided no roughhousing occurs. Persons who are very easygoing or slow-moving should avoid this breed, as should those who are nervous, cautious, or overbearing. The elderly and the disabled may have a hard time controlling the Boxer and may create a dominant dog that lacks confidence.

The Bernese Mountain Dog

February 12, 2011 by admin Leave a Comment

History and origin of the Bernese Mountain Dog:

Originated in Switzerland, the Bernese Mountain Dog was bred for herding, guarding, drafting, and droving. His large, sturdy frame and long coat allowed him to perform in cold mountainous environments.

Description:

The Bernese Mountain Dog stands 23 to 27.5 inches at the shoulder and weighs between 70 and 100 pounds. He is a large breed and is similar to the Golden Retriever in structure, only heavier and bigger-boned. The shedding coat is medium-long, wavy, glossy, and thick and requires regular brushing to keep it in good condition. The Bernese is tricolored, primarily black with rust and white markings on the chest, muzzle, feet, and forehead.

About the Bernese Mountain Dog:

This large, beautiful, athletic dog is easily trained and makes a great watchdog and a good family pet. Though playful and gregarious as a pup, he tends to become more reserved and guarded as he matures. He is normally affectionate to his owner, but can be very suspicious of strangers. Some are very timid to the point of being phobic. This potential for extreme shyness can lead to a fear-based aggression that is difficult to modify. This breed also possesses a dominant, head-strong temperament. Stubbornness normally calls for a firm, consistent training technique, but many Bernese, particularly the females, can slip into a panicky mind-set if pushed, sometimes resulting in a bite. This tendency is usually a result of poor breeding practices, and may not be reversible.

A well bred Bernese Mountain Dog is trainable, but patience and precision are crucial. The Bernese needs daily exercise and is happier in a rural environment. Because of the potential for aggression, this breed is not recommended for families with children. Early socialization is important from day one, as well as handling and grooming. The Bernese Mountain Dog lives only ten to twelve years and can suffer from hip dysplasia and bloat. Anyone interested in this breed should visit numerous breeders and closely observe the parents and litter mates.

Feeding:

Recommended feeding for this breed is 1 ½ – 2 ½ cans (13.3oz) of high-quality meaty product with biscuit added in equal part or 5 cupfuls of a complete, dry dog food.