Edie MacKenzie

Edie MacKenzie is a published author, traveler, dog lover, and tortoise enthusiast. Passionate about what she does, her books provide peopel a firm grounding in the dog breed and their unique characteristics with a nice touch of humor.

The Airedale

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Airedale History and origin:

Developed by crossing old English black and tan terrier with Otterhound bloodlines, the Airedale was first used in 19th century England for big game hunting, vermin killing, and police and military work. The breed is named after the valley of Aire in Yorkshire.

Description:

The tallest of the terriers, the Airedale stands 22 to 23 inches at the shoulder and weighing between 50 and 60 pounds. He has a strong, muscular, sturdy body and a wiry, non-shedding coat that requires daily grooming with a stiff brush and periodic clipping. Show dogs, however, need hand-stripping, a process that involves pulling dead hair out by hand to preserve the luster and hard texture of the coat. Color is normally black-and-tan, with some red and, less often, white markings.

About the Airedale:

This beautiful, strong, athletic breed exhibits all the tenacity and determination of a terrier, only in a larger package. The Airedale is stubborn and is often difficult to train. He learns slowly, so do not expect one to pick up on things as quickly as a German Shepherd or a Border Collie. The Airedale is active, sometimes flighty, and often sensitive to the demands of training. If an Airedale resists learning a certain command, the last thing you should do is get firmer with the dog. His resistance will only increase and could accelerate into panic. He should not be spoiled, either; a concise, incremental training technique needs to be implemented from puppy hood. Though affectionate with his owners, the Airedale tends to be suspicious of strangers and can show aggression toward people and dogs. He makes a great watchdog because of his territorial instinct. The Airedale cannot always discriminate between a friend and a stranger, however, and he may give your friends and your children’s friends a hard time. This breed is not recommended for families with young children. Early obedience training and lots of socialization with people and other dogs from an early age is mandatory.

Feeding Your Airedale

Recommended feeding for the Airedale is at least 1-1 ½ cans (13.3oz) of high-quality dog food or the fresh meat equivalent everyday with biscuit added.

Ideal home:

A house with a fenced yard is essential for this breed. The owner of an Airedale should be a strong, confident leader who combines firm discipline with patience and precision. Persons considering this breed should desire a dog that has an active, tenacious temperament and is reserved with strangers. Nervous persons will create a pushy, obnoxious dog that lacks confidence. Overbearing types may bring out fear-aggressive behavior. The Airedale needs daily exercise and makes a good jogging partner because of his athletic physique. If left alone for long periods, he might become destructive and noisy. This breed has a high prey drive, so be careful around small animals. He may not tolerate the hectic, unpredictable behavior of young children. Older children are okay, provided they can gain the animal’s respect by working him in obedience. The elderly and the disabled may have trouble controlling this energetic, driven Airedale.

The Alaskan Malamute

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History and origin: The Alaskan Malamute is named after a native tribe called the “Mahlemuts.”  He is closely related to other Spitz-types such as the Samoyed and has been used as a sled dog.  Bred for strength, endurance, and independence, he has the ability to tolerate extremely low temperatures.  Today the Alaskan Malamute is used in sled-pulling competitions, some being able to pull a sled weighing close to a ton.

Description: The Alaskan Malamute stands 23 to 26 inches at the shoulder and usually weighs 75 to 125 pounds, while some are even larger.  He is thick-boned and has a large, muscular body.  The weather-resistant coat is thick, heavy, and of medium length.  The undercoat is dense and insulative.  He sheds abundantly year- round, particularly in early summer.  Regular brushing will keep his coat in good condition.  The color may be black-and-white with an off-white undercoat, red-and-white, or gray-and-white with an off-white undercoat.

About the breed: This is a sociable, affectionate, fast, strong, intelligent, and powerful breed who is always friendly and good-natured but somewhat stubborn. Usually good with children , the Alaskan Malamute does not make a good watchdog, but he does have a high prey drive and will show aggression toward other dogs.  He can be impetuous, dominant, and challenging, and is not the most cooperative breed with regard to obedience training.

Early training is important due to the breed’s size, level of dominance, and aggression toward animals.  The “Come” command is the most difficult to teach a Malamute because of his independent, free-thinking nature, though the females tend to be less dominant and aggressive.  A firm, consistent training technique must be used with this sometimes resistant breed.

He tends to be quite vocal and can be very destructive if not exercised daily.  Though he is friendly, keep in mind that this large breed can knock over and hurt a child during play.  No roughhousing or chase games should be tolerated. The Malamute loves to dig and will create holes all over your yard.  A large kennel with a concrete floor will eliminate this problem.

This breed can be left outside during even the coldest winter.  Although they are almost always good-natured, there are a few cases of aggression toward people with this breed, particularly from the males.  Once this behavior occurs, it is very difficult to modify and usually results in the destruction of the animal.

The Alaskan Malamute lives for only ten to twelve years and can suffer from hip dysplasia, shoulder problems, and bloat.  He loves the cold and will suffer in warmer climates.  He needs exercise, but should not be run long distances due to his weight and susceptibility to hip and shoulder problems.  This breed eats large amounts of food and can develop diarrhea if the diet is changed too rapidly.

Altering can lengthen the  life of an Alaskan Malamute and help prevent aggression and other behavioral problems.

Feeding: Recommended feeding for this breed is 1 ½ – 2 ½ cans (13.3oz) of high-quality meaty product with biscuit added in equal part or 5 cupfuls of a complete, dry dog food.

Ideal home: This big, independent breed needs a  house with a fenced yard or kennel.  He needs a firm, consistent leader who is confident and physically able to deal with a powerful breed.   Training should begin early and should include daily socialization, handling, and grooming.  Spoiling, cautious, and overbearing persons should avoid the Alaskan Malamute, as should the elderly and the disabled.

Dog Training: Correct Heel Methods (4)

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Dog Training 101

When it comes to obedience dog training, there should be no “half-way action” accepted. In other words, it’s all or nothing from your dog.

And a crooked sit must be considered as something less than your dog giving  his full potential.

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The Hands Off Dog Training Method

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Not only does it look shabby, but it also prevents the dog from accomplishing his full measure of discipline and character. You can prevent your dog from developing the bad habit of crooked sits simply by using your free left hand while heeling.

As you prepare to stop during a walk, make sure that your left hand is in a position to place on the dog’s rear in such a way as to prevent him from moving around in front of you after you have come to a complete stop. If your dog succeeds in sitting in a crooked way, hold back the praise until you have straightened his sit. As your left hand drops to his rear, keep your left thumb pointing toward your left leg. This will ensure that you do not accidentally place your dog in a crooked sit.

You do not have to push down heavily on your dog’s rear. You need to simply press lightly to help guide him into the proper sit position. It is more the right hand pulling the leash upward than the amount of pressure on the dog’s rear that will place him easily and quickly in the proper sitting position. Putting heavy pressure on your dog’s rear may stimulate him to resist, which is an unwanted action.

In these learning steps, the less resistance you have, the better off it will be, both for you and your dog. Also keep in mind the importance of a positive attitude.

Recap Of The First 10 Days Of Correct Heel Dog Training

Your first ten days of obedience training should consist of proper leash introduction, getting your dog to walk confidently and happy. This is achieved without lagging or straining as he walks at your left side in the response to the command “Heel”. The first ten days of obedience dog training also consists of the introduction of the command “Sit” in which you place the dog in the sitting position each time you stop.

Once you are confident about placing your dog in the sitting position, which took one full week, you are now ready to bring your dog to a higher level of discipline, intelligence, and response.

You must decide to never place your pet in the sitting position again. You have spent one full week showing him exactly what sit means, and it only takes four days for the average house dog to learn the average thing.

Now, it’s time during your next dog training session to show your dog that he must do it for himself and that you will not be leading him by the hand all of the time.

Dog Training: Correct Heel Methods (4)

by Leave a Comment

When it comes to obedience dog training, there should be no “half-way action” accepted. In other words, it’s all or nothing from your dog. And a crooked sit must be considered as something less than your dog giving  his full potential.

Not only does it look shabby, but it also prevents the dog from accomplishing his full measure of discipline and character. You can prevent your dog from developing the bad habit of crooked sits simply by using your free left hand while heeling.

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Click Here Now – -and watch Chet’s Free Dog Training Video.

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As you prepare to stop during a walk, make sure that your left hand is in a position to place on the dog’s rear in such a way as to prevent him from moving around in front of you after you have come to a complete stop. If your dog succeeds in sitting in a crooked way, hold back the praise until you have straightened his sit. As your left hand drops to his rear, keep your left thumb pointing toward your left leg. This will ensure that you do not accidentally place your dog in a crooked sit.

You do not have to push down heavily on your dog’s rear. You need to simply press lightly to help guide him into the proper sit position. It is more the right hand pulling the leash upward than the amount of pressure on the dog’s rear that will place him easily and quickly in the proper sitting position. Putting heavy pressure on your dog’s rear may stimulate him to resist, which is an unwanted action.

In these learning steps, the less resistance you have, the better off it will be, both for you and your dog. Also keep in mind the importance of a positive attitude.

Recap Of The First 10 Days Of Correct Heel Dog Training

Your first ten days of obedience dog training should consist of proper leash introduction, getting your dog to walk confidently and happy. This is achieved without lagging or straining as he walks at your left side in the response to the command “Heel”. The first ten days of obedience training also consists of the introduction of the command “Sit” in which you place the dog in the sitting position each time you stop.

Once you are confident about placing your dog in the sitting position, which took one full week, you are now ready to bring your dog to a higher level of discipline, intelligence, and response.

You must decide to never place your pet in the sitting position again. You have spent one full week showing him exactly what sit means, and it only takes four days for the average house dog to learn the average thing.

Now, it’s time to show your dog that he must do it for himself and that you will not be leading him by the hand all of the time when dog training.

Is Carsickness A Problem For Your Dog?

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Some puppies get carsick just the same as many small children do. If you depend on a car for most of your transportation, you will want to help your puppy overcome carsickness as quickly and easily as possible. You can do a number of things to help your puppy avoid or overcome carsickness.

From the start, help your puppy form a positive association with the car. Without starting the engine, sit in the car with your puppy on your lap for a few minutes every day. Praise and pet your pup. After a week of this, start the motor. Place your pup on the seat next to you. Pet and praise him, making the experience agreeable. After a week of repeating this once a day, get a friend or relative to go in the car with you for a daily ride. Be sure that your puppy has an empty stomach and has had the chance to eliminate before getting into the car. Have your helper sit the dog on his or her lap. The helper must not allow the pup to squirm and wiggle around.

Take a short ride around the block. Each week increase slightly the distance that you travel. (One-week intervals for each of these steps are not cast in stone. Shorten or lengthen the time depending on your pup’s reaction.) Be sure that when you ride with your puppy, you have someone in the car to help control him. If that’s not possible, put the puppy in a crate in the car.

Do not let your puppy ride on the driver’s lap or crawl under his or her legs. This can become a bad habit and is very dangerous. Once your puppy begins obedience training and understands to lie down and stay, employ this exercise in the car when traveling. Associate trips in the car with fun. Every car ride should not end up at the veterinarian, groomer, or boarding kennel. Use the car to take your dog to the beach, park, or woods.

Most puppies, like most children, outgrow carsickness. In the interim, doing the right things can minimize messes, limit nervousness, and shorten the time it takes for your dog to learn that car rides can be a lot of fun. If none of the above steps seems to help, contact your veterinarian. He or she can provide medical solutions, such as mild tranquilizers, that will help avert sickness when the dog must travel in the car.

The First Step To Successful Dog Training

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As a dog owner, what do you really need to know to train your dog? Gathering information and preparing to train your dog follows some reasonable steps. The first phase is the most often skipped and is the most crucial. A mirror test of sorts. How good is your relationship with your dog? The idea is that it’s better to have a good owner-dog bond first before you let your dog undergo obedience training.

The point is, if you already have a good bond, that bond will be even stronger after the training. And maybe the training will be easier since you may not undergo a lot of frustrations compared to owners who aren’t bonded with their dogs.

The thing is, if you have not established an attachment with your own dog, training him to obey is not going to be as smooth compared to if you had a good bond. You could get annoyed easily when your dog fails to accomplish tasks. You may not be as easily annoyed if you and your dog had been through a lot. That dog might not even want to cooperate. To address this noncompliance, try breaking the tasks into small and more manageable tasks.

This way, despite the absence of that owner-dog bond, the chances of your dog accomplishing the smaller tasks will be easier. Suppose you want you dog to stop barking on command. You can do this and silence him at will. When you can do this you can even make him bark on your order. This means you need to start with a small objective in the beginning, and start with easy commands.

The most common complaint against pets, dogs in particular, is that they chew up on the furniture, bite into and drag objects, and munch into them as though they were baby tethers. To address this behavior, you could purchase for your dog some toys he can play with, so his attention will be on those toys instead of things to bite in your household. You need to limit these toys to four or five. More toys will just distract him and he’ll lose interest. To start training, you can test if you can make you dog bite and pick up his chewing toys on your orders. Ask him to bring it to you. Throw it far again. Ask him to bring it back.

But if you just got your dog, chances are you don’t know his behavior much. That’s the first thing, to observe his behavior, especially those that will be problematic for you. List those behaviors that pose problems and try to address them one at a time. If your dog loves munching on household things, you have to and you can change this. If your dog barks incessantly, you can change this. But you really have to allot some time to observe his behavior and bond with him. If he bonds with you, he’ll be motivated to please you, and you’ll have more patience in training him.

Increase the happy years of your dog by checking out my free e-book. In it I reveal all the secrets I’ve used to develop a happy, healthier dog. Visit Dr. Alfonso’s dog training blog right now…

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